Turbo bug - Costing and advice

Post Reply
Chaz

Post by Chaz »

Hi

The Turbo has bitten. After looking at the feasibilty of a 2nd hand Porsche and beng advised to maybe look at a Nissan 200ZX ... i went and found one and test drove it.

Specs say 126KW .... man .... what a feeling ... not that much power (more than my 1.8 by a bit and a half) but everything about it .... the grin on my face says it all.

As an option I can keep my car (better the devil you know) and I can maybe get Zabka to build me a 2.0 lt 16 V turbo motor. The idea would be to donate him my 1.8 head for gasflowing and fitment. There was something else off the 1.8 that could be used - cant remeber.

If I turbo - is it worth going 2.0? Is there a vast difference with a 1.8 and 2.0? Or is this often done as the motor is out anyways for the compression drop - so its worth it?

What I would like is either my 1.8 with a Turbo - or a 2.0 with a Turbo ... not something thats gonna break gearboxes, just something that will give most guys a run. Is there any ways to get the bottom end power of a 16V increased using a Turbo - or is that why it is adviseable to goto 2.0? What about using cams to push the power peak down and then the Turbo to bring it up again?

Some form of management system would be better - my KJET works - but the WUR is broken and makes for intersting starting.

Costs estimate on taking my 1.8 and turbo?
Costs estimate on taking it to 2.0 and turbo?

With me doing the work? With Tony doing it ?

Thanks !
Chaz

Post by Chaz »

Bump :p
Slowboat
Lieutenant
Posts: 1004
Joined: 21 years 8 months
Location: Gauteng

Post by Slowboat »

Hi

If going for a turbo, I would go for a 2.0L 16V motor. It runs very well with a turbo. Far better than the 8V. It is also better to go for a 2.0L as you won't get much of a turbo lag as the 1.8L. Stay with standard cams for the turbo and get a management system to replace the K-Jet. As for the gearbox, you can leave as standard and it shouldn't give trouble, But once again it depends on your driving style. If snap change and wheel spin all the time, your gearbox and drive shafts will break.

Speak to the guys at Topsport.

Cheers
If you're behind, you're slow. If you're in front, you're in my way.

Image
B.O.B. (JHB)
Lieutenant
Posts: 1509
Joined: 21 years 8 months
Location: Randburg

Post by B.O.B. (JHB) »

You want to go turbo now, but I thought you wanted to sell your Golf because of financial reasons and wanted something more reliable? ???
Mazda 3 2.0i Dynamic - Full House
Membership #: 0233
Mail: bbottin@gmail.com
Image
monzared
Cadet
Posts: 430
Joined: 21 years 8 months
Location: Melbourne

Post by monzared »

I'm no expert but, as I understand it, its worth it to go to 2.0 since the block will be out to lower the compression ratio. You would also probably swop the pistons from 1.8 16v to 2.0 8v to obtain the correct ratio (I think Stephan's baby runs this set-up). Given possible turbo lag problems at low rpm, it also probably better to have the 2.0 just to add that little bit of extra torque. Of course once you go mullet :D and decide you want even more power, you'd probably curse yourself for not going 2.0 when you had the chance...

As for cost, I would guess that the turbo, manifolds, injectors, fuel rail, management system, intercooler and other assorted hardware, together with dyno tuning to optimise the setup, is going to cost more than R20,000. Personally, if I was looking for such I setup I'd budget for R30,000 because there may be other upgrades that become necessary - larger rims and tyres, VR6 brakes disks and calipers, single headlight debadged gill, but I digress ;)

Either way, good luck. I think that phoning Topsport should be yor first step...
2006 Hyundai Tucson (oops)
ex: 2002 VW CitiGolf 1.6i
ex: 1998 VW Golf VR6
ex: 1991 VW Golf GTi 16v Exec
ex: 1991 VW Golf GTi 16v
Chaz

Post by Chaz »

Good memory BOB. I did have some major financial constraints (still pending) - but I have managed to get some contract work in Nigeria doing Hardware and Network support for the upcoming Nigerian Voters Roll and then later election. It pays in Dollars and is not bad at all ...

So when I return I should have around R30K saved up at least after the normal day to day expenses - then can decide what to do.

Either just spend a bit and fix the few small items - or do the full monty - to go to a 2.0 16V - but I deep down that a turbo will be next on the cards. I can timagine driving a 120KW car if I could maybe see 160-200KW.
82-1029174268

Post by 82-1029174268 »

I'm also no expert with working hands on with motors, but I do know if u don't have the xperience or the time or money to do it yourself, then don't.

You'll have to do a few chassis mods, like monza said(Susp.,brakes,etc.). 1.9 is also a good option. I know Robbie(Mactrix bakkie) has a 1.9 16V Turbo. Runs very nice! Oh yeah, go to Topsport, their turbo mods is very good.
Chaz

Post by Chaz »

Hi

I will most likely use Topsport or Zabka or one of the recommended guys.

Wonder what thumb suck costs will be for complete new 2.0 16V with a turbo and management system to push some decent power - still drivable - but enuff to piss off your average fast car on the road.
B.O.B. (JHB)
Lieutenant
Posts: 1509
Joined: 21 years 8 months
Location: Randburg

Post by B.O.B. (JHB) »

Chaz, good to hear. All the best to you. :D
Mazda 3 2.0i Dynamic - Full House
Membership #: 0233
Mail: bbottin@gmail.com
Image
Chaz

Post by Chaz »

Thanks BOB ...
Rabbit16v
VWCSA Member
Posts: 1664
Joined: 21 years 8 months
Membership No: 63
Location: Centurion (Gauteng)

Post by Rabbit16v »

Chaz wrote:Hi

I will most likely use Topsport or Zabka or one of the recommended guys.

Wonder what thumb suck costs will be for complete new 2.0 16V with a turbo and management system to push some decent power - still drivable - but enuff to piss off your average fast car on the road.
You can bargain on 20000-30000 if you have it done right.
Chat to Topsport if you want to turbo !!!!
BOOST - The ONLY replacement for displacement.
Post Reply