Dicktator wiring double check

[PapaJo]

Yes, if I did not make a mistake that is how I wired the TPS, and then I put 12V switched on pin 1 of the TPS and pin 2 on the TPS I connected to pin 18 on the dicktator to have idle control.
What is pin 3 and 4 on the TPS for?

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No idea. Best to get a pinout diagram of the TPS. Remember to calibrate TPS once all is wired up.

[mike65]

Is wiring colours the same as this?

Throttle Body
Connector: Black (6 pin)
1: Purple with red stripe
2: Green with purple stripe
3: Red with purple stripe
4: Purple with red stripe
5: Brown with purple stripe
6: Grey with brown stripe

Check this with a multimeter first before you wire it up.
1:Bottom left on the flat side of connector
Pin 1 5v tach ref
2:Top left on the flat side of connector
Pin 2 Signal
Pin 3 Earth

[Zoltan2222]

Once the bakkie is mobile I am taking it for mapping, and the tuner said he will do all the calibration etc (I hope he really does).

The connector I have is a 8pin with pin 6 not used. I will have to check the colors tonight, but I did check that pin, 5,7 and 8 are indeed the variable resistor. And also it ohms change gradually over the full position of the throttle

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[panic-mechanic]

Uhm - turbo charged motor. You cannot run it on tps. You need to run it on MAP. so you are wasting your time connecting the tps.

[Zoltan2222]

Ag f0c, its allready connected, do I need to disconnect it again or can I just leave it? I assume the tuner will just ignore using it.

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[Zoltan2222]

On that note, the dicktator 60-2 had its own MAP sensor, I do not need to fit one somewhere?

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[PapaJo]

You can leave the TPS wiring. Just change setting from TPS to MAP on main page and connect vacuum line to intake.

[PapaJo]

On that note, the dicktator 60-2 had its own MAP sensor, I do not need to fit one somewhere?

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Use the one inside ecu.

[Zoltan2222]

Okay, so finally started the engine last night, seems coil no3 is dead, will do fault finding tonight.
But its seems the rest is good, rev counter works, speedo works, etc etc.
So danm happy
Very close to getting finished.
Anyhow, if the coil is dead, which aftermarket brand is good?

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[PapaJo]

Okay, so finally started the engine last night, seems coil no3 is dead, will do fault finding tonight.
But its seems the rest is good, rev counter works, speedo works, etc etc.
So danm happy
Very close to getting finished.
Anyhow, if the coil is dead, which aftermarket brand is good?

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Do faultfinding, might be a bad connection somewhere. Check coil resistance values to resistance values on the other coils. Did you switch coils around to check if fault moved?

Get same make and type as current one. Mostlikely Beru nake and you can get them from GW.

[Zoltan2222]

Okay, so its not the coil, plug or injector. Seems either wiring or map. If i move the connector to cyl 2 the problem mobes with it. If I move the connector to cyl 4,the engine hardly starts and unplugging either injector 3 or 4, has little impact.

I assume the coils are negative trigger, if I use a multimeter on continuety I get a solid connection between ground and pin1 (trigger) on the connector of coil 3. All others are open, if I disconnect the dicktator quad module and do the same test, pin1 on coil 3 is open to ground.

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[PapaJo]

Yes, coils are negative trigger.

[Zoltan2222]

Okay so after hours of searching it seems the brand new quad module is screwed. I wired the entire harness from the quad module backwards and then no1 coil is dead. I then tried all different sequences to fire the coils.
With every attempt the fault remains on pin 5 of the quad module.
And also only pin 5 has rings to pin 4 it seems to me like it has a dead short inside. This is a fight for tomorrow, hopefully the suppliers change it without stress as they said that dicktator has a lifetime warranty

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[PapaJo]

Quad module wiring should be the following pinout on pins:

1. Ignition output 2 wire from Dicktator, Yellow/Green
2. Coil 2 -VE
3. Coil 3 -VE
4.Engine Ground only (NOT Body Earth)
5. Coil 4 -VE
6. Coil 1 -VE
7. Ignition output 1 wire from Dicktator, Yellow/Black

Ignition output 1, Yellow/Black needs to be wired to Coil 1 & 4 -VE
Ignition output 2, Yellow/Green needs to be wired to Coil 2 & 3 -VE

So your comment "And also only pin 5 has rings to pin 4 it seems to me like it has a dead short inside." is a dead short between Coil 4 -VE and Engine Ground point on module.

