140k km engine rebuild and FI conversion. Suggestions
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140k km engine rebuild and FI conversion. Suggestions
I'm planning on going from carb to MP9. In the process,doing a 1.6 to 1.8 upgrade as well.
The head going on is fully reconned worked head.
I know the block need to be honed. I want to balance the bottom end as well.
The oil pump and waterpump is virtualy new. Clutch assy has sub 5k km on it. Seals on gearbox are new.
Im changing the crank seal on the cambelt side as well. The seal on the gearbox side is also quite new.
Now,what other neat tips do you have when rebuilding a motor?
The head going on is fully reconned worked head.
I know the block need to be honed. I want to balance the bottom end as well.
The oil pump and waterpump is virtualy new. Clutch assy has sub 5k km on it. Seals on gearbox are new.
Im changing the crank seal on the cambelt side as well. The seal on the gearbox side is also quite new.
Now,what other neat tips do you have when rebuilding a motor?
Current:
2005 BMW 330i (E90) The Beef
Ex:
1999 Audi A4 1.8T (AEB) the tank
1992 VW Citi 1.8i MP9 R.I.P.
1973 Mini Cooper S sold
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Thanks bud. Yeah, this motor will be good for 200k km's + after this rebuild! (and hopefully close to 100hp and 130nm)Solo786 wrote:you seem to have all your boxes checked mate..
Just take your time and double check everything is correct when rebuilding the motor..should be smooth sailing
Current:
2005 BMW 330i (E90) The Beef
Ex:
1999 Audi A4 1.8T (AEB) the tank
1992 VW Citi 1.8i MP9 R.I.P.
1973 Mini Cooper S sold
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Ok, scrapping the poly-mount bush idea as we speaknick wrote:poly mounts are nice to minimise movement, but dont be fooled. they are hard. Ive got a poly front one and theres alot more vibrations.1.6carbster wrote:I'm also considering changing the engine mounts to poly-mountings.
From the loads of replies, i guess i've got it all covered?
Current:
2005 BMW 330i (E90) The Beef
Ex:
1999 Audi A4 1.8T (AEB) the tank
1992 VW Citi 1.8i MP9 R.I.P.
1973 Mini Cooper S sold
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yeah the poly mounts are horrible for engine mounts, makes everything inside the cabin rattle.
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2001 Polo classic 16v ABF Featured * BLUEmotion
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You clearly have more balls than me.
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i think with a fully worked head and all , you will probably look at between 100-110whp and more than likely 140Nm ATW1.6carbster wrote:and hopefully close to 100hp and 130nm
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bit of a dumb question.What does ''Balancing the bottom end'' mean?
And,Mr Bolton, I believe your current 1.6 carbster(sorry,felt good saying that) setup is wicked.Mind telling me what mods you had?
And,Mr Bolton, I believe your current 1.6 carbster(sorry,felt good saying that) setup is wicked.Mind telling me what mods you had?
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Double and triple check everything! Check all ancillary components for wear etc etc.
Perhaps fit a baffled sump and an oil cooler? Remember to oil up all the bearings like a mofo
Also, how old and used is your torque wrench? Invest in a good quality one like a Gedore. Buy a bunch of ziplock containers and while you're stripping the motor, use them to store and catalog all your bolts etc.
What headbolts are you going to use?
Other than that, remember to thoroughly clean all reused components, an oil pan and a spray gun filled with paraffin works wonders
Good luck Chris, your car's gonna be a beast
Perhaps fit a baffled sump and an oil cooler? Remember to oil up all the bearings like a mofo
Also, how old and used is your torque wrench? Invest in a good quality one like a Gedore. Buy a bunch of ziplock containers and while you're stripping the motor, use them to store and catalog all your bolts etc.
What headbolts are you going to use?
Other than that, remember to thoroughly clean all reused components, an oil pan and a spray gun filled with paraffin works wonders
Good luck Chris, your car's gonna be a beast
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man,now that'll be something!sixteen10 wrote:i think with a fully worked head and all , you will probably look at between 100-110whp and more than likely 140Nm ATW1.6carbster wrote:and hopefully close to 100hp and 130nm
Current:
2005 BMW 330i (E90) The Beef
Ex:
1999 Audi A4 1.8T (AEB) the tank
1992 VW Citi 1.8i MP9 R.I.P.
1973 Mini Cooper S sold
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lol,thanks GS! I have an MP9 airbox, 268/272 split duration cam, 4into2into1 wildcat branch,50mm mild steel 2 box freeflow and a re-jetted stock carburettor.GhettoSta wrote:bit of a dumb question.What does ''Balancing the bottom end'' mean?
And,Mr Bolton, I believe your current 1.6 carbster(sorry,felt good saying that) setup is wicked.Mind telling me what mods you had?
Current:
2005 BMW 330i (E90) The Beef
Ex:
1999 Audi A4 1.8T (AEB) the tank
1992 VW Citi 1.8i MP9 R.I.P.
1973 Mini Cooper S sold
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thanks for the tips dieter! And the good thing is, MacMan will be assisting and guiding me with the conversion. So al his knowledge will be super handy and sugestions from his side wil be adhered to!!Uitenhage.com wrote:Double and triple check everything! Check all ancillary components for wear etc etc.
