wow... is that the price of a polisher?Djin wrote:We currently stocking both the Shield and the Flex VRG nowLife160 wrote:Depending on your budget, CD has the Shield on special.Yakuza Racer wrote:any polishers up for grabs or know where i can buy?
Autofinesse has the higher end Flex machines.
Detailing Products & Equipment Sale/Swop/Trade Thread
Forum rules
Please take a look at the rules for posting in the Technical section as all posts will be moderated accordingly...
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Please take a look at the rules for posting in the Technical section as all posts will be moderated accordingly...
Technical Section Rules
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- Voora Molester
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Re: Detailing Products & Equipment Sale/Swop/Trade Thread
Thupercharged S4
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Re: Detailing Products & Equipment Sale/Swop/Trade Thread
That is actually a damn good price for that machine. I own one and it an absolute beast of a machine. Would highly recommend one to anyone who is going to be doing a lot of polishing.
For the typical guy looking after his own cars only, I do not see the need for anything more than the Shield DA (will perform just as well as the Megs unit, for half the price).
Guesstimate amounts for various Dual Action machine types....
Shield R2K
Megs R4K
Flex 3401 R6k
Cyclo R9K
Rupes R12K
Then you still need to get set up with pads and backing plates etc.
For the typical guy looking after his own cars only, I do not see the need for anything more than the Shield DA (will perform just as well as the Megs unit, for half the price).
Guesstimate amounts for various Dual Action machine types....
Shield R2K
Megs R4K
Flex 3401 R6k
Cyclo R9K
Rupes R12K
Then you still need to get set up with pads and backing plates etc.
- Kyle
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Re: Detailing Products & Equipment Sale/Swop/Trade Thread
Rupes LHR15 - +- R7200lawrence wrote:That is actually a damn good price for that machine. I own one and it an absolute beast of a machine. Would highly recommend one to anyone who is going to be doing a lot of polishing.
For the typical guy looking after his own cars only, I do not see the need for anything more than the Shield DA (will perform just as well as the Megs unit, for half the price).
Guesstimate amounts for various Dual Action machine types....
Shield R2K
Megs R4K
Flex 3401 R6k
Cyclo R9K
Rupes R12K
Then you still need to get set up with pads and backing plates etc.
Rupes Duetto - R6200
Current:
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Ex:
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Re: Detailing Products & Equipment Sale/Swop/Trade Thread
Wait. You seem comfortable with the Shield / Megs comparison?Kyle wrote:Rupes LHR15 - +- R7200lawrence wrote:That is actually a damn good price for that machine. I own one and it an absolute beast of a machine. Would highly recommend one to anyone who is going to be doing a lot of polishing.
For the typical guy looking after his own cars only, I do not see the need for anything more than the Shield DA (will perform just as well as the Megs unit, for half the price).
Guesstimate amounts for various Dual Action machine types....
Shield R2K
Megs R4K
Flex 3401 R6k
Cyclo R9K
Rupes R12K
Then you still need to get set up with pads and backing plates etc.
Rupes Duetto - R6200
:p
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Re: Detailing Products & Equipment Sale/Swop/Trade Thread
link for where i can buy the shield one for a good price?lawrence wrote:That is actually a damn good price for that machine. I own one and it an absolute beast of a machine. Would highly recommend one to anyone who is going to be doing a lot of polishing.
For the typical guy looking after his own cars only, I do not see the need for anything more than the Shield DA (will perform just as well as the Megs unit, for half the price).
Guesstimate amounts for various Dual Action machine types....
Shield R2K
Megs R4K
Flex 3401 R6k
Cyclo R9K
Rupes R12K
Then you still need to get set up with pads and backing plates etc.
Thupercharged S4
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Re: Detailing Products & Equipment Sale/Swop/Trade Thread
Machine only http://www.crazydetailer.co.za/index.ph ... cts_id=667
Machine plus some pads/polishes/MF towels http://www.crazydetailer.co.za/index.ph ... cts_id=781
In any event, you will need to still budget to purchase a few extra pads....
