Troubleshooting engine problems for dummies
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Hi all! I'm newbie but you can call me ignorant. I'm looking forward to stealing some knowledge from experts.
Ok let's get started then shall we. My boyfriend and I have a VW polo 2007 1.4 BLM. I am here as a second last resort - last being driving her off Chapman's peak!
We have owned the vehicle for almost 2 years and have spent a **** ton of money on her. She was in 3 accidents prior to us purchasing.
So apart from everything, at the moment we are having multiple issues. Hard start, very rough idle (sounds like a beetle), misfires, backfires, white smoke, cuts out when revs are low, fuel gauge doesn't always read correctly. We recently replaced the fuel filter as the clip broke and it was leaking. There is no longer a leak. You can hear the pump when you turn the car on and the injectors are all spraying. I initially thought it was a vacuum leak, but everything seems sound. I then thought map sensor, removed it and cleaned it as it has some oil on it. Put it back and the epc light came on. Pushed on the connector and it went off. Apart from that time, we have not had an epc or a check engine light come on. So we cannot tell if its an electrical or a mechanical issue.
Please be advised: my knowledge of vehicles is exclusive to issues we've had and research I've done as a result. So I kindly ask that you dumb it down a bit and be nice... Thank you.
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Re: Hi all! I'm newbie but you can call me ignorant. I'm looking forward to stealing some knowledge from experts.
Best bet would be to get a VAGCOM scan done on the vehicle and see what errors show up. Then tackle the reported errors.
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1980 - VW MK1 GT - 1.8 Carb - https://www.vwclub.co.za/forum/viewtopi ... 1&t=153861
1971 - Mitsubishi Colt 1100F - https://www.vwclub.co.za/forum/viewtopi ... 1&t=220503
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Re: Hi all! I'm newbie but you can call me ignorant. I'm looking forward to stealing some knowledge from experts.
Hello Nicole and welcome to the forum.
It is a slight pity you don't live up here in the East Rand, otherwise you could have brought the car to myself and others that could sort the car put once and for all.
Not all hope is lost though as our fellow members in the Mother city could steer you in a better direction
@THANAS @marzbars perhaps these guys could help, at very least give you a recommendation for a good mechanic that could get to the bottom of your car troubles.
Enjoy your time here and don't hesitate to come back.
It is a slight pity you don't live up here in the East Rand, otherwise you could have brought the car to myself and others that could sort the car put once and for all.
Not all hope is lost though as our fellow members in the Mother city could steer you in a better direction
@THANAS @marzbars perhaps these guys could help, at very least give you a recommendation for a good mechanic that could get to the bottom of your car troubles.
Enjoy your time here and don't hesitate to come back.
'87 Golf 1 Olde Skewl OEM+
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Re: Hi all! I'm newbie but you can call me ignorant. I'm looking forward to stealing some knowledge from experts.
We did have diagnostics done after we replaced the fuel pump but my boyfriend went through all the cables before the diagnostics as the fuel gauge wasn't working. Something obviously wasnt reconnected properly. So we got the 01314 code if I'm not mistaken. No communication to ecu, most of the codes were 013-- codes.I can send a list if it helps. Obviously at that time the car wasn't going starting and I'm not sure if that or the no communication with the ecu would interrupt any codes from coming through?
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Re: Hi all! I'm newbie but you can call me ignorant. I'm looking forward to stealing some knowledge from experts.
Thank you all for your help so far!! Truly wonderful to see so many helpful people. What we are currently sitting with is the following:
- Our Polo is idling rough but not always
- Cylinder 1 spark plug was wet and we changed the leads, still need to check the plug. Cylinder 2 plug slightly black. Remaining plugs burnt clean
- Heavy fuel smell but not as frequent as before
- Fuel gauge doesn't always work
- Slight backfire from the exhaust and sometimes the throttle body
- Sometimes hesitant pull away but fine when revs are high
Quite exhausting, No pun intended
- Our Polo is idling rough but not always
- Cylinder 1 spark plug was wet and we changed the leads, still need to check the plug. Cylinder 2 plug slightly black. Remaining plugs burnt clean
- Heavy fuel smell but not as frequent as before
- Fuel gauge doesn't always work
- Slight backfire from the exhaust and sometimes the throttle body
- Sometimes hesitant pull away but fine when revs are high
Quite exhausting, No pun intended
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Re: Hi all! I'm newbie but you can call me ignorant. I'm looking forward to stealing some knowledge from experts.
