1.8 20v turbo motors
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1.8 20v turbo motors
So tell me, is this a good motor for a citi? Maintenance? Part Availability? In modified form does it do well with more power than it currently makes?
Or would a 2L 16 turbo setup be a better option with regards to the same questions above?
It would be for a daily drive. power expectations 150kw +
Thanks
Or would a 2L 16 turbo setup be a better option with regards to the same questions above?
It would be for a daily drive. power expectations 150kw +
Thanks
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Re: 1.8 20v turbo motors
1.8 20V motors are strong and reliable. In stock form it will be very nice in a Citi
Same motor as the Mk4 and Polo GTI's.
Parts shouldn't be a problem and if looks after it will last you a long time.
And with some tweaks can make huge power.
How does over 600Hp sound?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zfviub5ToAQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3w6-zkM8h5o
Same motor as the Mk4 and Polo GTI's.
Parts shouldn't be a problem and if looks after it will last you a long time.
And with some tweaks can make huge power.
How does over 600Hp sound?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zfviub5ToAQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3w6-zkM8h5o
Ryan Demoser
1996 Mk3 Golf VR6
2017 Caddy Maxi Crew Bus 2.0 TDI
2013 Aprilia RSV4 track toy
2021 Aprilia RS660 road bike
1996 Mk3 Golf VR6
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2013 Aprilia RSV4 track toy
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Re: 1.8 20v turbo motors
Awesome bro. I was reading up on some threads here about these motors and i always had "2.0" in my mind. I see that 1.8T will do the job as well. If i go this route i wouldn't want itto be in "stock" form so will it still be a good idea?Jetta2 wrote:1.8 20V motors are strong and reliable. In stock form it will be very nice in a Citi
Same motor as the Mk4 and Polo GTI's.
Parts shouldn't be a problem and if looks after it will last you a long time.
And with some tweaks can make huge power.
How does over 600Hp sound?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zfviub5ToAQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3w6-zkM8h5o
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Re: 1.8 20v turbo motors
300hp on stock internals pretty safely.. i really dig this motor.
for swapping into a citi i believe the older motor from the audi is thene you want. cant seem to remember, i think coz it has an external waterpump like the stock citi engine.
for swapping into a citi i believe the older motor from the audi is thene you want. cant seem to remember, i think coz it has an external waterpump like the stock citi engine.
Stuart
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2006 Jeep Wrangler "Sarge"
1966 Splitty.
2014 KTM 1190 Adventure
No Mk1 ;(
"We've all been raised on television to believe that one day we'd all be millionaires, and movie gods, and rock stars. But we won't. And we're slowly learning that fact. So we build VDubs son..."
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Re: 1.8 20v turbo motors
Awesome, guess its a done deal. I could have got that motor from my Cuz who wrote his S3 off but the insurance wouldn't let me buy/have it.RoadHaWg wrote:300hp on stock internals pretty safely.. i really dig this motor.
for swapping into a citi i believe the older motor from the audi is thene you want. cant seem to remember, i think coz it has an external waterpump like the stock citi engine.
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Re: 1.8 20v turbo motors
im loving mine , for both daily driver & race car, i have the stock 1.8T with bigger turbo & bigger injectors & i i make just over 300hp @ 1.3bar boost
97 Mk1 4 door 340HP 1.8 20V turbo =>12.9 sec 400m
99 320V6 double cab on 22"s my cruiser
99 320V6 double cab on 22"s my cruiser
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Re: 1.8 20v turbo motors
I recently bought an Audi A3 1.8T & i am very impressed with this motor.
Im sure this motor in a citi would be a whole lot of fun.
Im sure this motor in a citi would be a whole lot of fun.
Current:
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Re: 1.8 20v turbo motors
howsit guys ,,,if i may add my 2c ,,,
i have a 20v turbo in my velociti road and race car as well..
using a AGU head on a 9A block ,,single coil + distributor...lol
makes 403bhp at 1.5 bar wheelspinning without the nos ,,quiet frankly i dont think i need the nos anymore ,,
u wont go wrong ,,,if its done right.
i have a 20v turbo in my velociti road and race car as well..
using a AGU head on a 9A block ,,single coil + distributor...lol
makes 403bhp at 1.5 bar wheelspinning without the nos ,,quiet frankly i dont think i need the nos anymore ,,
u wont go wrong ,,,if its done right.