Machine plus some pads/polishes/MF towels http://www.crazydetailer.co.za/index.ph ... cts_id=781
In any event, you will need to still budget to purchase a few extra pads....
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Re: Detailing Products & Equipment Sale/Swop/Trade Thread
Where is the Megs machine available from? Havent seen them being sold locally for a long time now...lawrence wrote:That is actually a damn good price for that machine. I own one and it an absolute beast of a machine. Would highly recommend one to anyone who is going to be doing a lot of polishing.
For the typical guy looking after his own cars only, I do not see the need for anything more than the Shield DA (will perform just as well as the Megs unit, for half the price).
Guesstimate amounts for various Dual Action machine types....
Shield R2K
Megs R4K
Flex 3401 R6k
Cyclo R9K
Rupes R12K
Then you still need to get set up with pads and backing plates etc.
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Re: Detailing Products & Equipment Sale/Swop/Trade Thread
Keizin Automotiveruthless roy wrote:
Where is the Megs machine available from? Havent seen them being sold locally for a long time now...
Last quote i got was around R4100 excl VAT
19 Tiguan 2.0 TDI R Highline
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Re: Detailing Products & Equipment Sale/Swop/Trade Thread
+1.LFC wrote:Keizin Automotiveruthless roy wrote:
Where is the Megs machine available from? Havent seen them being sold locally for a long time now...
Last quote i got was around R4100 excl VAT
This was last month.
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Re: Detailing Products & Equipment Sale/Swop/Trade Thread
Meguiars New Car Kit - R500 , brand new never opened.
"Your whole year's po3s also, bud" - Ghandi
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Re: Detailing Products & Equipment Sale/Swop/Trade Thread
Hey Lawrence hope ur well... do you still have the products or are they sold?
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- Lord of the Sponge
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Re: Detailing Products & Equipment Sale/Swop/Trade Thread
I have the following leftquintinm wrote:Hey Lawrence hope ur well... do you still have the products or are they sold?
Meguiars NXT Tech wax (half) R473 new - yours for R180
Smartwax Smart Sealant (250ml) R165 for 500ml new - yours for R50
Gyeon Bathe (350ml) R150 for 400ml new - yours for R100
Glossworx Extreme Tire Shine 500ml (unused) R108 new yours for R75
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Re: Detailing Products & Equipment Sale/Swop/Trade Thread
Shield DA polisher deal
http://vwclub.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=183736
http://vwclub.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=183736
*** The MKVI How-To, FAQ, and Do-It-Yourself Guide ***
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Re: Detailing Products & Equipment Sale/Swop/Trade Thread
I have the following left
Meguiars NXT Tech wax (half) R473 new - yours for R180
Smartwax Smart Sealant (250ml) R165 for 500ml new - yours for R50
Gyeon Bathe (350ml) R150 for 400ml new - yours for R100
Glossworx Extreme Tire Shine 500ml (unused) R108 new yours for R75 sold
Meguiars NXT Tech wax (half) R473 new - yours for R180
Smartwax Smart Sealant (250ml) R165 for 500ml new - yours for R50
Gyeon Bathe (350ml) R150 for 400ml new - yours for R100
Glossworx Extreme Tire Shine 500ml (unused) R108 new yours for R75 sold
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Re: Detailing Products & Equipment Sale/Swop/Trade Thread
pm'drodga wrote:Shield DA polisher deal
http://vwclub.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=183736
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Re: Detailing Products & Equipment Sale/Swop/Trade Thread
This may be a long shot...
I'm looking for Chemical Guys Hybrid V7 to test with my CG Blacklight - if anyone has.
I'm looking for Chemical Guys Hybrid V7 to test with my CG Blacklight - if anyone has.
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Re: Detailing Products & Equipment Sale/Swop/Trade Thread
Hi Guys
i am selling my Rupes LHR 15 ES Kit. Used once for one hour.
