MK1 Rear brake regulator/compensator

[AlexTDi]

Hi Guy's

I'll be fitting the rear Koni coils on my Mk1 Golf this weekend, I've read up abit and apparently the rear brake regulator will need to be adjusted due to the car being a bit lower and I also just want to make sure it is set right so that it doesn't suddenly lock when i have extra people at the back or under heavy braking.

Anyone done this before or perhaps know how it should be set?

I do know the spring connects to a sliding nut & bolt, any idea how far along it should sit on the slider?

[AlexTDi]

Thanks for chasing Panic away guys! He would of already posted a response

[UDC]

I've lowered and raised and lowered my car a few times already and has never fiddled with the brake bias, brakes never locked up once with or without load, even on track day.

[AlexTDi]

I've lowered and raised and lowered my car a few times already and has never fiddled with the brake bias, brakes never locked up once with or without load, even on track day.

Thanks for the respone bud, It could be the case on your car but it's definitely adjustable for a reason thats why i want to have it set right.
I'm just trying to avoid an issue where i can.

[vdub caddy]

Same on my brothers car, and it sits quite low.

Never had any lockup issues or any instability.

[Torker]

Standard 80's Mk1 with high and soft suspension had quite a bit of weight transfer under heavy braking, causing the back to go 'light' and locking up the rear wheels. Stiffer and lower suspension negates this to a large extent, keeping more weight on the back wheels. My Velo came without the compensator and even after fitting disks in the back I never had a problem (with coilies and bigger front disks)

[ScottiesKJ]

Set the whole thing mid way with car having half a tank of fuel and a spare tyre in the wheel well , remember to set it with the car on the deck , spring should be just under tension .

axle in lowered position ( wheels on the deck )
regulator is adjusted "as above" & the regulator lever is gently pressed against the actuator
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qvDRn3anuuE
video-2
axle is in raised position ( wheels of the deck )
the lever has now adjusted itself away from the actuator
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0-13p4pqD9Y

[panic-mechanic]

Ag i decided to come back anyway despite some little shithead.
Install your bits and go for a drive. If the rear locks up under ahrd braking then look at adjusting. If not forget about it. Those things are often not worth whatbtheybare supposed to do anyway and lots of citi/mk1 came without then s well.

[ScottiesKJ]

@panic Is it not true as well that to avoid locking up at the rear with rear disk's and no regulator/compensator to make your brake lines at the back equal length? That way making breaking to each disk equal pressure

[panic-mechanic]

The two rears are independent and brake line length will have almost no effect at all. If younwere using air then maybe yes but on a hydraulic system it will make basically no difference the couple of cm they can differ. Rear lockup is usually caused by the rear having too much braking power or by something being wrong.

[AlexTDi]

Standard 80's Mk1 with high and soft suspension had quite a bit of weight transfer under heavy braking, causing the back to go 'light' and locking up the rear wheels. Stiffer and lower suspension negates this to a large extent, keeping more weight on the back wheels. My Velo came without the compensator and even after fitting disks in the back I never had a problem (with coilies and bigger front disks)

I've seen it happen on Citi's alot the whole front dips and the back locks up almost instantly, Thanks for the insight and i'm glad i have a stiff-ass low suspension!

Same on my brothers car, and it sits quite low.

Never had any lockup issues or any instability.

Guess the low sorts out the issue on his car.

Set the whole thing mid way with car having half a tank of fuel and a spare tyre in the wheel well , remember to set it with the car on the deck , spring should be just under tension .

axle in lowered position ( wheels on the deck )
regulator is adjusted "as above" & the regulator lever is gently pressed against the actuator
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qvDRn3anuuE
video-2
axle is in raised position ( wheels of the deck )
the lever has now adjusted itself away from the actuator
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0-13p4pqD9Y

Thats the answer i was looking for just under tension roughly mid way, thanks for the videos

Ag i decided to come back anyway despite some little shithead.
Install your bits and go for a drive. If the rear locks up under ahrd braking then look at adjusting. If not forget about it. Those things are often not worth whatbtheybare supposed to do anyway and lots of citi/mk1 came without then s well.

Well welcome back, I guess a test drive will be the only way I must just watch out for the popo

[RoadHaWg]

FWIW I never had a problem with the rears locking at that height (much lower than stock already)

I miss those Koni shocks man. Beat the hell out of JOM.

[Neuk]

Never had an issue myself Alex, even with Fes fully loaded...

[ScottiesKJ]

The two rears are independent and brake line length will have almost no effect at all. If younwere using air then maybe yes but on a hydraulic system it will make basically no difference the couple of cm they can differ. Rear lockup is usually caused by the rear having too much braking power or by something being wrong.

OK then what cause's the left rear to lock up once disk's have been fitted? Reason i ask is a guy i know have had it done and if he braked hard the left rear locks up right away? and has cause the car to spin. Could it be a faulty cylinder?

When i had mine done many years back they did equal length lines as they said "this will prevent this" Ive always just believed this as the car has never locked up on me ever.

Thats the answer i was looking for just under tension roughly mid way, thanks for the videos

Pleasure hope you come right

[panic-mechanic]

On disc conversion the rear sometimes has too much braking and you moght find they did something wrong. You'll also perhaps find the the right front of his car was not good, ie. shock had failed or spring low or he weighed like maybe 200ks so the crossover weight was really bad. You can't say unless one do a bit of a rear look at something whenmit happens.

[AlexTDi]

FWIW I never had a problem with the rears locking at that height (much lower than stock already)

I miss those Koni shocks man. Beat the hell out of JOM.

cool and you drove the exact car properly so it should be fine

Yea these Koni's are the best!

Never had an issue myself Alex, even with Fes fully loaded...

I hear you drive like little miss daisy too

*runs and hides*

[ScottiesKJ]

or he weighed like maybe 200ks

Thanks for the info Panic learn something new everyday

[MarshallGTi]

as long as you're not going so low as to pull the seals out of place on the bias adjuster causing a leak, then fiddling with it shouldn.t be necessary

[buggyfan]

Those things are often not worth what they are supposed to do anyway and lots of citi/mk1 came without them as well.

@Panicmechanic
ON my 94' Fox it started to leak from the bias valve. Is there a kit to replace the rubbers or should it be replaced as a whole or can it be deleted all together.
Thx Jaco

[panic-mechanic]

Yes there is a rebuild kit
Yes you can replace it as a whole
No don't delete it unless you rpalce it with something else that is adjustable.