Membership # : 1623
current rides :
'05 velociti, 2.0 , 20v + turbo (toy)
'84 mk1 2dr , 2.0 , 16v turbo (toy)
'05 velociti, 2.1 , 16v +48itb's +NOS (toy)
'86 caddy, 2.0 , 16v + turbo (race car)
'11 audi A4 2.0t multitronic (daily drive)
current rides :
'05 velociti, 2.0 , 20v + turbo (toy)
'84 mk1 2dr , 2.0 , 16v turbo (toy)
'05 velociti, 2.1 , 16v +48itb's +NOS (toy)
'86 caddy, 2.0 , 16v + turbo (race car)
'11 audi A4 2.0t multitronic (daily drive)
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Re: 1.8 20v turbo motors
yes that is correct it has a external water pump which allows you to use your citi engine mounts, The newer one eg from s3, a3, gti G4 ect have a internal pump and will need a new engine mount made up but isn't impossibe.RoadHaWg wrote:300hp on stock internals pretty safely.. i really dig this motor.
for swapping into a citi i believe the older motor from the audi is thene you want. cant seem to remember, i think coz it has an external waterpump like the stock citi engine.
I will have to search through my notes to see which block code the external water pump motor is!
As long as it maintained and looked after it will look after you as in any motor.
your gearbox and flywheel fits straight to this motor, is prefered if you fit a full cable shift box tho.
Mine should be up and running by end of the year.
Sweet sweet.
The main thing here is DO IT RIGHT 1ST TIME !!!!HOOSEN wrote:howsit guys ,,,if i may add my 2c ,,,
i have a 20v turbo in my velociti road and race car as well..
using a AGU head on a 9A block ,,single coil + distributor...lol
makes 403bhp at 1.5 bar wheelspinning without the nos ,,quiet frankly i dont think i need the nos anymore ,,
u wont go wrong ,,,if its done right.
CURRENT RIDE
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EX
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- 1993 1.8i CITI MP9 98HP 147NM @ KAR
NOW:2.0 ABF 117HP 158NM @Panics on XMS (SOLD)SNIFF
http://www.vwclub.co.za/phpbb3/viewtopi ... 3&t=108203
2013 VW transporter 2.0TDI
2007 Audi S3
EX
- 2014 Ford Fiesta ST
- 1993 1.8i CITI MP9 98HP 147NM @ KAR
NOW:2.0 ABF 117HP 158NM @Panics on XMS (SOLD)SNIFF
http://www.vwclub.co.za/phpbb3/viewtopi ... 3&t=108203
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Re: 1.8 20v turbo motors
Why did you go AGU Head on 9A block?HOOSEN wrote:howsit guys ,,,if i may add my 2c ,,,
i have a 20v turbo in my velociti road and race car as well..
using a AGU head on a 9A block ,,single coil + distributor...lol
makes 403bhp at 1.5 bar wheelspinning without the nos ,,quiet frankly i dont think i need the nos anymore ,,
u wont go wrong ,,,if its done right.
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MK6 GTI DSG UNITRONIC Stage2
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Re: 1.8 20v turbo motors
I thought your car was a 2.0!!Dean20VT wrote:im loving mine , for both daily driver & race car, i have the stock 1.8T with bigger turbo & bigger injectors & i i make just over 300hp @ 1.3bar boost
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Re: 1.8 20v turbo motors
what does a motor like this cost?
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Re: 1.8 20v turbo motors
The engine code for the external pump motor is APU surprisingly.
Last edited by panic-mechanic on Fri Feb 26, 2010 8:32 am, edited 1 time in total.
Stephan van Tonder - Jhb - Putfontein Benoni
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Re: 1.8 20v turbo motors
I initially had the 20v head on my standard afx (velociti 1.6i) block...we did that coz most of the people we spoke to told us we couldnt ...hahahaDemon Tweaked wrote:Why did you go AGU Head on 9A block?HOOSEN wrote:howsit guys ,,,if i may add my 2c ,,,
i have a 20v turbo in my velociti road and race car as well..
using a AGU head on a 9A block ,,single coil + distributor...lol
makes 403bhp at 1.5 bar wheelspinning without the nos ,,quiet frankly i dont think i need the nos anymore ,,
u wont go wrong ,,,if its done right.
farkers who think they know it all !!!!!! (btw- 20v head + afx block + turbo + nos = 297kw) on manny's dyno..
when i replaced the 9a block in my bakkie with a long block, i decided to change the car and make it 2.0 lt since i had a spare block.
Membership # : 1623
current rides :
'05 velociti, 2.0 , 20v + turbo (toy)
'84 mk1 2dr , 2.0 , 16v turbo (toy)
'05 velociti, 2.1 , 16v +48itb's +NOS (toy)
'86 caddy, 2.0 , 16v + turbo (race car)
'11 audi A4 2.0t multitronic (daily drive)
current rides :
'05 velociti, 2.0 , 20v + turbo (toy)
'84 mk1 2dr , 2.0 , 16v turbo (toy)
'05 velociti, 2.1 , 16v +48itb's +NOS (toy)
'86 caddy, 2.0 , 16v + turbo (race car)
'11 audi A4 2.0t multitronic (daily drive)
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Re: 1.8 20v turbo motors
not a bad figure Thanks man what turbo are you using?