Comes with the following:
LHR 15ES Polisher
2 x polish
2 x pads
1 x Padded carry bag
1 x apron
I paid R8800.00
Asking price R7500.00.
Thanks
Dishen
0832005160
i am selling my Rupes LHR 15 ES Kit. Used once for one hour.
Comes with the following:
LHR 15ES Polisher
2 x polish
2 x pads
1 x Padded carry bag
1 x apron
I paid R8800.00
Asking price R7500.00.
Thanks
Dishen
0832005160
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- Location: Witbank
Re: Detailing Products & Equipment Sale/Swop/Trade Thread
So I've just came across this threat and would like to know if I'm the only guy who prefers(my opinion) the farecla polishes
like the following
G3
G6
G10
G12
G18
GLAZE
G-scuff
and all with correct type of mop/foam pads
Just wondered...
like the following
G3
G6
G10
G12
G18
GLAZE
G-scuff
and all with correct type of mop/foam pads
Just wondered...
EX CARS
MKII JUMBO 1.8 GTI ---Gave to my younger brother,Got it from my dad
UNO PACER SX 1400 ---- Gave it to the wife then sold
MK1 89 2l 8V MP9 ---Sold
MKII 89 2L 8V TURBO ---Swapped for Passat
09 Corsa Bakiekie ---Sold
CURRENT
81 1800 Passat B2 GL-E --- Cruising high and slow
stock standard
Golf 4 1.6SR --- In progress
14 Bantam 1.6 Rocam --- Daily
***The less the traction...The more the action***
MKII JUMBO 1.8 GTI ---Gave to my younger brother,Got it from my dad
UNO PACER SX 1400 ---- Gave it to the wife then sold
MK1 89 2l 8V MP9 ---Sold
MKII 89 2L 8V TURBO ---Swapped for Passat
09 Corsa Bakiekie ---Sold
CURRENT
81 1800 Passat B2 GL-E --- Cruising high and slow
stock standard
Golf 4 1.6SR --- In progress
14 Bantam 1.6 Rocam --- Daily
***The less the traction...The more the action***
- Lambchop
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Re: Detailing Products & Equipment Sale/Swop/Trade Thread
I take it you work/own a panel shop?Stef@nus wrote:So I've just came across this threat and would like to know if I'm the only guy who prefers(my opinion) the farecla polishes
like the following
G3
G6
G10
G12
G18
GLAZE
G-scuff
and all with correct type of mop/foam pads
Just wondered...
-
- Cadet
- Posts: 175
- Registered for: 8 years 10 months
- Car Make: VW
- Car Model: MKII 2L 8V
- Location: Witbank
Re: Detailing Products & Equipment Sale/Swop/Trade Thread
In my own time I fix,spray,polish cars at my house...
I work at Balco(Witbank)
Future plans is to open my own panel shop
I work at Balco(Witbank)
Future plans is to open my own panel shop
EX CARS
MKII JUMBO 1.8 GTI ---Gave to my younger brother,Got it from my dad
UNO PACER SX 1400 ---- Gave it to the wife then sold
MK1 89 2l 8V MP9 ---Sold
MKII 89 2L 8V TURBO ---Swapped for Passat
09 Corsa Bakiekie ---Sold
CURRENT
81 1800 Passat B2 GL-E --- Cruising high and slow
stock standard
Golf 4 1.6SR --- In progress
14 Bantam 1.6 Rocam --- Daily
***The less the traction...The more the action***
MKII JUMBO 1.8 GTI ---Gave to my younger brother,Got it from my dad
UNO PACER SX 1400 ---- Gave it to the wife then sold
MK1 89 2l 8V MP9 ---Sold
MKII 89 2L 8V TURBO ---Swapped for Passat
09 Corsa Bakiekie ---Sold
CURRENT
81 1800 Passat B2 GL-E --- Cruising high and slow
stock standard
Golf 4 1.6SR --- In progress
14 Bantam 1.6 Rocam --- Daily
***The less the traction...The more the action***
-
- Lord of the Sponge
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Re: Detailing Products & Equipment Sale/Swop/Trade Thread
I'd like to share my thoughts with you and hope you will take them as intended - i.e. I am not trying to knock you in any way, shape or form, but having spent a few years in the detailing game I have had the opportunity to see first hand what body shops do to paint, and so more than anything, I would like to try and share my thoughts on what they do wrong - hopefully this will allow you to separate yourself from the masses and produce some quality work.Stef@nus wrote:In my own time I fix,spray,polish cars at my house...
