1.8T 20v swap
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1.8T 20v swap
Hi Guys, a few questions:
We have a Polo Classic 1999, 1.6. Thinking of swapping in a 1.8T motor and a 6 speed box. Money is not a serious issue.
Which 1.8T is best?
Which box is best?
Will it be worth it?
Thanks
We have a Polo Classic 1999, 1.6. Thinking of swapping in a 1.8T motor and a 6 speed box. Money is not a serious issue.
Which 1.8T is best?
Which box is best?
Will it be worth it?
Thanks
Mr Honda
Civic 150i turbo
Civic B20 turbo
Accord 2.4 Exec
Airwave 1.5vtec
Civic 150i turbo
Civic B20 turbo
Accord 2.4 Exec
Airwave 1.5vtec
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Re: 1.8T 20v swap
hondatrix wrote:Hi Guys, a few questions:
We have a Polo Classic 1999, 1.6. Thinking of swapping in a 1.8T motor and a 6 speed box. Money is not a serious issue.
Which 1.8T is best?
Which box is best?
Will it be worth it?
Thanks
Get the Agu, thats the best one, and I hear the G5 gti gearbox is nice if you want 6 speed.
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Re: 1.8T 20v swap
Thanks Rudi.
Mr Honda
Civic 150i turbo
Civic B20 turbo
Accord 2.4 Exec
Airwave 1.5vtec
Civic 150i turbo
Civic B20 turbo
Accord 2.4 Exec
Airwave 1.5vtec
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Re: 1.8T 20v swap
What are your plans for the motor? Are you gona keep the stock turbo on there?
If you can find an older 1.8t with the external water pump then this will simplify fitment a whole lot.
Honestly a long ratio 5speed will be just fine. G5 box does not have a hole for speedo sensor on it so its not gona be the best bet.
But if you really want 6speed then the 02m box will be fine.
If you can find an older 1.8t with the external water pump then this will simplify fitment a whole lot.
Honestly a long ratio 5speed will be just fine. G5 box does not have a hole for speedo sensor on it so its not gona be the best bet.
But if you really want 6speed then the 02m box will be fine.
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Re: 1.8T 20v swap
or you can buy my project with all goodies for R45Kneg
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Re: 1.8T 20v swap
If money is no problem, then the BAM motor from a MKI TT I think it is, or the 8L S3 1.8T 20v...
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Previous Garage:
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Project Betty: 2005 Polo 1.9 TDI (PD130) Sportline
Weekend Warrior: 1993 Volkswagen Caddy 2.0 16v ABF on ITB's
Daily Drive: 2014 VW Touareg 3.0 V6 TDi R-Line
Project Fes: 1982 VW Golf GLS 1.5
Project FeO: 1966 VW Type 2 Transporter Kombi Split Window
Previous Garage:
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Vagon: 2005 Audi B6 A4 1.8T (140kw) Avant
Project XXXX: 1967 VW Type 3 Variant (Squareback)
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Re: 1.8T 20v swap
Hi
So I just finished this type of conversion in my mk2 GTi.
Few things I have learnt and can share:
Engine wise -
If you use APU/AEB (external water pump), you will need to change oil filter housing as its as a slant and hits front mount. The old one from your existing motor will work. The turbo will also sit smack on the rear engine mount so you would need and AGU type manifold - but this is the cheapest motor out there (R10k at some places). The rest is fine, 3 pin coils etc will work with most management systems
If you use AGU (which is a 110kw motor with k03 turbo), easiest to fit and get working, coils are 3 pin and like above will work with most systems (Priced atleast R12.5k).
if you use the 132kw motors like AUQ (which I did), there are a few things. The coils are 4 pin and have internal ignitors and are fired positive, so you need a management that fire's positive (dicktator fires negative, perfect power fires positive but you may need a booster circuit of sorts) - option is to change to AGU coils which are 3 pin and then fire it with an external coil amplifier like tp100 or blue fire. Bare in mind that AGU coils are easily R2000 and can offset the budget massively. The other option which i went for was to use the mk4 2.0 coil and 16v leads, works fine but still added cost. Another issue is the throttle body which is drive by wire, so you need to source an mp9 or any throttle that can be cable driven that bolts to the intake - added work comes when you need to make a bracket to hold the cable. The benefit you get if you plan to leave it stock is the slightly bigger K03s turbo, bigger injectors and marginally lower compression. (Priced at R15k, but you get variants like the AUM/ARY which are cheaper around R13k).
If you decide on the s3/tt BAM/AMK engine (165kw/154kw) then the same applies like the 132kw motors...
The mk5 gti 6 speed box does not just fix as well, the ones that fit properly using the mk2 16v mount bracket is from the Touran, next question is why do you want the 6 speed box?