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Re: 1.8 20v turbo motors
my mac that is building up my polo did this mod before in a mk1 and it made 416Hp on the wheels on stock internals no problem but they run just over 300hp on the wheels for everyday drive
Polo 20VBigT - The Redhead
Kia Sportage - The Silver Surfer
C63 507 Edition - The Dragon
Isuzu 4x4 - Little Joe
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Re: 1.8 20v turbo motors
InsaneStu wrote:my mac that is building up my polo did this mod before in a mk1 and it made 416Hp on the wheels on stock internals no problem but they run just over 300hp on the wheels for everyday drive
I would be happy with 150Kw + everyday. When i grow up i can start making more power
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Re: 1.8 20v turbo motors
Demon Tweaked wrote:not a bad figure Thanks man what turbo are you using?
its been changed so many times ,,i dont even know what to call it anymore..lol
.63 exh housing + .50 compr. housing wid a 84mm wheel.
works pretty well ,imho.
Membership # : 1623
current rides :
'05 velociti, 2.0 , 20v + turbo (toy)
'84 mk1 2dr , 2.0 , 16v turbo (toy)
'05 velociti, 2.1 , 16v +48itb's +NOS (toy)
'86 caddy, 2.0 , 16v + turbo (race car)
'11 audi A4 2.0t multitronic (daily drive)
current rides :
'05 velociti, 2.0 , 20v + turbo (toy)
'84 mk1 2dr , 2.0 , 16v turbo (toy)
'05 velociti, 2.1 , 16v +48itb's +NOS (toy)
'86 caddy, 2.0 , 16v + turbo (race car)
'11 audi A4 2.0t multitronic (daily drive)
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Re: 1.8 20v turbo motors
Last I saw one , was around 18K if I am not mistaken.Demon Tweaked wrote:what does a motor like this cost?
Darryn Van Rooyen
Current: 17 Amarok V6 D/C 4Motion H/L Auto
Current: 1987 Citi Sport 1.6
Current: 91 Citi Sport 1.3
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2008 Honda CBX250 Twister - Crashed!
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01 Yamaha YZ125
99 Toyota Tazz
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Current: 91 Citi Sport 1.3
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2008 Honda CBX250 Twister - Crashed!
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08 RS MKV GTI DSG
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Re: 1.8 20v turbo motors
RoadHawg just a quick question? I'm also doing some research on a 1.8T 20v conversion for my mk3 GTi and I just wanted to know in your opinion which engine (Golf4/Audi) will suit the mk3? I have been following the thread of Bob with his mk3 Jetta. Will it be better to fit the golf 4 gearbox too or put something together like Bob did? ABF box + vr6 flywheel etc etc?RoadHaWg wrote:300hp on stock internals pretty safely.. i really dig this motor.
for swapping into a citi i believe the older motor from the audi is thene you want. cant seem to remember, i think coz it has an external waterpump like the stock citi engine.
Ideally I would like to have my A/C to remain too...Any ideas?
vw drivers:one born every minute
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Re: 1.8 20v turbo motors
I suppose its money well i spent..i hopedazza wrote:Last I saw one , was around 18K if I am not mistaken.Demon Tweaked wrote:what does a motor like this cost?
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Re: 1.8 20v turbo motors
The motor as it comes out of the Passat /audi (APU) code has a number of issues to fit.
1) the exhaust manifold will place the turbo right on the rear engine mounting. (so you have to dumpt hte turbo and manifold and get the mk4 golf bits)
2) The intake manifold is different and unless you do some serious contortions with your plumbing it is an issue for space.
3) you cannot use the aircon/ps/belt setup as it comes on that engine and then you have to fit the mk3 bits back. Thta becomes a whole mission of it's own with trying to make drive belts work becuase the main pulley is mis aligned.
4) the oil extension housing is wrong and it tilts the filter towards the rear of the engine - on the mk3 that ends up smack on top of the front engine mounting. The oil extention housing from the mk3 fits but then you have to get a fitting to reconnect the oil supply line to the turbo as the stuff off that motor does not work.
So in my opinion - the motor out of the golf4 will be better - the only thing I don't know is if it still has the same rear engine mounting pick-up holes in the block because they are not used in the mk4 anymore.