I work at Balco(Witbank)
Future plans is to open my own panel shop
I have obviously never worked in a body shop, so before all of the regular 'oh but you haven't used that specific product so you can't comment on it' crowd start jumping up and down..... what follows is MY OPINION, and obviously assumes all body shops are the same (which we know they aren't)..... use it..... don't use it...
Firstly, the Farcela products you mention are used quite a lot in the refinishing industry, along with products like Presta, Bulldog and 3M... and from the small bit of research I did into them on a few of the international detailing sites I frequent, a few of the guys seem to favor it over say something like 3M - I would therefore think that, in this category of products, they are not bad at all.
So obviously in the refinishing industry, along with the 'production' detailing world (think commercial detailers, the corner garage etc) time really is money and so the guy behind the machine is forced to make the car shiny as quickly as possible. To do so, generally he will perform an aggressive cut with a rotary machine, a wool mop (as they like to call them) and a compound. This very aggressive combination allows you to very quickly remove a lot of paint off the car, and so this ensures a very quick removal of the defects (be they sanding marks or things like swirls or scratches). I would bet that in most cases, proper technique with the rotary has not been entrenched (not necessarily the operators fault - sometimes the boss simply sees investing in training as not important, believing more focus is needed on doing the painting well, and the polishing is 'not a big deal') and when you combine this with the 'one-size-fits-all' approach used by these guys, a couple of very serious issues arise.
Firstly, not all paint is created equal... it varies in its inherent make up (different brands of paint), in how thick it has been sprayed and how hard it is. A typicaly VW OEM Paint job may be in the region of 140µ to 160µ and is typically quite hard whereas a repainted VW could be in the region of 250µ to 400µ and a little bit softer than OEM, or harder.....there is no consistency....
So in the above example, the dude polishing the repainted car has more than twice the amount of paint to play with.... if he uses a very aggressive combo (the rotary, wool pad and compound) it doesn't matter if he for example lobs off 30µ as it is a small % of the overall paint film build, but take the same 30µ off a 50µ clear coat and you have SERIOUSLY compromised the integrity of the paint. By the same logic, use an aggressive combination on HARD paint and it could remove for example 30µ but use that same combo on excessively SOFT paint and maybe it removes 50µ (the numbers are not important so please refrain from getting caught up on the specifics.... it is the principal that is important).
So, knowing this.... the main issue I encounter is that body shop guys will often remove much more paint than was necessary, more so on OEM cars - for example, a front door on a Subaru is repainted. When polishing, the dude grabs the products his boss told him to - step 1....rotary wool pad and compound..... he starts polishing the repainted door and sees how much effort is required to correct the (harder than OEM) freshly painted door. Once done, he then also polishes out the rest of the car (you know, to make it nice and shiny for the customer) and in so doing is removing so much more paint on the OEM sections, and could easily remove ALL the clear coat.
So, IMO, if you want to better the rest in this regard, you need to have some flexibility in your product range in terms of polishes that cut more, and some that cut less, and you need to establish if the paint you are working on is hard or soft, if the damaged is deep or not, and adjust your approach to ensure you remove as little of the paint as possible.
Secondly, poor technique and/or being too aggressive with your combo leads to buffer trails. These are scratches imparted into the clear coat and look like this.
