hydraulic Clutch on 020 Citi Golf

[-=sT3V3=-]

Hey guys,

Due to some free time I started looking into hydraulic clutch for my golf. Clutch cables as we know can be a pain..

Has anyone else thought of these?
System would use a pull type slave with any master either under the dash or on the firewall. Cost is around 50$ for the slave



opinions?

[Disconostic]

I have one off those pull type slave cylinders with the same intention to use it on a 020 box. I will be doing the conversion over December if all goes well.

There is also n place in Pinetown that sells it for about 1,5k if I remember correctly - I will search for the company name..... Can't remember now..... They do all kinds of parts for sandmasters and rally cars. > okay found them > Dirt sport components in Pietermaritzburg.


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[Duck]

Best way to convert a 020 box to hydraulic is to get the 5th gear housing from the MK4 1.6.
The arm is already made for the hydraulic cylinder and there is no trial and error.

[-=sT3V3=-]

Thanks guys, I saw the Mk4 option but it funks with the engine mount which might add more $$$

installing a master/slave combo might also be simplier

[-=sT3V3=-]

Finally got this done. (images hosted on facebook)

[saxo]

Did you import the slave cylinder?

[-=sT3V3=-]

jip, Slave is for a baja bug/beetle did a little machining on the end to make it fit a new 20mm hole where the clutch cable sat on the gearbox.

[Barney]

makes me sad - really should get round to fitting the box and setup to the cabrio

[Ageless_ZA]

makes me sad - really should get round to fitting the box and setup to the cabrio

@Barney Just sell the POS, you're never going to do it.

[Barney]

OK then make a post for it and sell it

[saxo]

jip, Slave is for a baja bug/beetle did a little machining on the end to make it fit a new 20mm hole where the clutch cable sat on the gearbox.

If you dont mind me asking, where did you get it from?

[-=sT3V3=-]

I have the box for the cylinder @ home ill have to double check where its from again. (been sitting on my shelf for ages)

[panic-mechanic]

Soo after the three year wait and the work you put in do a review.
Besides the obvious save the firewall advantage.
1) is the clutch REALLY soft (which is why I assume people do it.
2) does it have better feel?.
3) was it worth the trouble and money?
anything else you can think of?.
is it a normal clutch or something like a high Hp setup with the double diapraghm pressure plate?.

[-=sT3V3=-]

I can give feedback on running it this week so far, a few pros and cons...

the slave-lever-lever-bearing-pushrod combo needs a fair bit of play to insure the clutch engages lekker. This makes the clutch pedal seem loose *Cough* "looser" and wastes pedal travel -> master movement
POS pedal still creeks. (albeit less)
the 2L 16V master cylinder im using isnt adjustable which is a pain - position of the master and clutch pedal pivot hole have to be dead on - or mechanically adjustable (im using oversized/ovaled hole and clamping with friction nuts on the clutch pedal pivot point)

operation is smooth - previous cables feels like dragging a chain on the ground, ie grindy. now its well... not. Cant say its much easier - dont think my previous GW 90Degree + short cable setup as working too bad. (that was tweaked and very well oiled)

If this mod was a lot cheaper and users could keep their right hand vent I would recommend it, maybe a different master mounted along the steering shaft and a non-import slave.

to give an idea on costs-
R580 braided clutch pipe
R600 odd master from GW
R1000 slave (60 dollars at the time)
R120 reservoir
R150 welding charge

The shitigolf is using the 1800 clutch (210mm if i recall) which is think is not so lekker - much heavier than other golf and stage 1 honda clutches.

So.....
Not worth it - most people wont keep their golfs for 10 years like me

[-=sT3V3=-]

So my opinion has been updated, yesterday I had a weird feeling on the pedal and it started sticking.
Turns out my angle on the master cylinder was out a little and caused the shaft to bind, fixed that with a m6 washer and pedal pivot adjustment.
Also oiled the pivot bush.

Clutch is completely different, feels like a modern car. (yay my clutch is not ****)

[VAG Fan]

Layman's question.

Looking at the master cylinder setup, is it not a problem that the pedal connection makes an arc, while the master rod moves in a line? Or is the conrod hinged on the piston, much like an engine conrod?

[Killerwatt]

You say that the entire system needs a lot of play to make it work?
Have you at least sized the cylinders and calculated the mounting positions from the pivot points to make sure that the stoke from the hydraulic system is the same as it would have been on a cable system?

[-=sT3V3=-]

The pedal Connection arc is the tough part to guess before the bracket is welded - which is what i had wrong. My angle was off too much, managed to correct that by shimming the master, changing its angle and stopping the binding.

The master has about 4-6mm of play in it and the lever on the slave end needs 12mm according to book. (i have this down to around 4mm and everything seems fine)

The slave I used is below, its not perfect for the job and took a few tweaks(machining and shaft extension) to get it working lekker now.

https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/ ... /overview/

perhaps someone knows where these could be made locally and we could metric it and include the tweaks?

(I did size the pistons which was tricky as the only slave I could find didnt leave much margin for error)

An addition note- now that there is no binding on the master the slack is less extreme as the pedal is a lot lighter

[Mk12009]

Hi, i want to do the same but the pictures posted are not showing anymore can you please repost

[saxo]

It is not a cheap conversion, drop me a dm I can assist.

[Mk12009]

It is not a cheap conversion, drop me a dm I can assist.

Thanks man will do!

Typical of a new Enlist I did not setup my notifications settings properly which is the reason for the snail respone time.

I almost started with the mod but I gave up after not finding a slave cylinder 100% fit for purpose. There were two problems

1. The problem you mentioned below in which the clutch disengage fork goes up at an angle which I was going to solve by using a cylinder with a ball joint as pictured

the slave-lever-lever-bearing-pushrod combo needs a fair bit of play to insure the clutch engages lekker. This makes the clutch pedal seem loose *Cough* "looser" and wastes pedal travel -> master movement
POS pedal still creeks. (albeit less)
the 2L 16V master cylinder im using isnt adjustable which is a pain - position of the master and clutch pedal pivot hole have to be dead on - or mechanically adjustable (im using oversized/ovaled hole and clamping with friction nuts on the clutch pedal pivot point)

2. And this is the one that deterred me; all clutch slave cylinders I've seen are for horizontal mounting which have the bleed screw on the belly facing up when cylinder is mounted which is how it should be as air will escape easily when bleeding. But if you mount it vertically you won't get all the air out when bleeding as air will be trapped at the top the cylinder

I considered a gearbox that came with hydro clutch but I also thought the total cost is not justifiable unless I can push a 2.0l 8v to over 300 horsepower - which is at the point I should upgrade a gearbox I am told

Any ideas on problem number 2

[saxo]

This is your solution:

[Mk12009]

100%

Which gearbox is this?

[saxo]

From mk4, but you can fit only the end housing if you want.

[Mk12009]

Kwl