Perhaps fit a baffled sump and an oil cooler? Remember to oil up all the bearings like a mofo
Also, how old and used is your torque wrench? Invest in a good quality one like a Gedore. Buy a bunch of ziplock containers and while you're stripping the motor, use them to store and catalog all your bolts etc.
What headbolts are you going to use?
Other than that, remember to thoroughly clean all reused components, an oil pan and a spray gun filled with paraffin works wonders
Good luck Chris, your car's gonna be a beast
Current:
2005 BMW 330i (E90) The Beef
Ex:
1999 Audi A4 1.8T (AEB) the tank
1992 VW Citi 1.8i MP9 R.I.P.
1973 Mini Cooper S sold
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Do you have an FI head ?
Joggie Pretorius
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Indeed!joggiep wrote:Do you have an FI head ?
Ported
flowed
big valve
spiral cut valves
3-angle cut valve seat something something!
fully re-conned
It was from a Velo with less than 1000km on the clock!
Current:
2005 BMW 330i (E90) The Beef
Ex:
1999 Audi A4 1.8T (AEB) the tank
1992 VW Citi 1.8i MP9 R.I.P.
1973 Mini Cooper S sold
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1.6Carbster!
Nice dude, your cab is gonna haul @ss once your conversion is done.
Big up to you dude.
Big up to you dude.
Mk1 1.8i 8v MP9
De-trumpet Airbox (std. filter)
50mm TNT F/Flow
40mm N-Force Drop
Life Tail Lights
Future mods:
272/6 Estas Cam
2E 2L 8v motor
De-trumpet Airbox (std. filter)
50mm TNT F/Flow
40mm N-Force Drop
Life Tail Lights
Future mods:
272/6 Estas Cam
2E 2L 8v motor
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Re: 1.6Carbster!
Thanks boet! Absolutely can't wait to get my hands dirty, albeit only the healthy one most of the times!Mk1-8valve wrote:Nice dude, your cab is gonna haul @ss once your conversion is done.
Big up to you dude.
Another question: What grade oil should be used for the running in period?
Current:
2005 BMW 330i (E90) The Beef
Ex:
1999 Audi A4 1.8T (AEB) the tank
1992 VW Citi 1.8i MP9 R.I.P.
1973 Mini Cooper S sold
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The top surface of the valve where the stem is attached to has a groove cut into it forming the "spiral"
The claim is that it makes the air flowing past the valve turbulent, this prevents the phenomenon called "shear flow" from occuring...
Shear flow is where by when air is flowing through the intake mani the outside layer of air that makes contact with the surfaces of the manifold slows down..and the inner layer of air is still faster.. Overall the air on the outside layer starts acting almost like another 'surface' of the manifold itself... reducing the flow of air...
thats why we employ techniques such as gas flowing, porting, polishing, spiral cuts on the valves and angle cut valve seats...
The claim is that it makes the air flowing past the valve turbulent, this prevents the phenomenon called "shear flow" from occuring...
Shear flow is where by when air is flowing through the intake mani the outside layer of air that makes contact with the surfaces of the manifold slows down..and the inner layer of air is still faster.. Overall the air on the outside layer starts acting almost like another 'surface' of the manifold itself... reducing the flow of air...
thats why we employ techniques such as gas flowing, porting, polishing, spiral cuts on the valves and angle cut valve seats...
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the surface of the inlet valves is machined in a spiral way, from the valve stem to the bottom of the valve. this enhances the mixture of the fuel and air and accelerates the velocity of the entering mixture.
*this is my view on spiral cut valves* i might be wrong
*this is my view on spiral cut valves* i might be wrong
Current:
2005 BMW 330i (E90) The Beef
Ex:
1999 Audi A4 1.8T (AEB) the tank
1992 VW Citi 1.8i MP9 R.I.P.
1973 Mini Cooper S sold
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Using good fuel (BP95 UL is my juice of choice)
Really is a clean burning fuel! As seen on the BP A8 demo car at MPH '08 show.
No build up on the valves after 5000km of driving.
Really is a clean burning fuel! As seen on the BP A8 demo car at MPH '08 show.
No build up on the valves after 5000km of driving.
Current:
2005 BMW 330i (E90) The Beef
Ex:
1999 Audi A4 1.8T (AEB) the tank
1992 VW Citi 1.8i MP9 R.I.P.
1973 Mini Cooper S sold
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IMHO the spiral cut valve part is not as significant a performance increase as say for example the porling and polishing of the head it self.
But, all the head modifications work together to form a well sorted "head job" i guess
But, all the head modifications work together to form a well sorted "head job" i guess
Current:
2005 BMW 330i (E90) The Beef
Ex:
1999 Audi A4 1.8T (AEB) the tank
1992 VW Citi 1.8i MP9 R.I.P.
1973 Mini Cooper S sold
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i myself am quite a fan of the "hand job" too1.6carbster wrote:to form a well sorted "head job" i guess
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