My bad sorry seems I am performing just as well as my car!
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Re: Troubleshooting engine problems for dummies
Duplicate post: https://www.vwclub.co.za/forum/viewtopi ... 0&t=224111
2014 - VW Jetta 6 - 1.6 TDi DSG
2000 - VW Golf 3.5 Cabrio - 2.0
1980 - VW MK1 GT - 1.8 Carb - https://www.vwclub.co.za/forum/viewtopi ... 1&t=153861
1971 - Mitsubishi Colt 1100F - https://www.vwclub.co.za/forum/viewtopi ... 1&t=220503
MK1 Build Register: https://www.vwclub.co.za/forum/viewtopi ... 1&t=192835
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/projectkirschwasser/
Racing is meant for the RACE track - deal with it...
2000 - VW Golf 3.5 Cabrio - 2.0
1980 - VW MK1 GT - 1.8 Carb - https://www.vwclub.co.za/forum/viewtopi ... 1&t=153861
1971 - Mitsubishi Colt 1100F - https://www.vwclub.co.za/forum/viewtopi ... 1&t=220503
MK1 Build Register: https://www.vwclub.co.za/forum/viewtopi ... 1&t=192835
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/projectkirschwasser/
Racing is meant for the RACE track - deal with it...
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Re: Troubleshooting engine problems for dummies
We did have diagnostics done after we replaced the fuel pump but my boyfriend went through all the cables before the diagnostics as the fuel gauge wasn't working. Something obviously wasnt reconnected properly. So we got the 01314 code if I'm not mistaken. No communication to ecu, most of the codes were 013-- codes.I can send a list if it helps. Obviously at that time the car wasn't going starting and I'm not sure if that or the no communication with the ecu would interrupt any codes from coming through?
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Re: Troubleshooting engine problems for dummies
You need to have another diagnosis done. Could be anything. And you can be replacing stuff just because..... Odd that the fuel tank is readying funny (is that just between starts? No additional fuel added?) Was ground strap checked from battery? Where you located? Perhaps there will be a shop who can have a look and see....
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Re: Hi all! I'm newbie but you can call me ignorant. I'm looking forward to stealing some knowledge from experts.
Don't stress. You are doing better than many others.Nicole Shepherd wrote:My bad sorry seems I am performing just as well as my car!
I think you may have a combination of problems that are messing the car around.
Some basic diagnosis need to be done to establish the health of the engine mechanically.
Get a compression test done. Second is a cylinder leakage test. The reason for this is to see if the valves and piston rings are healthy and the engine has the basic requirements to make the fuel and air pumped into it go bang.
Why I suggest this is that you mentioned that one plug keeps getting wet, only two things can do this, fuel or oil. The tests will help determine if it's oil or not and also if there isn't other problems like a blown head gasket.
Do some research on this and decide if you could DIY or not.
Also look up THANAS on Facebook and give them a call.
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Re: Troubleshooting engine problems for dummies
You need have the fault codes read, fault codes cleared, drive the car for a few km's and then have the fault codes read again if this hasn't been done. This would prevent any long standing, erroneous fault codes from popping up and help to focus on current fault codes. I also strongly suggest that you take a look at the earthing in the car, in particular the main earthing points to make sure you don't have nay issues as VAG cars can give weird behaviour when various ECU's are not seeing the required voltage due to poor earting.Nicole Shepherd wrote: ↑Fri Nov 19, 2021 11:51 am We did have diagnostics done after we replaced the fuel pump but my boyfriend went through all the cables before the diagnostics as the fuel gauge wasn't working. Something obviously wasnt reconnected properly. So we got the 01314 code if I'm not mistaken. No communication to ecu, most of the codes were 013-- codes.I can send a list if it helps. Obviously at that time the car wasn't going starting and I'm not sure if that or the no communication with the ecu would interrupt any codes from coming through?
