My ABF Rebuild thread...THE NOOB WAY-UPDATED JULY (no 56k)

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My ABF Rebuild thread...THE NOOB WAY-UPDATED JULY (no 56k)

Postby bru-tom » Fri Jan 15, 2010 8:48 am

Hey guys, its update time…

I managed to source another block from a friend, I will be getting it within the next week or so, I will be swapping all my internals over to the new one.

block stripped, well almost:

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before i touched the head, after removing the inlet mani:

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So I stripped the tappet cover off, what a mission as the countersunk nut was rusted from the water sitting in the hole for so long, I had to drill the mofo out carefully, what a mission!!

What was left of the stud:

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this is what the internals looked like

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cams code

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being a noob, i marked everything hahaha, just to make sure if it may help me out at a later stage, i will be replacing the cam chain, but market it anyway- funny, the original part is Febi?

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oh, where can i get another distributor thing? mine is cracked as you can see:

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i removed my first cam cap :grin:

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any advice on removing these? as you can see, mine are really rusted and i have soaked them in penetrating lube! the problem is that my ratchet/spanner slips on the nut due to the rust! :bang: is it a costly thing to have the studs replaced? i may have to grind the nuts off before sending it away to 8V performance?

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cams out, do they still look good to you experienced guys?

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lifters still look good?:

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and a mind fcuking shot lol

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soooo...i took the plunge and removed the head bolts in order, bit by bit until they all came out:

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whooped off the head :grin: pistons look good

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this little baby, no. 4 had some extra carbon on, any need for concern?

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there was some oil that came out, duno if it came from the head? is this normal, only in two places though;

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hone marks:

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the valves:

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im posting one pic of the combustion chamber, they were all pretty much the same:

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Last edited by bru-tom on Fri Jul 02, 2010 12:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: My ABF Rebuild thread...THE NOOB WAY (no 56k)

Postby SHAUN » Fri Jan 15, 2010 8:53 am

The exhaust studs on the head are cheap, im sure sarel can replace them for you. You need the leave the cams in the head when sending it to sarel, he can also replace the cam chain for you.
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Re: My ABF Rebuild thread...THE NOOB WAY (no 56k)

Postby bru-tom » Fri Jan 15, 2010 8:58 am

SHAUN wrote:The exhaust studs on the head are cheap, im sure sarel can replace them for you. You need the leave the cams in the head when sending it to sarel, he can also replace the cam chain for you.


thanks Shaun! do i need to torque them up again? i dont want them to snap with the transporting...
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Re: My ABF Rebuild thread...THE NOOB WAY (no 56k)

Postby SHAUN » Fri Jan 15, 2010 9:00 am

No need to torque them up, just fit them back without the chain and ask sarel to fit a new chain for you, he likes to check all the clearances with the cams fitted once the job is done to make sure everything is 100%.
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Re: My ABF Rebuild thread...THE NOOB WAY (no 56k)

Postby panic-mechanic » Fri Jan 15, 2010 9:04 am

Just leave it as it is - He's got to take it apart to do the work anyway. Just make sure you send all the bits with so he can assemble it again.
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Re: My ABF Rebuild thread...THE NOOB WAY (no 56k)

Postby VWicked » Fri Jan 15, 2010 9:10 am

Howsit Bru-tom

With those exhaust studs, try using a vice grip to open them or grind them off or try knocking another smaller socket over it. Studs are relatively easy to replace. You have your work cut out. Good luck
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Re: My ABF Rebuild thread...THE NOOB WAY (no 56k)

Postby bru-tom » Fri Jan 15, 2010 9:17 am

SHAUN wrote:No need to torque them up, just fit them back without the chain and ask sarel to fit a new chain for you, he likes to check all the clearances with the cams fitted once the job is done to make sure everything is 100%.



that's what i like to hear! im looking more and more forward to spending 3k lol :shock: :lol:

panic-mechanic wrote:Just leave it as it is - He's got to take it apart to do the work anyway. Just make sure you send all the bits with so he can assemble it again.


thanks Stephan...i will leave it as is and leave the cams, etc in the head with the caps finger tightened...must i also send the distributor and cam pulley?

VWicked wrote:Howsit Bru-tom

With those exhaust studs, try using a vice grip to open them or grind them off or try knocking another smaller socket over it. Studs are relatively easy to replace. You have your work cut out. Good luck


thanks dude, i dont think i am going to wreck another socket lol, broke an el' cheapo trying to get an allen cap screw out of the breaker thing on the block already :bang:
i like the grinding route at this stage hahaha :wink:
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Re: My ABF Rebuild thread...THE NOOB WAY (no 56k)

Postby SHAUN » Fri Jan 15, 2010 9:21 am

bru-tom wrote:thanks Stephan...i will leave it as is and leave the cams, etc in the head with the caps finger tightened...must i also send the distributor and cam pulley?

Cam pulley yes, dizzy now.

