hey guys i have a 1.8 8v block and a kr 16v heads with 20thou oversized pistons. the car hadntnt started yet all is back to. but my problem im having is cylinder one is missing i have put new spark plugs and changes the lead on the cylinder it has a new tp100 harness with a dicktator ignition moduel ... can anbody help ?? head was also reconditioned

Can you please relook your sentences. It's like there arewords missing and I cannot make out what the heck you are asking.

panic-mechanic wrote:Can you please relook your sentences. It's like there arewords missing and I cannot make out what the heck you are asking.

+1...but for a start, do a compression test.

sorry guys i was typing on my phone um ok i have a golf mk1 with a 1.8 8v bottom end i have balanced the bottom end and it has 20thou oversize pistons it also has a kr 16v head with stock cams , im running a dicktator STD with a tp100 and a dicktator ignition moduel , the car went for a dyno yesterday ,i couldnt get it started so when the guys did get it started we found that it was only running on 3 cylinders we replaced spark plugs and leads we also checked injectors the head was reconditioned when i balanced the bottom end is there anything else i can check? could it be the dizzy that doesnt spark on cylinder one??thanks in advance

Check the compression, then check you have spark everywhere, then check you have fuel out of all the injectors

If that all checks out you have a timing issue. Are you using a 60-2 pick up? Or just hall sensor? Batch fueling i presume, i don't know the dictator systems at all but can imagine that it can do both batch and sequential fueling? Check you have it set to the right one.

Did you pocket the pistons and double check the cam timing?

pistons sit 2.0mm below block .. checked fueling and spark all is 100% could i have a bent valve ?? pistons were pocketed.

working with a hall sender.

You would have picked up a bent valve on the compression test

Took the head off ....... valves hit pistons .........

Did you fit a spacerplate to drop the CR ?

nope no spacer plate . new valvesin the head and space plate added but still zero compression on cylinder 1,2,4 guage doesnt move only on cylinder 3 does it jump to 400 ... check block nothing is leaking through by pistons i out some petrol in the cylinders i dono if its true that u can test it like that but its been 40min and petrol is still there on all 4 cylinders could it be a problem with the head ???

Please use proper spelling and grammar, this is not BBM or Mxit or an SMS

That being said, are you 100% sure the cam timing is correct? Seems to me that there is an issue with cam timing and the valves are not opening and closing when they should.

smash!! wrote:nope no spacer plate .

So lett me get this ... you have a stock 1.8 short block bottom end and simply put a 16V head on ?

Gin Fokken wonder jy bliksem die valves nie

Take the head off because you just bent 8 more valves ! Speak to Donnald (Duck) and get a spacer plate from him and 2 head gaskets ... refit the lott and you should now be able to get it started without stuffing it up. Also remember that like Ryan said do the timing carefully the 16V is tricky. Make sure that you get the 2 dots lined up properly in the 2 cam pullies that run on the inside of the head. If they line up make sure that the dot on the outside of the outside cam pulley lines up with the mark on the tappet cuver NOT the head like on the 8V !

You need to pocket the pistons. Even with the timing right on that combo there is a good chance you will hit the valves as soon as they start opening.

Ok guys the motor is at the engineers. they are busy fixing the bent valves. also going to organise the spacer plate will pm donald (duck) now to ask for prices on it thanks. sorry for the bad typing. yes the timing was 100%.

So you really have not worked out CR or anything like that? Now you install a spacer plate with 2 gaskets. Do you know what that will do to cr? Why not rather pocket the pistons.? Ag nevermind. Just do whatever.

panic ive been reading up alot on the convertion that im doing its the KR head that im using so with the 1.8 8v pistons it should drop the compression ratio on the motor to 8.5:1 so now only thing that went wrong on the motor was valve hit pistons, i dropped the motor at the engineers yesterday and i told them what you said about pocketing the pistons they are gonna see how much space there is between valves and pist and what the compression ratio is. i dont know how to work out the CR so im going to let them do it. so everything is correct.

Listen to Panic.

The man has done this type of thing more than most of us combined. If you have a 2.0 8V longblock sub assembly and you put a KR head on it then and only then do you get a CR of around 8.5:1 and even then it is still adviceable to pocket the pistons .

smash!! wrote:pistons sit 2.0mm below block .. checked fueling and spark all is 100% could i have a bent valve ?? pistons were pocketed.

Am i missing something here? that don't sound right to me.

yes i am listening to panic.

only on the long blocks?? ok ill hear what the compression ratio is once the engineers work it out and post it up panic how would i work out the compression ratio??

You have to physically measure volumes ie how mich are in the head. How much volume in the block side at tdc and how much in the gasket. Then there is a formula to work it out once you have the volumes.

panic-mechanic wrote:You have to physically measure volumes ie how mich are in the head. How much volume in the block side at tdc and how much in the gasket. Then there is a formula to work it out once you have the volumes.

Hehe a certain Excel spreadsheet comes to mind.

ok thanks panic

If you running a stock 1.8 8v bottom end, you do not need a spacer plate. You will how ever need to pocket the pistons to insure that it does not bend valves. I am busy with a 1.6 with a KR head and turbo. Also have to pocket the pistons but compression is prefect for turbo.

use cti pistons in the 1.8l short block,get the pistons pocketted and u don't need exspesive spacers,just work out the cr as panic said,but a steal headgasket is the best for boost, from a 1.8l polo 97 wil work,cost R200 from master parts,the elring make,get new head bolts and torq that right too R200 and let the engineers check if the blocks deck is straight and the head is flat,best is to schim both lightly as stealheadgasket hates scew or worn surfaces and wil not seal then.