Here is a ruff picture of what it looks like on the side of my 1.8 16V - can you please help me to identify the plugs and what they do and what colour wiring goes where?
My car runs perfectly - and the oil and water temp works - only I think the Thermo Switch is not working for the cold start valve. Now seeing as I dont know which does what - this is a good time to find out - and will probably help others.
Can the numbers be named please and their wire colour(s) identified please.
The 6 is the front fuel rail injector connector. The lime green block is the WUR - please correct me if I am wrong)
1, 2, 3 and 4 are single wire type sensors.
5 is a double plug like the one that goes onto the WUR and onto 6 - being white in colour.
I think my switch is faulty to, I plugged out the Blue Connector (Thanx Stefan) on the Cold Start valve, and it seems as if my starting problems are from the past.
This is what I got from the book:
1: Dont know
2: Water Temp
3: Dont know
4: Oil temp
5: Thermotime Switch (Brown)
6: If the connector is white, it's the Warm up valve (Actually Grey) left of it should be a blue connector on the side of the manifold - That's the Cold Start valve.
Hope this helps. My car wouldnt start about an hour after driving, seems like the Thermotime switch is faulty, because I plugged out the Blue connector - Problem solved.
The 6 is the cold start valve - not the WUR - the WUR is the green thing.
So 5 is the Thermo Time switch?
The problem is my car stuggles when cold - but thats cos the WUR is faulty. I think its compounded cos something else might be wrong - and hence why I want to check it all out. some wires have broken from age and I fix as I can ....
If 6 is the cold start valve, the connector should be blue, not white (Grey). Yes 5 is the thermo time switch. The Warm up valve connector should be White (Grey)
This is the colours as from the book.:
Thermotime switch: green/white + red/black
Cold Start Valve: green/white + black
This is the coulours on my Car (1800 16V):
1: Green/Red
2: Yellow/Red
3: Very dirty - looks like Blue/White could be wrong
4:Brown/Black
5:White + Black/Red (Brown Connector)
WUR: Red + Brown (White actually Gray connector)
6:White + Black (Blue connector)
Ok. 1,2,3 is water temp sensors. They are used for the cluster and the other 2 for the ignition management control module.
4 is one of the oil pressure switches.
5 is the thermo time switch
6 is the cold start injector.
I have no idea what the wire colours are anymore but the plug that goes onto 5 should be brown but it could have been hacked off and another grafted on. The plug that goes onto the WUR should be either green or grey. The plug onto 6 is blue.
The cold start injector circuit is actually really simple. It takes power from out the starter - runs it through the thermo time switch and onto the cold start injector. The thermo time switch then decides depending on temp how long it will open the cold start injector while the starter is turning. When they go faulty it always seem to spray too long which floods the motor. So you either just disconnect that plug or you replace the thermo time switch. It does not get really that cold that it won't at all start in winter without it so most people just opt to leave it off. Thermo time switches arerather expensive but of course if you want it right it should be replaced.
The connection to the WUR is also just 12v on when the ignition is on - nothin fancy - it's just powering an electrical heater element that is wrapped around a bi-metal plate inside the unit.
Stephan van Tonder - Jhb - Putfontein Benoni
'05 Audi A6 3.0L TDI Avant
'09 Touareg 3l TDI
'13 VW CC 2l tdi (repair project)
'05 Touareg v10
This is my starting problem. When the car is cold - it turns - starts easily - then dies. I have to start the car 4-5 times to get it going. There is a spot where I can just press the pedal down - and she idles. If I press the pedal further she dies. The car for the first KM or 2, just doesnt go ... foot flat ... jerk splutter etc. Driveable - but not nice.
The one that concerns me is the number 3. Mine's metal plate is broken off. My water temp guage works - so perhaps this sender is responsible for the computer box and hence the erratic problems?
My WUR is also faulty as it leaks air thru the side nipple - I simply cannot find one - or when I do - I dont have the cash for it.
If I go MIC or similar - the WUR get chucked out - and so to the need for any sensors going to a computer box?
basically correct. I would say that the faulty WUR is entirely to blame for your problems. The one sensor broken off for the management will play with the timing a bit but not as much as the WUR. Yes when you go aftermarket it uses one temp sensor and some of them it comes supplied and others you can use what is available. The WUR definately gets lost in that process and so does the cold start etc.
Stephan van Tonder - Jhb - Putfontein Benoni
'05 Audi A6 3.0L TDI Avant
'09 Touareg 3l TDI
'13 VW CC 2l tdi (repair project)
'05 Touareg v10
Just some feedback - tried disconnecting the cold start valve to ensure its not the problem that Jetski was having. Car doesnt even start ....If i turn the key and keep foot flat on the petrol - it starts and dies .... obviously not that. So seems not getting enuff fuel - WUR !!
If I had to go buy that number 3 temp sensor - how the #### do I refer to it?