You only doing the head? i had my inlet manifold and throttle body done by sarel aswell.
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Re: My ABF Rebuild thread...THE NOOB WAY (no 56k)

Postby bru-tom » Fri Jan 15, 2010 9:25 am

SHAUN wrote:
bru-tom wrote:thanks Stephan...i will leave it as is and leave the cams, etc in the head with the caps finger tightened...must i also send the distributor and cam pulley?

Cam pulley yes, dizzy now.

You only doing the head? i had my inlet manifold and throttle body done by sarel aswell.


thanks man...

i think i must send the mani, only the bottom part right? i will be running diktator, can i use my OBD2 with it? iv had it for a long time already, pointless to let it go to waste :wink:
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Re: My ABF Rebuild thread...THE NOOB WAY (no 56k)

Postby Killerwatt » Fri Jan 15, 2010 10:45 am

Diy is bestest bru. Goodluck with the build.

Send the whole manifold for polishing. As for that dizzy cap im pretty sure they are the same for all the 16v heads so just look around. The obd2 tb will work but if you not running mp9 theres no need stock one will be fine.
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Re: My ABF Rebuild thread...THE NOOB WAY (no 56k)

Postby panic-mechanic » Fri Jan 15, 2010 12:27 pm

As for that dizzy cap im pretty sure they are the same for all the 16v heads so just look around

Oops - sorry no - The last bearing of the cam runs on the one side of that cap and cylinder heads are individually line bored so they are unique to each head. You can find another but then you have the have all the caps line bored.
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Re: My ABF Rebuild thread...THE NOOB WAY (no 56k)

Postby Killerwatt » Fri Jan 15, 2010 1:20 pm

Damn. Sorry bro wasnt thinking right. I got lost in thought by wat colour the dizzy seal was. Panic is right if you replace you need to line bore.
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Re: My ABF Rebuild thread...THE NOOB WAY (no 56k)

Postby bru-tom » Mon Jan 18, 2010 8:46 am

Killerwatt wrote:Diy is bestest bru. Goodluck with the build.

Send the whole manifold for polishing. As for that dizzy cap im pretty sure they are the same for all the 16v heads so just look around. The obd2 tb will work but if you not running mp9 theres no need stock one will be fine.


thanks man, i will and am doing my bestest :grin:

the whole manifold? top and bottom? but can i use the obd2 anyway?

panic-mechanic wrote:
As for that dizzy cap im pretty sure they are the same for all the 16v heads so just look around

Oops - sorry no - The last bearing of the cam runs on the one side of that cap and cylinder heads are individually line bored so they are unique to each head. You can find another but then you have the have all the caps line bored.


what does this mean exactly Stephan?

is the pic below the line bore in the cap? or is it the slit in the end of the cam that the dizzy runs off?

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Re: My ABF Rebuild thread...THE NOOB WAY (no 56k)

Postby panic-mechanic » Mon Jan 18, 2010 8:59 am

Line boring is an engineering process where you make a straight perfectly aligned hole through an item.
So in the factory after a head is cast they first of all engineer a flat surface on the back side of the head. Then they will add the cam caps in rough cast to the top. Then they take a line bore machine and cut the holes for the cam through the head and the caps. This is done to each head and the position might vary very slightly from one machine to another. If you now take a cap off another head and install it on your head the hole through which the cam runs that basically is also the bearing surfaces might be very slightly misaligned. If you now tighten theis cap it will eaither crack the cap or bite the cam. if you manage to turn the cam it might seize after a while on that bearing surface. So now if you find another cap that didn't belong on that head you have to take the head and caps to an engineering shop - they will skim a small area off the bottom of all thecaps - this now makes the hole to small and slightly oval. They then repeat the line boring process which opens all the holes perfectly and now the caps and cam will fit again perfectly.
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Re: My ABF Rebuild thread...THE NOOB WAY (no 56k)

Postby bru-tom » Mon Jan 18, 2010 9:22 am

panic-mechanic wrote:Line boring is an engineering process where you make a straight perfectly aligned hole through an item.
So in the factory after a head is cast they first of all engineer a flat surface on the back side of the head. Then they will add the cam caps in rough cast to the top. Then they take a line bore machine and cut the holes for the cam through the head and the caps. This is done to each head and the position might vary very slightly from one machine to another. If you now take a cap off another head and install it on your head the hole through which the cam runs that basically is also the bearing surfaces might be very slightly misaligned. If you now tighten theis cap it will eaither crack the cap or bite the cam. if you manage to turn the cam it might seize after a while on that bearing surface. So now if you find another cap that didn't belong on that head you have to take the head and caps to an engineering shop - they will skim a small area off the bottom of all thecaps - this now makes the hole to small and slightly oval. They then repeat the line boring process which opens all the holes perfectly and now the caps and cam will fit again perfectly.


thank you kindly Stephan, always willing to share your knowledge! :hi: :wink:

i think, what i should do is, have it alli welded,its not completely snapped off, just cracked...