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Daily Drive: 2014 VW Touareg 3.0 V6 TDi R-Line
Project Fes: 1982 VW Golf GLS 1.5
Project FeO: 1966 VW Type 2 Transporter Kombi Split Window
Previous Garage:
Roxy: 2015 VW Golf R
Vagon: 2005 Audi B6 A4 1.8T (140kw) Avant
Project XXXX: 1967 VW Type 3 Variant (Squareback)
Project Betty: 2005 Polo 1.9 TDI (PD130) Sportline
Weekend Warrior: 1993 Volkswagen Caddy 2.0 16v ABF on ITB's
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Re: Troubleshooting engine problems for dummies
Thank you all for your responses. Quick update. We got the car running perfectly again, after playing round with the spark plug leads. After a few day she started acting up again, so we replaced the leads, but she only got worse. Cylinder 1 is now burning dry and cylinder 3 is wet (with fuel). I believe this means there is too much fuel to air going in. We swapped cylinder 3 and 4 injectors around thinking it might be blocked she idled better for a bit but then went back. Then we swapped cylinder 3 and 4 spark plugs and again cylinder 3 came out wet. The epc light comes on now and again but goes off soon after also the fuel gauge goes up and down. On the electrical side what could be causing this? From what I've read there are a few different sensors and connectors, but I don't know which is which or where to find all of them.
We don't really have money right now for another diagnostics test. And Im a bit sceptical to spend money on it again since the last one told us absolutely nothing we didn't already know.
Again thanks for your responses, I especially appreciate the dumbed down "to make go bang". Brilliant. Also the earth ground input, will definitely look into that.
Also the backfires got so bad today that it cause the (I think he said catalytic converter cover) to came off. In case it's not it looks like the part of the exhaust/cover with the holes in it. We also bought injector cleaner as well as valve ease. She just seems to be getting worse.
We don't really have money right now for another diagnostics test. And Im a bit sceptical to spend money on it again since the last one told us absolutely nothing we didn't already know.
Again thanks for your responses, I especially appreciate the dumbed down "to make go bang". Brilliant. Also the earth ground input, will definitely look into that.
Also the backfires got so bad today that it cause the (I think he said catalytic converter cover) to came off. In case it's not it looks like the part of the exhaust/cover with the holes in it. We also bought injector cleaner as well as valve ease. She just seems to be getting worse.
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Re: Troubleshooting engine problems for dummies
Check the earthing points on the car as a start to rule out poor earthing and make sure you get decent voltage from the battery, both can cause weird issues with sensors, gauges, ECU's, etc. The 3rd cylinder being wet sounds like an injector leak but I don't have much experience with that sort of issue.
Current Garage:
Daily Drive: 2014 VW Touareg 3.0 V6 TDi R-Line
Project Fes: 1982 VW Golf GLS 1.5
Project FeO: 1966 VW Type 2 Transporter Kombi Split Window
Previous Garage:
Roxy: 2015 VW Golf R
Vagon: 2005 Audi B6 A4 1.8T (140kw) Avant
Project XXXX: 1967 VW Type 3 Variant (Squareback)
Project Betty: 2005 Polo 1.9 TDI (PD130) Sportline
Weekend Warrior: 1993 Volkswagen Caddy 2.0 16v ABF on ITB's
Daily Drive: 2014 VW Touareg 3.0 V6 TDi R-Line
Project Fes: 1982 VW Golf GLS 1.5
Project FeO: 1966 VW Type 2 Transporter Kombi Split Window
Previous Garage:
Roxy: 2015 VW Golf R
Vagon: 2005 Audi B6 A4 1.8T (140kw) Avant
Project XXXX: 1967 VW Type 3 Variant (Squareback)
Project Betty: 2005 Polo 1.9 TDI (PD130) Sportline
Weekend Warrior: 1993 Volkswagen Caddy 2.0 16v ABF on ITB's
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Re: Troubleshooting engine problems for dummies
Awesome thanks we are looking into the earthing now. That seemed like a good starting point considering the epc light is temperamental.
