crawler wrote:ooo nice, my next step is HU and maybe also rear fill
do the cover have space for tweeter?
Not sure I follow... The rear panel has the tweeter "integrated" into it so I just have to undo the plastic welds and take them out. I just stuck the new tweeters to the inside panel and they will now sit behind the grill on the outside panel.
Makes sense? The speaker rings are just for the 6.5" mids
'04 Polo TDI 1661.9 km on 58.05l
'13 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.2 Elite
PoloVDub wrote:This looks really awesome! how is the space between the sub and the Amps?
The space between the sub and amps are exactly the width of the sparewheel well, just enough for my laptop bag and some shopping. That's all I ever carry in the car.
'04 Polo TDI 1661.9 km on 58.05l
'13 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.2 Elite
Awesome thread bro! I am looking at doing a similiar install in my 2012 Polo, but a 12'' sub. How big is your sub? and what wood did you use for the sub-housing? I like how you have integrated your spare wheel in the works as i want to do the same, nothing worse then having to take out a sub box when you need to change a tyre! Just one note, i could be under correction. But i've been told that any sub enclosure should have air holes for the pressure the sub creates within the box. Is this really needed? I just notice you never had that on your enclosure. Ill post pics in my thread when i get to installing the sub and amp.
lgmasters86 wrote:Awesome thread bro! I am looking at doing a similiar install in my 2012 Polo, but a 12'' sub. How big is your sub? and what wood did you use for the sub-housing? I like how you have integrated your spare wheel in the works as i want to do the same, nothing worse then having to take out a sub box when you need to change a tyre! Just one note, i could be under correction. But i've been told that any sub enclosure should have air holes for the pressure the sub creates within the box. Is this really needed? I just notice you never had that on your enclosure. Ill post pics in my thread when i get to installing the sub and amp.
I just used MDF (medium density fibre) or Supawood. I "designed" my box and had most of the bits cut up by Builders warehouse where I bought the MDF.
No a port is not required but the technicallities behind that is beyond me, Killerwatt can give more insight here. My sub is a 10" and according to me more than big enough for the "little" Polo. The box is around 21l.
A few things I would do different though. That amplifier mounting on the right is coming out and I am just going to mount them on the seat back. The Focal amps are rather big and changing the tail light bulbs on the right is now a royal pain!! I think it will be better for their cooling too.
If you are close to Rivonia you are welcome to come and listen to my setup...
'04 Polo TDI 1661.9 km on 58.05l
'13 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.2 Elite
I thought so, and thickness? 20mm? I also just thought the holes always looked badass, especially if you make them with a metal tube. And what head unit are you using with RCS outputs? And in terms of the spare, did you just trim the cover where the sub box sits so that you can lift the spare cover up easily? I will be just installing one 4channel amp and will just bridge the sub connection to the rear. Will post images to my thread of the sub box construction when i get a chance.
I'd love to come bro but im unfortunately all the way in East London!
lgmasters86 wrote:I thought so, and thickness? 20mm? I also just thought the holes always looked badass, especially if you make them with a metal tube. And what head unit are you using with RCS outputs? And in terms of the spare, did you just trim the cover where the sub box sits so that you can lift the spare cover up easily? I will be just installing one 4channel amp and will just bridge the sub connection to the rear. Will post images to my thread of the sub box construction when i get a chance.
I'd love to come bro but im unfortunately all the way in East London!
It is 16mm MDF, you are going to battle to find the other thicknesses and when you do, then they don't cut...
Head unit is a Kenwood KDC-BT51U with three pre-outs all connected.
I made a new spare cover but when I move the amps I will revert to the old one and modify it slightly.
'04 Polo TDI 1661.9 km on 58.05l
'13 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.2 Elite
EX-DOHCTOR wrote: I'd make sure I understand the differences between fish and engine components before attempting any modifications on my motor vehicle as a start.
Psycho1400 wrote:It wasn't an oil leak, it was a horsepower sweat...
On the box side of things, i think you are referinh to a ported box. That requires a pipe of a particular length and diameter to improve the bass. A simple hole would just be a leak and is a big no no.
Also 16mm mdf with bracing is much better than 32mm mdf without bracing...
Killerwatt wrote:It looks really neat in the flesh.
On the box side of things, i think you are referinh to a ported box. That requires a pipe of a particular length and diameter to improve the bass. A simple hole would just be a leak and is a big no no.
Also 16mm mdf with bracing is much better than 32mm mdf without bracing...
Hey Killerwatt,
When you say a pipe of particular length, is there a standard size when creating a hole for a 12'' sub? Diameter and length? I bought a ready-made box in my last car which had two holes with a tube inlay. bass sounded amazing. How does one determine if this hole is needed and the size it needs to be?
Reviving my old thread for a little bit of troubleshooting...
So the bass has left... I leave the subwoofer "off" on the headunit and the higher level sound is fine through the 4 splits.
As soon as I turn on the sub there is no bass from the woofer and the interior lights of the car dimm like the battery is being pulled flat. If you leave it like this for a trip the monoblock gets moer hot and the LED starts flashing red.
Where do I start? Did something go in the amp or did I pop one of the voice coils? It is a dual 4ohm coil amp connected in parralell to bring it down to 2ohm, so the little logic left in my head tells me it is the amp as if one of the VCs popped it will still only be 4ohm.
Can one of the specialist possibly shed some light here
'04 Polo TDI 1661.9 km on 58.05l
'13 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.2 Elite
Hey, nice install, hope you get it sorted.Your problem might be relating to a short across your speaker outputs - test this theory by disconnecting your sub at the amp and measuring the resistance at the speaker cables across positive/negative (~1.8 ohm DC resistance if dual 4 ohm in parallel), you can also run the amp without speaker cables connected to see if it still does the same thing.
Usually popped voice coils go open circuit, so I doubt that could cause such current drain which is usually a result of a dead short
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Beeno wrote: ↑Tue May 30, 2017 3:38 pm
Hey, nice install, hope you get it sorted.Your problem might be relating to a short across your speaker outputs - test this theory by disconnecting your sub at the amp and measuring the resistance at the speaker cables across positive/negative (~1.8 ohm DC resistance if dual 4 ohm in parallel), you can also run the amp without speaker cables connected to see if it still does the same thing.
Usually popped voice coils go open circuit, so I doubt that could cause such current drain which is usually a result of a dead short
Wow, It's been two years... shows you how much I care about bass these days.
Finally took the sub out and hooked the voice coils up in series to the 4 channel amp (bridged) and that amp also goes into protection immediately.
Seems the sub went for a ball of ****, I will have it tested but I expected more from this brand... Also not sure if I should bother as a new similar one is not too expensive.
Can it be fixed, should I bother?
'04 Polo TDI 1661.9 km on 58.05l
'13 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.2 Elite