Worst case if they do not replace or exchange the quad module, you can try and wire the coils in pairs with Coils 1 & 4 -VE to pin 6 (Coil 1 -VE) and wire Coils 2 & 3 -VE to pin 2 (Coil 2 -VE) on module to have wiring mimicking a Dual Dicktator module wiring. Pins 3 & 5 is not used on a Quad module.

Make 100% sure that the ENGINE GROUND from module is wired directly on to the engine block or head.

ECU setting must also be set to "Constant Charge Time", which is usually set to around 50%


Did you get the module from Autoecono?

[Zoltan2222]

The engine ground I connect on the very same spot as where the coils are grounded, made sense to connect it there for some reason.
Yes, I did get the quad module from auto econo, why?

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[PapaJo]

The engine ground I connect on the very same spot as where the coils are grounded, made sense to connect it there for some reason.
Yes, I did get the quad module from auto econo, why?

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Ground is fine where you connected it on engine at same spots as coil grounds.

Nothing wrong with Autoecono. Was thinking that you bought from them as they are Dicktator agents in the Vaal and close to where you and I stay. Bought my 60-2 from them with quad module few years back.

[Zoltan2222]

I bought my 60-2 2nd hand on olx, luckily it works fine, the quad module I bought from auto econo new.
And its dead from the start, irony.
But, auto econo gave me a repaired unit to borrow while they send mine in for repairs, as dicktator is closed untill 7 Jan 2019.
Very good service from Auto econo.

So you are also from the vaal?

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[PapaJo]

I bought my 60-2 2nd hand on olx, luckily it works fine, the quad module I bought from auto econo new.
And its dead from the start, irony.
But, auto econo gave me a repaired unit to borrow while they send mine in for repairs, as dicktator is closed untill 7 Jan 2019.
Very good service from Auto econo.

So you are also from the vaal?

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That’s good service from them. All sorted now and now missing anymore.

I stay in Meyerton.

[Zoltan2222]

So did my first 10km test run, and the **** flex pipe they gave me between the IC and throttle body exploded at 0.5bar althoght its rumoured to go up to 2bar.
So back to the drawing board.
But aside from that, no leak, no heat, no kak, and everything is working like before the conversion.

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[panic-mechanic]

sorry what. Flexible hose like that will never hold boost. You'll have to build a proper pipe there

[PapaJo]

sorry what. Flexible hose like that will never hold boost. You'll have to build a proper pipe there

Agree with panic. Get a proper boost pipe.

Well done on getting all done and driving.

[Zoltan2222]

School fees paid there, trying to get a 90° 45° and 180° silicone hose today, then I should be able to make a pipe.
It felt so awesome that 2sec of boost.
Want to really finish now.

Thanks PapaJo

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[PapaJo]

What size pipe do you need?

[panic-mechanic]

Why. Need silicone hose to join out from cooler to steel pipe and from steel pipe onto throttle body. make that one a hose with that bellows / bubble to allow the movement. rest do in steel. those many clamped joins will also bite you in the ass at some point.

[Zoltan2222]

I only wanted to buy each angle to see which fits better, seems that a 90 on the IC and a 45 on the throttle body will do, but now I need a 180° steel elbow to fit into the silicone hoses. Hopefully I will have that sorted tomorrow.
It looked like an easy (just 90) elbow at first, but the IC and TB os so close that nothing fits, so this heavy roller-coaster needs to be build.

Luckily from the turbo to the IC its only 2 bends and the short piece to connect steel pipe and IC.

Any ideas on where in the Vaal I will be able to buy a steel 63mm 180° bend?

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