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Re: Troubleshooting engine problems for dummies
Pleasure It is a good starting point for anything electrical as it takes some time and elbow grease, there are a lot of stories of people spending fortunes replacing electrical components, only for the issue to be poor earthing. Good luck and keep us updated!
Current Garage:
Daily Drive: 2014 VW Touareg 3.0 V6 TDi R-Line
Project Fes: 1982 VW Golf GLS 1.5
Project FeO: 1966 VW Type 2 Transporter Kombi Split Window
Previous Garage:
Roxy: 2015 VW Golf R
Vagon: 2005 Audi B6 A4 1.8T (140kw) Avant
Project XXXX: 1967 VW Type 3 Variant (Squareback)
Project Betty: 2005 Polo 1.9 TDI (PD130) Sportline
Weekend Warrior: 1993 Volkswagen Caddy 2.0 16v ABF on ITB's
Daily Drive: 2014 VW Touareg 3.0 V6 TDi R-Line
Project Fes: 1982 VW Golf GLS 1.5
Project FeO: 1966 VW Type 2 Transporter Kombi Split Window
Previous Garage:
Roxy: 2015 VW Golf R
Vagon: 2005 Audi B6 A4 1.8T (140kw) Avant
Project XXXX: 1967 VW Type 3 Variant (Squareback)
Project Betty: 2005 Polo 1.9 TDI (PD130) Sportline
Weekend Warrior: 1993 Volkswagen Caddy 2.0 16v ABF on ITB's
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Re: Troubleshooting engine problems for dummies
Hi all. I wanted to know if anyone can please tell me what the box connected to the back of the intake manifold is. The breather pipe connects to it. We removed the breather pipe and that box, as the pipe that goes to the cone filter was a little dirty. And it was completely blocked with oil sludge. Also wanted to know if I can clean and whats advisable to use?
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Re: Troubleshooting engine problems for dummies
Paraffin works very well to dissolve oils and sludge.Nicole Shepherd wrote:Hi all. I wanted to know if anyone can please tell me what the box connected to the back of the intake manifold is. The breather pipe connects to it. We removed the breather pipe and that box, as the pipe that goes to the cone filter was a little dirty. And it was completely blocked with oil sludge. Also wanted to know if I can clean and whats advisable to use?
It also washes off with water and dries in the sun with minimal residue.
The box is an oil separator for the crankcase breather system.
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Re: Troubleshooting engine problems for dummies
Thank you to everyone, for all your great advise!!!!
So we discovered one of our piston bearings had worn down and broken. Replaced them all. One rocker broken and lifters blocked. Found the suction pipe blocked up, which I believe was the cause. Sorted all that out and did an oil change.
However, apart from the previously blocked breather box (Thanks missioner) and suction pipe, all those things had been seen to already. It didn't seem right to me. So I looked into the blockage and it was very concerning how much metal shavings I found.
I do believe we may very well have found the root of all issues though. After all that was sorted and engine reassembled we had a really bad oil leak, which we now believe is the rear main seal. When we got the vehicle, we had to replace 2 of the mounting bolts as there was only 1 in there. That being said, we discovered the engine had dropped slightly. Since straightening it out, we got the leak. So we hoping the seal may just need to be popped back in properly, as we were told they are made to out last the vehicles. But if it's taken a little damage then we will replace it.
Fingers crossed.
So we discovered one of our piston bearings had worn down and broken. Replaced them all. One rocker broken and lifters blocked. Found the suction pipe blocked up, which I believe was the cause. Sorted all that out and did an oil change.
However, apart from the previously blocked breather box (Thanks missioner) and suction pipe, all those things had been seen to already. It didn't seem right to me. So I looked into the blockage and it was very concerning how much metal shavings I found.
I do believe we may very well have found the root of all issues though. After all that was sorted and engine reassembled we had a really bad oil leak, which we now believe is the rear main seal. When we got the vehicle, we had to replace 2 of the mounting bolts as there was only 1 in there. That being said, we discovered the engine had dropped slightly. Since straightening it out, we got the leak. So we hoping the seal may just need to be popped back in properly, as we were told they are made to out last the vehicles. But if it's taken a little damage then we will replace it.
Fingers crossed.