I can't help you with your gearbox questions. I don't go to the trouble of changing rodshift boxes out to hydraulic/cable boxes and the ensuing amount of work it entails. (fitting hydraulic cylinders, manufacturing mountings swopping gear mechanisms etc.etc.) In my opinion if I want a car with cable shift and hydraulic clutch I'll buy it.
PS - engines like that go for around R12k usually minus turbo.
1) the exhaust manifold will place the turbo right on the rear engine mounting. (so you have to dumpt hte turbo and manifold and get the mk4 golf bits)
2) The intake manifold is different and unless you do some serious contortions with your plumbing it is an issue for space.
3) you cannot use the aircon/ps/belt setup as it comes on that engine and then you have to fit the mk3 bits back. Thta becomes a whole mission of it's own with trying to make drive belts work becuase the main pulley is mis aligned.
4) the oil extension housing is wrong and it tilts the filter towards the rear of the engine - on the mk3 that ends up smack on top of the front engine mounting. The oil extention housing from the mk3 fits but then you have to get a fitting to reconnect the oil supply line to the turbo as the stuff off that motor does not work.
So in my opinion - the motor out of the golf4 will be better - the only thing I don't know is if it still has the same rear engine mounting pick-up holes in the block because they are not used in the mk4 anymore.
I can't help you with your gearbox questions. I don't go to the trouble of changing rodshift boxes out to hydraulic/cable boxes and the ensuing amount of work it entails. (fitting hydraulic cylinders, manufacturing mountings swopping gear mechanisms etc.etc.) In my opinion if I want a car with cable shift and hydraulic clutch I'll buy it.
PS - engines like that go for around R12k usually minus turbo.
Stephan van Tonder - Jhb - Putfontein Benoni
'05 Audi A6 3.0L TDI Avant
'09 Touareg 3l TDI
'13 VW CC 2l tdi (repair project)
'05 Touareg v10
Perfect Power dealer. I do dyno tuning.
'05 Audi A6 3.0L TDI Avant
'09 Touareg 3l TDI
'13 VW CC 2l tdi (repair project)
'05 Touareg v10
Perfect Power dealer. I do dyno tuning.
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- VWCSA Member
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- Location: Joburg
Re: 1.8 20v turbo motors
ya. dont ask me. ask panic hehe.
Stuart
2006 Jeep Wrangler "Sarge"
1966 Splitty.
2014 KTM 1190 Adventure
No Mk1 ;(
"We've all been raised on television to believe that one day we'd all be millionaires, and movie gods, and rock stars. But we won't. And we're slowly learning that fact. So we build VDubs son..."
"Owning a MK1 varies between having sex to getting hit in the balls. Usually several times in one day."
2006 Jeep Wrangler "Sarge"
1966 Splitty.
2014 KTM 1190 Adventure
No Mk1 ;(
"We've all been raised on television to believe that one day we'd all be millionaires, and movie gods, and rock stars. But we won't. And we're slowly learning that fact. So we build VDubs son..."
"Owning a MK1 varies between having sex to getting hit in the balls. Usually several times in one day."
- Demon Tweaked
- Field Marshal
- Posts: 12701
- Registered for: 16 years 10 months
- Car Make: VW & VW
- Car Model: MK7R & MK6 GTI
- Membership No: 1845
- Location: JHB
Re: 1.8 20v turbo motors
your opinion about dropping this in a citi? Why is it people tell me i have to have a cable shift box? I currently have a FFZ boxpanic-mechanic wrote:The motor as it comes out of the Passat /audi (APU) code has a number of issues to fit.
1) the exhaust manifold will place the turbo right on the rear engine mounting. (so you have to dumpt hte turbo and manifold and get the mk4 golf bits)
2) The intake manifold is different and unless you do some serious contortions with your plumbing it is an issue for space.
3) you cannot use the aircon/ps/belt setup as it comes on that engine and then you have to fit the mk3 bits back. Thta becomes a whole mission of it's own with trying to make drive belts work becuase the main pulley is mis aligned.
4) the oil extension housing is wrong and it tilts the filter towards the rear of the engine - on the mk3 that ends up smack on top of the front engine mounting. The oil extention housing from the mk3 fits but then you have to get a fitting to reconnect the oil supply line to the turbo as the stuff off that motor does not work.
So in my opinion - the motor out of the golf4 will be better - the only thing I don't know is if it still has the same rear engine mounting pick-up holes in the block because they are not used in the mk4 anymore.
I can't help you with your gearbox questions. I don't go to the trouble of changing rodshift boxes out to hydraulic/cable boxes and the ensuing amount of work it entails. (fitting hydraulic cylinders, manufacturing mountings swopping gear mechanisms etc.etc.) In my opinion if I want a car with cable shift and hydraulic clutch I'll buy it.
