Touran 2.0 TDi Issues

[J_J]

Quick background, I had an ECU failure and had it repaired Feb 2019 (used unit but re-programmed). Car was driving fine untill Sep 2019 when the same symptoms appear that lead to the previous ECU Failure. The car was parked and January 2020 handed the ECU in again at ECU Express for diagnosis. The result ECU faulty need repairs. At that stage I did not have the cash and the repair was placed on hold untill end Feb. Decided that I will have a second opinion and handed in the unit at Auto ECU, result faulty need repair. Decided that I will use them as their quote was way cheaper than ECU Express.
Fetched the unit a few days just before the lockdown. Fitted the unit, the car started fine but after a minute it died with flashing glow plug light and enigine fault display. Did a scan with VCDS and a few faults appear. Asked on another forum what the issue might be and the reply was a possible wiring fault. So the hard lockdown was introduced and the car was standing again. Last week made an appointment with the Auto Electrician and the car was towed for diagnosis. Fetched the car after I was informed that the battery is faulty and can not handle the load, hence the car dying and flashing glow plug light. Car drove fine about 8km's back home, later when we drove it again after 3 km's it died, but started gain. Drove it for another 1km to shop and when tried to start, the car will start but will die immediately with the flashing glow plug light and engine fault warning. Towed the car back home. Took the battery out and went to battery center where I was informed that the battery was not fully charged but the guy said that it could not be the cause of the car dying, but will put it charge and do a load testing.

Here is a summary of the fault codes:

01-Engine -- Status: Sporadic communication error 1000
03-ABS Brakes -- Status: Malfunction 0010 3 Faults
00668 - Supply Voltage Terminal 30 - 008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
01314 - Engine Control Module - 013 - Check DTC Memory - Intermittent
01314 - Engine Control Module - 004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent
08-Auto HVAC -- Status: Malfunction 0010 1 Fault (Aircon Gas Issue?)
00229 - Refrigerant Pressure - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded
09-Cent. Elect. -- Status: Malfunction 0010 3 Faults
01207 - Control Module for Auxiliary Heater (J364) - 004 - No Signal/Communication
01314 - Engine Control Module - 004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent
01049 - Supply Voltage Term 50 - 006 - Short to Plus - Intermittent
17-Instruments -- Status: Malfunction 0010 2 Faults
00562 - Sensor for Oil Level/Temperature (G266) - 010 - Open or Short to Plus (Do know about this issue)
01314 - Engine Control Module - 004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent
19-CAN Gateway -- Status: Malfunction 0010 2 Faults
01207 - Control Module for Auxiliary Heater (J364) - 004 - No Signal/Communication
01314 - Engine Control Module - 004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent
42-Door Elect, Driver -- Status: Malfunction 0010
00100 - Drivers Interior Locking Button (E308) - 008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
00120 - Outside Warning Light/Door exit Light Driver Side - 012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit (Blown bulb in door)
44-Steering Assist -- Status: Malfunction 0010 2 Faults
01314 - Engine Control Module - 004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent
00446 - Function Limitation due to Under-Voltage - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
46-Central Conv. -- Status: Malfunction 0010 2 Faults
01134 - Alarm Horn (H12) - 004 - No Signal/Communication
00122 - Outside Warning Light/Door exit Light; Rear Left - 009 - Open or Short to Ground (Blown bulb in door)

Apologies for the long post.
Any ideas or is there a place/person who knows these VW engines that could provide some more insight. Krugersdorp area

[warickwrx]

That is quite a list of codes you have there.
Are you the original owner of the vehicle and what is the mileage ?
The reason for asking is that if vehicle has had mechanical repairs / maintenance or was evolved in accident its possible engine harness could be damaged. Could also be drain circuits causing your battery to slowly discharge.

[J_J]

@Warickwrx thanks for the reply.
Bough the car in 2006 and currently stands on 375000 km's, never had a major accident that needed repairs.
Regarding your remark on the battery; the one rear parkassist sensor got damaged when someone reversed into me but the paint was intact so never bother to involve insurance and pay a huge exess sum at that time for the repairs as the exess would've been the same as the damage, this was about 4 years ago never had any issues untill about 2 years ago when the ECU issues started to appear.

[warickwrx]

Did they give you a reason or the exact cause for the failure of your original ECU. In other words what was exactly wrong with it that warranted it being replaced.

[J_J]

No I never asked and they never informed me. I think I have the original report in my mailbox. It is rather strange for two ECU Failures in 6 months.

[warickwrx]

Yea it is rather strange. Would be handy to know their exact prognosis of failure.

[Jetta2]

After reading about the fault codes on RossTech wiki, one thing in common with all those fault codes is wiring issues, connector issues, alternator issues and battery issues.
Somewhere a few wires must be broken or connectors are partially plugged in or damaged or the alternator is FUBAR.

Do yourself a favour and check here for yourself: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.ph ... 1#mw-pages


I suggest you take it to someone like Panic (based in Benoni), so your car can be checked out by someone who actually knows what they are talking about.

I think you were taken for a ride with the "ECU needs replacing" story.