(google pic)
Although they look horrific, they are generally speaking quite shallow scratches and are relatively easy to fix, however I have dealt with a few cars where the buffer trails ran really deep into the clear coat and took a fair amount of work to get out. So with them being (generally) shallow, the approach used by most is to now use (still with a rotary and a wool mop and maybe if you are lucky, with a less aggressive foam pad) a glaze to cover up the buffer trails.... a glaze can be thought of (in an over-simplified way) as a thick creamy liquid that once applied to the paint, will settle in the valleys created by scratches, filling them and creating the illusion of perfectly flat paint. So the customer sees a car that looks perfectly polished, but once the glaze starts washing out, the buffer trails are revealed.
Also, I very often have to detail cars that have had body work done and the sanding/flatting marks are still very evident in the paint because the dude at the body shop never double checked his work and missed massive spots.
Another issue under the 'poor technique' banner is that of polishing over raised body lines and over the edges of panels where the paint is naturally thinner, leading to strike-throughs (where all of the clear has been polished off). Preventive measures such as taping off these sections would be ideal, but understandably in the environment where time is money, spending another hour on prep work (such as taping up prior to cutting) may not be feasible.
IMO if you want to separate yourself from the rest of the body shops in this regard, you will need to learn to finish off completely buffer trail free.... now again, I am not a rotary user, but from all the time spent frequenting multiple detailing forums, the one thing that seems widely accepted is that although it is possible to finish buffer trail free on some paints, it is not possible to do so on all paints all the time.... and most professional detailers will therefore tend to do their final polishing with a Dual Action machine, which physically cannot impart buffer trails into the paint.
Lastly attention to detail is generally lacking... and some examples of this are running the buffer over door rubbers or exterior plastics and leaving polish residue in body seams. Again, the issue here is that time (and thus profit) is the driving force behind how the job is approached and it is not having a quality outcome that drives it.
IMO if you want to separate yourself from the rest in this regard, you need to up your price to allow the time for quality work to be done, and do slightly less volume but with more margin....
Polishing paint is a funny thing and there is no right or wrong way to get the job done.... if you and I both use a different machine, different pads, different polish and different technique, yet we are both able to remove (for example) 25µ of paint (to remove the defects) and leave the paint perfectly flat in so doing, then the end result would be identical....the paint would look the same, and would be in the same condition with the same paint film build left on the car. However, if you removed 50µ and left the paint perfectly flat and I removed only 25µ and left the paint perfectly flat, the paint would LOOK exactly the same, but yours would be a lot thinner and more like to experience clear coat failure sooner than mine.
In other words, the difference is not in what you see, but what you can't see....
In closing, it is often touted that the abrasive you use is the most influential element on the finish of the paint. Obviously, machine, pad and technique count too. Based on that, I have always believed you should use the best abrasives you can, but I have also seen how the use of what is perceived to be a 'cheap' polish, can deliver quality results... so I would perhaps rather be focusing on the overall approach to how the car is polished before I worried too much about the actual polish being used.
Hope this was of some benefit to you, otherwise, apologies in advance for the long read
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- Cadet
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- Car Model: MKII 2L 8V
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Re: Detailing Products & Equipment Sale/Swop/Trade Thread
A lot of reading material there...
So now I know why you are called Lord of the sponge...
Truly like the way you add the MY OPINION by keeping it save...
And as you say use less aggressive compound(G3) on oem paint as it is a thinner layer of paint but all and all I believe I will benefit on some aspects of your kind and helpful words...
Thanks
(cant add any smileys,font's or quotes due to security settings)
So now I know why you are called Lord of the sponge...
Truly like the way you add the MY OPINION by keeping it save...
And as you say use less aggressive compound(G3) on oem paint as it is a thinner layer of paint but all and all I believe I will benefit on some aspects of your kind and helpful words...