PS - engines like that go for around R12k usually minus turbo.
LB MK7R 359WHP 511NM
MK6 GTI DSG UNITRONIC Stage2
EX:
AUDI RS3
BMW E92 M3 350WHP @ Rally Cross Motors
UNITRONIC SEAT Ibiza Cupra 1.8 20vT Stage3 434WHP 509NM @ KAR
VW Citi Chico 1.4
MK6 GTI DSG UNITRONIC Stage2
EX:
AUDI RS3
BMW E92 M3 350WHP @ Rally Cross Motors
UNITRONIC SEAT Ibiza Cupra 1.8 20vT Stage3 434WHP 509NM @ KAR
VW Citi Chico 1.4
- panic-mechanic
- Panic's Place
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- Location: Benoni, putfontein.
Re: 1.8 20v turbo motors
In a citi the APU engine is easier because it doesn't have the in-block waterpump and still has the nounting point for the right side engine mount. It's easier from that point of view because you don't have to manufacture a mounting that comes around the motor - you just bolt the normal citi engine munting to the block. Yes you lose the cover but it's not a problem - you could probably hack it to pieces and re-use it. I think I had to drop the idler tensioner pulley and the hydrualic tensioner and use a normal 16v Tensioner and belt on the caddy becuase they interfered with the mounting. It's not a problem though.
Then you could probably use the manifold and turbo as it is in the passat if it comes with it. I used golf 4 manifold and turbo
You will most definately have to change the intake manifold to the golf type as it will foul on the radiator on the mk1.
There is no MUST use the cable gearbox. I ran 250kw on the wheels on my mk2 using a normal 020 gearbox and I only ever stripped 5th gear once - also due to stupidity playing with a guy on the highway going out of boost and then putting foot and back into boost at 220km/h - repeat 5 times and it took the teeth off the gear. You can make up clutches to hold huge HP and if you have bolts in the diff the box will stay together if you don't drive like a ****. Don't drop the clutch on every opportunity and feed the throttle instead of slamming your foot flat, choose the right gears when you drive so the engine can rev instead of dragging it into boost from nowhere so it spikes and the box will be fine. If you make less than 180 kw on the wheels you can even use a stock clutch.
I had one of these in my caddy for a couple of years in basically stock form - it used to make 153 hp and 235 nm on KAR's dyno. I towed my race car on a double axle trailer everywhere and I used a stock CTI clutch . It never gave me one day's worth of trouble and I never broke the box. That was probably one of the most pleasant little run arounds I have owned and if it wasn't that I'm very uncomfortable in a caddy I might have kept it. It could also haul ass a bit if you wanted to....
Gave me 12 km a litre in everyday driving form and 10 km/l when towing the race car around.
Then you could probably use the manifold and turbo as it is in the passat if it comes with it. I used golf 4 manifold and turbo
You will most definately have to change the intake manifold to the golf type as it will foul on the radiator on the mk1.
There is no MUST use the cable gearbox. I ran 250kw on the wheels on my mk2 using a normal 020 gearbox and I only ever stripped 5th gear once - also due to stupidity playing with a guy on the highway going out of boost and then putting foot and back into boost at 220km/h - repeat 5 times and it took the teeth off the gear. You can make up clutches to hold huge HP and if you have bolts in the diff the box will stay together if you don't drive like a ****. Don't drop the clutch on every opportunity and feed the throttle instead of slamming your foot flat, choose the right gears when you drive so the engine can rev instead of dragging it into boost from nowhere so it spikes and the box will be fine. If you make less than 180 kw on the wheels you can even use a stock clutch.
I had one of these in my caddy for a couple of years in basically stock form - it used to make 153 hp and 235 nm on KAR's dyno. I towed my race car on a double axle trailer everywhere and I used a stock CTI clutch . It never gave me one day's worth of trouble and I never broke the box. That was probably one of the most pleasant little run arounds I have owned and if it wasn't that I'm very uncomfortable in a caddy I might have kept it. It could also haul ass a bit if you wanted to....
Gave me 12 km a litre in everyday driving form and 10 km/l when towing the race car around.
Stephan van Tonder - Jhb - Putfontein Benoni
'05 Audi A6 3.0L TDI Avant
'09 Touareg 3l TDI
'13 VW CC 2l tdi (repair project)
'05 Touareg v10
Perfect Power dealer. I do dyno tuning.
'05 Audi A6 3.0L TDI Avant
'09 Touareg 3l TDI
'13 VW CC 2l tdi (repair project)
'05 Touareg v10
Perfect Power dealer. I do dyno tuning.