Dicktator wiring double check

[PapaJo]

An exhaust place might be able to bend you a 180 degree 63mm pipe.

Volkspares or mrturbo should have stock.

[panic-mechanic]

Search AM tube bending. They Are in pomona. Or try NDE stainless in Germiston. They sell dairy bends. You mark them where you wan it welded and either tack it and get it welded by a tig welder or exhaust shop.

[Zoltan2222]

I dont travel to jhb much (never) so I try and use suppliers in the Vaal.
Only thing I could find was a damn 180° silicone bend (black instead of blue like the rest) so I will try and make it work for now.
Hopefully it sirvives the dyno, in the meanwhile I am still searching and have people helping me search.
FTF does not have much by the way

Sent from my PRA-LA1 using Tapatalk

[Zoltan2222]

Okay no pipes come off on 2nd run, boost went up to 0.7/0.8 could not see exactly.
Did it a few times trying to pop a pipe and nothing. All seems good except for timing or something, as soon as I start accelerating it jerks, it has not seen a dyno so I assume its timing.
Very close now

Sent from my PRA-LA1 using Tapatalk

[PapaJo]

Think it is time for a tune. Don’t boost too much until dynoed.

[Zoltan2222]

Ja, I am done for now, going to do one run tonight with a mechanic buddy, maybe his expert ear hears something that mine misses, and then I will lock it up with chains and wait till the weekend to fo the exhaust.
Next week I must take a day off to get it tuned

Sent from my PRA-LA1 using Tapatalk

[PapaJo]

Ja, I am done for now, going to do one run tonight with a mechanic buddy, maybe his expert ear hears something that mine misses, and then I will lock it up with chains and wait till the weekend to fo the exhaust.
Next week I must take a day off to get it tuned

Sent from my PRA-LA1 using Tapatalk

Waking up the neighbourhood with no exhaust.....lol.

[Zoltan2222]

Yessss!!
Tomorrow is D-day, at 07H30 the caddy has an appointment with the specialist
How all goes well and nothing brakes on the dyno.

Sent from my PRA-LA1 using Tapatalk

[PapaJo]

Yessss!!
Tomorrow is D-day, at 07H30 the caddy has an appointment with the specialist
How all goes well and nothing brakes on the dyno.

Sent from my PRA-LA1 using Tapatalk

Exciting times!!!!!

[Zoltan2222]

Nervous reckless excitement ja

Sent from my PRA-LA1 using Tapatalk

[panic-mechanic]

braking in the dyno - OK. Breaking on the dyno. Not ok.

[PapaJo]

braking in the dyno - OK. Breaking on the dyno. Not ok.

[Zoltan2222]

She made it, but the injector duty cycle is holding me back now.
Can this be due to the pump or something except the injectors?
But I am happy my first build survived the dyno.

Left is the BHP and right is the torque.

Nou jeuk my gat vir meer.



Sent from my PRA-LA1 using Tapatalk

[PapaJo]

Nice sleeper.

[panic-mechanic]

132 hp should be nowhere near 90% dury cycle unless you used mp9 injectors.

[PapaJo]

132 hp should be nowhere near 90% dury cycle unless you used mp9 injectors.

Std AGU injectors on his motor.

[panic-mechanic]

No then there is a snafu somewhere.

[444Funec]

Okay, so its not the coil, plug or injector. Seems either wiring or map. If i move the connector to cyl 2 the problem mobes with it. If I move the connector to cyl 4,the engine hardly starts and unplugging either injector 3 or 4, has little impact.

I assume the coils are negative trigger, if I use a multimeter on continuety I get a solid connection between ground and pin1 (trigger) on the connector of coil 3. All others are open, if I disconnect the dicktator quad module and do the same test, pin1 on coil 3 is open to ground.

Sent from my PRA-LA1 using Tapatalk

Sorry to jump in here, how did you get the rev counter to work? I’ve just installed a 60/2 on my agu. The drawing says use the black / blue wire but the rev counter won’t read. It’s a prosport Guage

[Zoltan2222]

Hey man, I am not an expert here but wil try and help. If I remember correctly you need to find the middle wire on your distributor and connect that to pin 4 on the dicktator, I will see if I can find my notes that I made while I was wiring to double check. Not sure how you will connect an aftermarket rev counter

Sent from my PRA-LA1 using Tapatalk

[panic-mechanic]

Aftermarket rev counter needs to state if it is a 5v device or one meant for coil negative. If a 5v device you simply connect it to the rpm output from the dictator. Some want a little volt up so put a 2k2 resistor to 12v if that is what it wants. Very hard to actually help you with the amount of detail you supply.

[Sai#notorious]

Use the 4 pin water temp sender As per mp9.

What if u use the 2pin

[PapaJo]

Use the 4 pin water temp sender As per mp9.

What if u use the 2pin

Using a 2 pin is fine for the Dicktator too, but then you need a second sensor to indicate temperature on dash gauge. Using 4 pin gives you the flexibility to use 2 of the 4 pins for the ecu and the other 2 pins for the dash temp gauge. The 4 pin sensor has 2 individual sensors in it.

[Sai#notorious]

Thanx, seems I finally found a thread on it as well, just to be sure, I take pin 4 on sensor to pin 2 on dicktator and Pin 2 on the sensor to pin 9 or 10 on dicktator. I leave pin 1 and 3 on the sensor as is for the cluster to work?

Sent from my PRA-LA1 using Tapatalk

Yes

The temperature switch should be 4 pin or 2 pin Bru plz help me out

[Sai#notorious]

Howzit bru that temperature switch should it be 4 pin or 2pin