howzit guys i just need a bit of clarity as i have heard a few different stories now.

i am converting my 8v kjet motor to EFi using a Gotech Pro V4 ecu that i bought, just to run the car for now while i build the next motor, the conversion has been done on a bit of a budget which is why im using this ECU.

Now my problem is, can this ECU run the motor using just a TPS, TP100 module and a single coil, the car has its original hall signal distributor if i am not mistaken.

Can this ECU run this simple setup?

and if possible does anybody maybe have a detailed wiring diagram? i can only find diagrams for the gotech MFI which only has 1 16 pin connector, my CU has the 16 and 12 pin connectors.

Thanks guys

Try this link: http://www.gotech.co.za/Promanual.pdf

thanks man, ive read the manual a couple times m=now, as far as i can understand there should be no problem running this setup? is it ok if i DO NOT run 60-2? i was told it wouldnt work because i am not running this but i think thats **** to be honest.

it will run your simple setup with dissy and tp100 just fine. They can even fire a coil direct if I remember right. It can read both the 60-2 and dissy setup and fire either wasted spark or single coil.

Thank you for clarifying that for me Stephen. now my next problem is the water temp sensor, can i not use a 4 pin sensor? i am struggling to find a 2 pin sensor as well as the flange to house the small sensor for the temp gauge as well as the 2 pin sensor.

young gun wrote:Thank you for clarifying that for me Stephen. now my next problem is the water temp sensor, can i not use a 4 pin sensor? i am struggling to find a 2 pin sensor as well as the flange to house the small sensor for the temp gauge as well as the 2 pin sensor.

I used the 4-pin sender in my Velo when I fitted Dicktator, two pins goes to the gauge and the other two to the AFM. In my GT I'm using the setup below, single pin sender for the OEM gauge and double pin (Audi) for the XMS AFM, the housing I bought from Goldwagon.

Thats great man thank you very much for that pic!! do you know which audi that 2 pin snesor comes off of??

young gun wrote:Thats great man thank you very much for that pic!! do you know which audi that 2 pin snesor comes off of??

GW didn't have the 2 pin sender so I went to the spares shop down the street and asked for any 2 pin sender that will fit in the housing and it turned out to be an Audi one, don't know what model tho.

Cool thanks man i will see what info i can get otherwise i will just go the 4 pin route!

u can direct fire coil,u don't need tp100,it does run distr,easy to wire,run all ground - direct to batery ,run 2 + positives threw a relay straight to batery(switch relay with wire that goes to coil + and comes from ignition switch think it's blak with white stripe) with fuse and then use the 2 + thats left for the the coil + and injector+(in the box the + are all connected so after relay switch on all red and black wires have +

why u wire all 4 -ground to the batery is that the box will spike and might drop the map on ver4 if u try to wire it threw the body,from ver6 al spiking was eliminated

and on 4 pin watertemp sensor 1 and 3 goes to management,2 and 4 one of them are brown and go to block- and other one is yellow and black i think and for dash temp gauge

Thanks for your reply man thats very handy advice, so EVERY single ground for whatever it might be i should rin straight to battery??
Are there any benefits to running TP100? i mean the only real reason why i am using it is because i already have the module!! are there any benefits??

Really no benefit except it has built in dwell control so if you dirct fire the coil you must take care of the dwell.

Dwell?? and if you dont mind can you explain to me a bit better what this rotor phasing is about!!

You should've attended Panic's PP training, then you'll know.

well unfortunately it was slap bang in the middle of my exams, so if someone wouldn't mind explaining for me.............

You need to send the trigger signal to the management long before is actually needs to fire so that it can calculate the exact and correct point to fire the coil and injectors.

Say you have 35deg total advance at most, the management needs a trigger before that, say 40deg, to be able to do the calcs and fire the coil at the exact angle.

That's what the rotor phasing is for.

young gun wrote:well unfortunately it was slap bang in the middle of my exams, so if someone wouldn't mind explaining for me.............

Rotor phasing is where you move the relationship between the trigger and the rotor so that the trigger generate the signal 40 or 50 degrees before the rotor is lined up, this allows you to play with the ignition timing on the ECU and still have the rotor lined up correctly when the coil is triggered.

Dwell is explained below:

When using very large MSD coils, whats the average dwell time? 2.5ms, 2.75ms, 4.5ms, 4.75ms? I just need an average ballpark figure.

Ok cool thank you for that, now how do i get the rotor back 40 degrees exactly? in the gotech manual it just shows a picture, i mean dare i say it do i use a protractor or something on my distributor to mark off 40 degrees??

And another question, wiring up the tp100 module, pin 6 says it is the signal FROM the ECU in the gotech book, now that wire is already running in the connector to the hall trigger, the middle pin, being the signal, is this correct or do i have to connect that to one of the pinouts on the gotech loom??

Appreciate the help guys!!

Zubair wrote:When using very large MSD coils, whats the average dwell time? 2.5ms, 2.75ms, 4.5ms, 4.75ms? I just need an average ballpark figure.

I had a quick look on the web and i found values between 1.5 and 3.5ms, depending on the setup. Try the link below, it will give info specific for your product:

http://www.msdignition.com/instructiondownload.aspx

Zubair wrote:When using very large MSD coils, whats the average dwell time? 2.5ms, 2.75ms, 4.5ms, 4.75ms? I just need an average ballpark figure.

You have test which dwell time works best using an oscilloscope.

Panic is clever at these things, will chat to him bout it when I meet him again. Thanks guys.

young gun wrote:Thanks for your reply man thats very handy advice, so EVERY single ground for whatever it might be i should rin straight to battery??
Are there any benefits to running TP100? i mean the only real reason why i am using it is because i already have the module!! are there any benefits??

on 16 pin plug take the 1 and 9 both brown to - batery, 16 and 8 + both black goes to batery + trew relay,and 15 red+ to coil and 7 red+ to injectors thats all that go to batery

on 12pin plug is for your sensors and stuff

16pin plug for injectors and coil and oprional outputs and the trigger input

young gun wrote:Ok cool thank you for that, now how do i get the rotor back 40 degrees exactly? in the gotech manual it just shows a picture, i mean dare i say it do i use a protractor or something on my distributor to mark off 40 degrees??

IIRC...
Note the position of the rotor in relation to the dizzy with the motor on TDC as per normal timing and ignition marks.
Now turn the motor 40deg back and reposition rotor in relation to dizzy as before without turning the motor, only dizzy. You might need to pull the dizzy to move it a tooth on the intermediate shaft.

young gun wrote:And another question, wiring up the tp100 module, pin 6 says it is the signal FROM the ECU in the gotech book, now that wire is already running in the connector to the hall trigger, the middle pin, being the signal, is this correct or do i have to connect that to one of the pinouts on the gotech loom??

Hall sensor output (TP100 signal input) goes to the Gotech RPM input.
Gotech ignition coil output then goes to TP100 signal input, where the hall sensor output went to.