see, once again:

Image

hopefully if done quickly and spot on, it wont heat up the entire thing too much that will make it warp the bearing...
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Re: My ABF Rebuild thread...THE NOOB WAY (no 56k)

Postby bru-tom » Fri Jul 02, 2010 12:08 pm

ok, engine update...

got my head back after some flow and 3 angle valve work, dont know what i should be looking for to see if its been done great or not, maybe you guys can help me with that :wink:

pics of head:

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lower intake, port matched and flowed:

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and the TB:

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some OEM parts that i wouldn't trust buying from anyone else but agents:

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new INA lifters, VR head gasket and ACL Race big-ends:

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random:

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still waiting for a tow gasket/seal set and bottom end seal set, ACL mains and Cofap rings + waterpump

block is getting worked and ballanced as we speak... and ARP rod bolts coming soon too

bought an OEM 16v oilpump from Meox (thanks Liam)

things are coming together nicely now :drool:
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Re: My ABF Rebuild thread...THE NOOB WAY (no 56k)

Postby bru-tom » Fri Jul 02, 2010 12:10 pm

I have all my bits to start the assembly process, just have to get the block painted and clearances checked.

so my blocks old sleeves were hacked out, new ones fitted to standard size. i was very nervous to do the whole re-sleeve thing, but i dont have 6k for 20thou oversized ABF pistons laying around lol:

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they were bored and honed, block had a slight skim:

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new brass plugs to go in here:

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crank has been polished:

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and pistons cleaned up nicely:

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till next time :wink:
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Re: My ABF Rebuild thread...THE NOOB WAY (no 56k)

Postby bru-tom » Fri Jul 02, 2010 12:11 pm

ok, so after a long wait, my block is ready to go home! :cool: now for the rest of the bits to be assembled onto the sub assy :wink:

so my crank was polished and ballanced:

Image

rods and pistons weighed and ballanced, also fitted ARP rod bolts :grin:

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test fitted mains and big ends to check tollerences, everything measured perfect! then came fitting crank and torquing everything up:

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lightened and ballanced intermediate shaft :grin:

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first we checked the clearance where the rings come together to make sure they are all the same- 0.25mm

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then came fitting cofap rings:

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compressing rings:

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one more to do:

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fitting piston into cylinder:

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and voila!

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all big ends torqued up to spec with ARP special lube- thanks Trippy!!!!! :hi:

we also measured the deck height of the piston on each cylinder and they all measure 0.55mm above the surface of the block! awesome compression here we come! :driving:

before and after pics:

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putting brass welsh plugs in, got another mod or two to do before she leaves engineering, then im good to go :wink:

thats all for now :hi:
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Re: My ABF Rebuild thread...THE NOOB WAY-UPDATED JULY (no 56

Postby UDC » Fri Jul 02, 2010 12:23 pm

wow, looking good bruce, well done :cool:
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Re: My ABF Rebuild thread...THE NOOB WAY (no 56k)

Postby trippy » Fri Jul 02, 2010 12:29 pm

bru-tom wrote:
all big ends torqued up to spec with ARP special lube- thanks Trippy!!!!! :hi:


Any time bud :hi:
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Re: My ABF Rebuild thread...THE NOOB WAY-UPDATED JULY (no 56

Postby SHAUN » Fri Jul 02, 2010 12:31 pm

Awesome work bud.
She is gonna be wicked when done :evil:
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Re: My ABF Rebuild thread...THE NOOB WAY-UPDATED JULY (no 56

Postby Velofox » Fri Jul 02, 2010 2:12 pm

any issues with installing the ford bolts into the VW rods?
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Re: My ABF Rebuild thread...THE NOOB WAY-UPDATED JULY (no 56

Postby bru-tom » Fri Jul 02, 2010 2:24 pm

Thanks guys,my engineers have done awesome work!

Jerm, the heads need to be machined a tad to fit,but otherwise,no probs
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Re: My ABF Rebuild thread...THE NOOB WAY-UPDATED JULY (no 56

Postby Velofox » Fri Jul 02, 2010 2:25 pm

bru-tom wrote:Thanks guys,my engineers have done awesome work!

Jerm, the heads need to be machined a tad to fit,but otherwise,no probs


:cool:
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Re: My ABF Rebuild thread...THE NOOB WAY-UPDATED JULY (no 56

Postby CRASH_IT » Fri Jul 02, 2010 2:44 pm

What was wrong wit your original block that you had to get another block?

If you not going to use the obd2 throttle mind selling it? :wink:

She is going to run so sweetly good job :drool:
CURRENT RIDE
2013 VW transporter 2.0TDI
2007 Audi S3

EX
- 2014 Ford Fiesta ST
- 1993 1.8i CITI MP9 98HP 147NM @ KAR
NOW:2.0 ABF 117HP 158NM @Panics on XMS (SOLD)SNIFF
http://www.vwclub.co.za/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=108203
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