golf 4 tdi cambelt kit

[cmpelser]

Got myself a cambelt kit from goldwagen today! The one without the waterpump. If all goes well, I'll atempt to replace it this long weekend.
Any tips???
How long on ave. Should it take to insall (this will be my first one)
And how to do the vag-com timing?

[Killerwatt]

Not too difficult to do bud.
Helps if you have a diy or a haynes availible. Should takea good few hours, but it's not a job you want to rush.
Only problem I had doing mine on the 1.8t is the engine mount is a bit tricky to get out. But with some jacking of the motor it comes out ok.
Otherwise, just make sure you keep the sprockets at TDC and you should be good.

[SilverFox]

Have a look at this http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/a4/a ... -index.htm for an excellent timing belt DIY.
You need to register on site and make a post in order to view the second part of the timing belt job. The injection pump timing via vagcom is explained in part 2.
The correct way of doing the timing belt involves removing of the camshaft sprocket and loosening of the pump sprocket. You will see that it is not as 'simple' as a 1.8T job.

A few specials tools are needed to do the job, but you can also have a look at this video for some shortcuts and tips http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=276rVBGQloQ
Use at own risk. I have done my timing belt about a month ago without any special tools. Have to say that the job would have been easier with the special tools.

Other people have done the timing belt without removing the camshaft sprocket, but lots of people advise against it. I didn't use a puller, just knocked it of with a punch. Hole for the punch was already in the cover on my car.

Good luck.

[MK2 G60]

Make sure you lock the pump and losen the three bolts on it.
Lock the back of the cam shaft at vacume pump side and losen off the sprocket.
Make sure the cranckis on its mark on the fly wheel side.

[cmpelser]

Thanks guys! I'm half way there. Yesterday I stipped everything, today I'm putting it all back together. It is quite a job!!!
One thing I noticed with removal of the old belt is that the tensioner was tightened the wrong way, (anti-clockwise)!!!
From what I've seen its got to be tensioned clock-wise.

[cmpelser]

Pump is locked with a 6mm dril bit and the three bolts are loose.
I got the cam shaft locked with a 4.5mm allen key, fits nice and snug in the groove and level with the top of the head.

I got some new bolts in the kit, I think one is for the large roller and one is for the small roller.
Then I got 2 new studs, do I need to change these studs??? One looks like the tensioner stud, and the other is the small roller stud.
Also my torque wrench is in NM what bolts need torquing and how much?

[Tdi jetta 4 ever]

Pump is locked with a 6mm dril bit and the three bolts are loose.
I got the cam shaft locked with a 4.5mm allen key, fits nice and snug in the groove and level with the top of the head.

I got some new bolts in the kit, I think one is for the large roller and one is for the small roller.
Then I got 2 new studs, do I need to change these studs??? One looks like the tensioner stud, and the other is the small roller stud.
Also my torque wrench is in NM what bolts need torquing and how much?

Dont forget to loosen the cam sprocket as Morne mentioned. Will check later at home for torque settings.

[cmpelser]

Cam is loose. Had to dril a hole and I used a punch from the back of the sprocket.
Thanks for the help guys!
Hopfully want to be done by midday today.

[cmpelser]

Cambelt done! Car is running nicely, I just need to still set the pump timing with the laptop. (How long can I drive it without setting it?)
And I also need a new serpintine belt...

[Tdi jetta 4 ever]

You can run it as long as what you want as long if there is no issue with starting and power.

[cmpelser]

No problem! I've done a second belt change since this post! Please ask if you need any further info. Glad to help!

[VAG Fan]

I have a timing belt change coming up within the next two, three years... I'll keep your kind offer in mind. The one thing that seems like a challenge, is to get that engine mounting out with only a DIY set-up. No trolley jack to lift the engine... I have some random questions/comments.

1) Did the camshaft sprocket pop off relatively easily using a punch?
2) The tip to use a 4.5 mm Allen key for locking the camshaft seems very useful.
3) What did you pay for the kit (with or without water pump)?