Thanks
(cant add any smileys,font's or quotes due to security settings)
EX CARS
MKII JUMBO 1.8 GTI ---Gave to my younger brother,Got it from my dad
UNO PACER SX 1400 ---- Gave it to the wife then sold
MK1 89 2l 8V MP9 ---Sold
MKII 89 2L 8V TURBO ---Swapped for Passat
09 Corsa Bakiekie ---Sold
CURRENT
81 1800 Passat B2 GL-E --- Cruising high and slow
stock standard
Golf 4 1.6SR --- In progress
14 Bantam 1.6 Rocam --- Daily
***The less the traction...The more the action***
MKII JUMBO 1.8 GTI ---Gave to my younger brother,Got it from my dad
UNO PACER SX 1400 ---- Gave it to the wife then sold
MK1 89 2l 8V MP9 ---Sold
MKII 89 2L 8V TURBO ---Swapped for Passat
09 Corsa Bakiekie ---Sold
CURRENT
81 1800 Passat B2 GL-E --- Cruising high and slow
stock standard
Golf 4 1.6SR --- In progress
14 Bantam 1.6 Rocam --- Daily
***The less the traction...The more the action***
-
- Lord of the Sponge
- Posts: 10704
- Registered for: 13 years 8 months
- Car Make: VW
- Car Model: Sea Blue Polo Vivo
- Membership No: 1676
- Location: Durban
Re: Detailing Products & Equipment Sale/Swop/Trade Thread
Pleasure budStef@nus wrote:A lot of reading material there...
So now I know why you are called Lord of the sponge...
Truly like the way you add the MY OPINION by keeping it save...
And as you say use less aggressive compound(G3) on oem paint as it is a thinner layer of paint but all and all I believe I will benefit on some aspects of your kind and helpful words...
Thanks
(cant add any smileys,font's or quotes due to security settings)
I stressed its my opinion cos all too often I tend to get ripped for sharing my thoughts, which sometimes 'go against the grain', or for commenting on stuff I may not have used or for calling out hack detailers (I actually got some fully fledged hate mail the other day on this subject - if only people understood that it is the WORK that they do I can't tolerate, not the PEOPLE themselves doing the work ) and I didn't want another episode of drama lama
Not sure if you have read this yet --->http://www.vwclub.co.za/forum/viewtopic ... 0&t=166322
If not, it may be worth grabbing a cup of coffee and having a read
Also, if you haven't already, read through as many of the posts in the detailing section as you can. Most of the detailers on the forum will post up their work (some of which have some hidden gems of info in them) and sometimes threads about one thing, land up with advice on a different aspect of detailing in them, so if you keen to learn, there is plenty of opportunity to do so.
Good luck and feel free to shout back with any questions you may have....
- Kyle
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Re: Detailing Products & Equipment Sale/Swop/Trade Thread
• Item name - Paint thickness gauge
• Item description - Measures paint thickness
• Item condition - Good
• Item age - A year +-
• Reason for sale - Upgrading
• Item price - R1000 Neg
• Location - Durban
• Delivery/Collect arrangements - Collect/ship at buyer's expense
• Contact information – 073 207 9758
• Item description - Measures paint thickness
• Item condition - Good
• Item age - A year +-
• Reason for sale - Upgrading
• Item price - R1000 Neg
• Location - Durban
• Delivery/Collect arrangements - Collect/ship at buyer's expense
• Contact information – 073 207 9758
Current:
'03 BMW E46 330i Individual
Ex:
'06 Impreza 2.0R Wagon
'03 S3 8L
'11 A3 1.6TDi
'70 VW Beetle 1600 Twin Port
'00 A4 2.4 V6,
'09 Ibiza Cupra 1.8T,
2013 Vivo Gran Turismo,
E36 M3 Coupe,
E46 320i Individual MSport,
'98 Civic V Tec,
E36 318is Msport,
E30 318i Coupe,
GOLF MK1 GT
Why make things easy for yourself when you can make them incredibly difficult and complicated.