I'm planning on going from carb to MP9. In the process,doing a 1.6 to 1.8 upgrade as well.

The head going on is fully reconned worked head.
I know the block need to be honed. I want to balance the bottom end as well.
The oil pump and waterpump is virtualy new. Clutch assy has sub 5k km on it. Seals on gearbox are new.
Im changing the crank seal on the cambelt side as well. The seal on the gearbox side is also quite new.

Now,what other neat tips do you have when rebuilding a motor?

I'm also considering changing the engine mounts to poly-mountings.

From the loads of replies, i guess i've got it all covered?

you seem to have all your boxes checked mate..

Just take your time and double check everything is correct when rebuilding the motor..should be smooth sailing

Solo786 wrote:you seem to have all your boxes checked mate..

Just take your time and double check everything is correct when rebuilding the motor..should be smooth sailing

Thanks bud. Yeah, this motor will be good for 200k km's + after this rebuild! (and hopefully close to 100hp and 130nm)

1.6carbster wrote:I'm also considering changing the engine mounts to poly-mountings.

From the loads of replies, i guess i've got it all covered?

poly mounts are nice to minimise movement, but dont be fooled. they are hard. Ive got a poly front one and theres alot more vibrations.

nick wrote:

1.6carbster wrote:I'm also considering changing the engine mounts to poly-mountings.

From the loads of replies, i guess i've got it all covered?

poly mounts are nice to minimise movement, but dont be fooled. they are hard. Ive got a poly front one and theres alot more vibrations.

Ok, scrapping the poly-mount bush idea as we speak

yeah the poly mounts are horrible for engine mounts, makes everything inside the cabin rattle.

1.6carbster wrote:and hopefully close to 100hp and 130nm

i think with a fully worked head and all , you will probably look at between 100-110whp and more than likely 140Nm ATW

bit of a dumb question.What does ''Balancing the bottom end'' mean?

And,Mr Bolton, I believe your current 1.6 carbster(sorry,felt good saying that) setup is wicked.Mind telling me what mods you had?

Double and triple check everything! Check all ancillary components for wear etc etc.

Perhaps fit a baffled sump and an oil cooler? Remember to oil up all the bearings like a mofo

Also, how old and used is your torque wrench? Invest in a good quality one like a Gedore. Buy a bunch of ziplock containers and while you're stripping the motor, use them to store and catalog all your bolts etc.

What headbolts are you going to use?

Other than that, remember to thoroughly clean all reused components, an oil pan and a spray gun filled with paraffin works wonders

Good luck Chris, your car's gonna be a beast

sixteen10 wrote:

1.6carbster wrote:and hopefully close to 100hp and 130nm

i think with a fully worked head and all , you will probably look at between 100-110whp and more than likely 140Nm ATW

man,now that'll be something!

GhettoSta wrote:bit of a dumb question.What does ''Balancing the bottom end'' mean?

And,Mr Bolton, I believe your current 1.6 carbster(sorry,felt good saying that) setup is wicked.Mind telling me what mods you had?

lol,thanks GS! I have an MP9 airbox, 268/272 split duration cam, 4into2into1 wildcat branch,50mm mild steel 2 box freeflow and a re-jetted stock carburettor.

Uitenhage.com wrote:Double and triple check everything! Check all ancillary components for wear etc etc.

Perhaps fit a baffled sump and an oil cooler? Remember to oil up all the bearings like a mofo

Also, how old and used is your torque wrench? Invest in a good quality one like a Gedore. Buy a bunch of ziplock containers and while you're stripping the motor, use them to store and catalog all your bolts etc.

What headbolts are you going to use?

Other than that, remember to thoroughly clean all reused components, an oil pan and a spray gun filled with paraffin works wonders

Good luck Chris, your car's gonna be a beast

thanks for the tips dieter! And the good thing is, MacMan will be assisting and guiding me with the conversion. So al his knowledge will be super handy and sugestions from his side wil be adhered to!!

Do you have an FI head ?

joggiep wrote:Do you have an FI head ?

Indeed!
Ported
flowed
big valve
spiral cut valves
3-angle cut valve seat something something!
fully re-conned

It was from a Velo with less than 1000km on the clock!

Nice dude, your cab is gonna haul @ss once your conversion is done.

Big up to you dude.

Mk1-8valve wrote:Nice dude, your cab is gonna haul @ss once your conversion is done.

Big up to you dude.

Thanks boet! Absolutely can't wait to get my hands dirty, albeit only the healthy one most of the times!

Another question: What grade oil should be used for the running in period?

1.6carbster wrote:spiral cut valves

Can somebody explain this to me please?

The top surface of the valve where the stem is attached to has a groove cut into it forming the "spiral"

The claim is that it makes the air flowing past the valve turbulent, this prevents the phenomenon called "shear flow" from occuring...

Shear flow is where by when air is flowing through the intake mani the outside layer of air that makes contact with the surfaces of the manifold slows down..and the inner layer of air is still faster.. Overall the air on the outside layer starts acting almost like another 'surface' of the manifold itself... reducing the flow of air...

thats why we employ techniques such as gas flowing, porting, polishing, spiral cuts on the valves and angle cut valve seats...

the surface of the inlet valves is machined in a spiral way, from the valve stem to the bottom of the valve. this enhances the mixture of the fuel and air and accelerates the velocity of the entering mixture.

*this is my view on spiral cut valves* i might be wrong

Thanks.

How long do you think that spiral stays exposed on the valve? All the motors I've stripped has had carbon built up on the valve? (unlike the seats, which being a friction surface, stays clean)

definately true blob...

thats why i rather pay more for larger and lighter valves..than to pay for them to cut the grooves..

but to defend a little - there is some marginal gain to be had from it. yet that gain would be reduced once the carbon has built up sufficiently over time.

Using good fuel (BP95 UL is my juice of choice)

Really is a clean burning fuel! As seen on the BP A8 demo car at MPH '08 show.

No build up on the valves after 5000km of driving.

IMHO the spiral cut valve part is not as significant a performance increase as say for example the porling and polishing of the head it self.

But, all the head modifications work together to form a well sorted "head job" i guess

1.6carbster wrote:to form a well sorted "head job" i guess

i myself am quite a fan of the "hand job" too