I recently removed my VE pump to re-seal its head against the body. For re-setting the pump timing, I turned the engine forward until the 6 mm drill bit would just go into the pump, and then I used the flywheel timing mark to check the start-of-injection. Before the repair, it was about 0.5° after TDC (5 mm past TDC on the flywheel), so I advanced this slightly, as close to TDC as I could get it, and the cold start has improved significantly. I'll probably have it checked with VCDS sometime.

4) Re-fitting the spring clamp on the lower intercooler pipe fitting (below the right-hand headlight) was a REAL pain in the nuts. Any tips?

[panic-mechanic]

1) you don't HAVE to remove the sprocket and most of the time you cannot get it oof unless you remove the cam and press the damn thing in a press.
2) make decent marking and you can check the cam for 0 timing by removing the vaccum pump. The slot must be absolutley level/ parallel to the head
3)ask me at the time what we can get it for or mail breadcrumb for a price.
4) yes change it for a normal screw clamp or get the correct remote cable type clamp tool.

[VAG Fan]

Much obliged, Stephan.

Quick follow-up on no. 2:
My camshaft sprocket has obviously been removed before, because the original notch is no-where close to TDC. The only references I have are tippex marks left by the previous mechanic, i.e. I can only return the sprocket to the closest tooth.
So if one leaves the sprocket on the camshaft, it could be mis-timed up to half a tooth early or late. How sensitive is valve timing for such errors?

[panic-mechanic]

If it was moved before then sure you rather want to correct it. But believe me they don't just jump off.

[Tdi jetta 4 ever]

Much obliged, Stephan.

Quick follow-up on no. 2:
My camshaft sprocket has obviously been removed before, because the original notch is no-where close to TDC. The only references I have are tippex marks left by the previous mechanic, i.e. I can only return the sprocket to the closest tooth.
So if one leaves the sprocket on the camshaft, it could be mis-timed up to half a tooth early or late. How sensitive is valve timing for such errors?

Is there a notch on your cam shaft sprocket ? You can put the sprocket in any position as long as your cam is locked in place and the sprocket can turn freely with the bolt that holds the sprocket to the cam is loose. Just double check the crank mark is still on its mark. Then when the crank, pump and cam is still on their marks then tighten the tensioner and the cam bolt. Check the marks again then turn the engine about 2 to 3 rotations and check the marks again.

[VAG Fan]

Thanks to both of you.

Robin, yes, I was rather surprised to see it, too! But there definitely is a notch. It's a radial line that is scored / pressed into the side of the sprocket that faces the suspension dome. My cam cover is still off, so I might take a quick snapshot and post it here. In my case, at TDC for cyl. 1, the notch was at about 8:00 when looking from the dome onto the sprocket

Given the conical fitting without any key, I'm not sure why VW notched that sprocket... And anyway, I couldn't find any markings on the inside cam cover that one could use to align the notch to.

[Tdi jetta 4 ever]

Thanks to both of you.

Robin, yes, I was rather surprised to see it, too! But there definitely is a notch. It's a radial line that is scored / pressed into the side of the sprocket that faces the suspension dome. My cam cover is still off, so I might take a quick snapshot and post it here. In my case, at TDC for cyl. 1, the notch was at about 8:00 when looking from the dome onto the sprocket

Given the conical fitting without any key, I'm not sure why VW notched that sprocket... And anyway, I couldn't find any markings on the inside cam cover that one could use to align the notch to.

Exactly
Would like to see that setup with the notch.

[panic-mechanic]

The nothch means nothing. They simply re-use an existing pulley which on another engine the marking meant something. there are no markings on the head for it to line up with and you can put it wherever you feel like if you have undone the pulley. There is even a machined keyway for a key on the cam but it was simply not used so just ignore it.

[VAG Fan]

Intuitively I would expect the sprocket also to have a machined keyway. Then at least the notch would make sense for another engine.

Anyhow, Robin, I'll take a pic just for curiosity if I get a chance.