Hope that helps
So I just finished this type of conversion in my mk2 GTi.
Few things I have learnt and can share:
Engine wise -
If you use APU/AEB (external water pump), you will need to change oil filter housing as its as a slant and hits front mount. The old one from your existing motor will work. The turbo will also sit smack on the rear engine mount so you would need and AGU type manifold - but this is the cheapest motor out there (R10k at some places). The rest is fine, 3 pin coils etc will work with most management systems
If you use AGU (which is a 110kw motor with k03 turbo), easiest to fit and get working, coils are 3 pin and like above will work with most systems (Priced atleast R12.5k).
if you use the 132kw motors like AUQ (which I did), there are a few things. The coils are 4 pin and have internal ignitors and are fired positive, so you need a management that fire's positive (dicktator fires negative, perfect power fires positive but you may need a booster circuit of sorts) - option is to change to AGU coils which are 3 pin and then fire it with an external coil amplifier like tp100 or blue fire. Bare in mind that AGU coils are easily R2000 and can offset the budget massively. The other option which i went for was to use the mk4 2.0 coil and 16v leads, works fine but still added cost. Another issue is the throttle body which is drive by wire, so you need to source an mp9 or any throttle that can be cable driven that bolts to the intake - added work comes when you need to make a bracket to hold the cable. The benefit you get if you plan to leave it stock is the slightly bigger K03s turbo, bigger injectors and marginally lower compression. (Priced at R15k, but you get variants like the AUM/ARY which are cheaper around R13k).
If you decide on the s3/tt BAM/AMK engine (165kw/154kw) then the same applies like the 132kw motors...
The mk5 gti 6 speed box does not just fix as well, the ones that fit properly using the mk2 16v mount bracket is from the Touran, next question is why do you want the 6 speed box?
Hope that helps
Have you had your bottle of Hatorade today?
1992 Golf Mk2 GTi VR6
1994 Caddy 1800 Sport
1992 Golf Mk2 GTi VR6
1994 Caddy 1800 Sport
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Re: 1.8T 20v swap
Killerwatt wrote:What are your plans for the motor? Are you gona keep the stock turbo on there?
If you can find an older 1.8t with the external water pump then this will simplify fitment a whole lot.
Honestly a long ratio 5speed will be just fine. G5 box does not have a hole for speedo sensor on it so its not gona be the best bet.
But if you really want 6speed then the 02m box will be fine.
I might swap the turbo out, but leave most stock, under 1bar boost. Can get AGU very cheap, so this will be the way we will go I think. I can always play with heads and cams etc..Don't want a race car, just need something that will GO when I want it to go.
Thanks for the info.
Mr Honda
Civic 150i turbo
Civic B20 turbo
Accord 2.4 Exec
Airwave 1.5vtec
Civic 150i turbo
Civic B20 turbo
Accord 2.4 Exec
Airwave 1.5vtec
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Re: 1.8T 20v swap
Stu wrote:or you can buy my project with all goodies for R45Kneg
Tell and show me more....
Mr Honda
Civic 150i turbo
Civic B20 turbo
Accord 2.4 Exec
Airwave 1.5vtec
Civic 150i turbo
Civic B20 turbo
Accord 2.4 Exec
Airwave 1.5vtec
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Re: 1.8T 20v swap
VWicked wrote:Hi
So I just finished this type of conversion in my mk2 GTi.
Few things I have learnt and can share:
Engine wise -
If you use APU/AEB (external water pump), you will need to change oil filter housing as its as a slant and hits front mount. The old one from your existing motor will work. The turbo will also sit smack on the rear engine mount so you would need and AGU type manifold - but this is the cheapest motor out there (R10k at some places). The rest is fine, 3 pin coils etc will work with most management systems
If you use AGU (which is a 110kw motor with k03 turbo), easiest to fit and get working, coils are 3 pin and like above will work with most systems (Priced atleast R12.5k).
if you use the 132kw motors like AUQ (which I did), there are a few things. The coils are 4 pin and have internal ignitors and are fired positive, so you need a management that fire's positive (dicktator fires negative, perfect power fires positive but you may need a booster circuit of sorts) - option is to change to AGU coils which are 3 pin and then fire it with an external coil amplifier like tp100 or blue fire. Bare in mind that AGU coils are easily R2000 and can offset the budget massively. The other option which i went for was to use the mk4 2.0 coil and 16v leads, works fine but still added cost. Another issue is the throttle body which is drive by wire, so you need to source an mp9 or any throttle that can be cable driven that bolts to the intake - added work comes when you need to make a bracket to hold the cable. The benefit you get if you plan to leave it stock is the slightly bigger K03s turbo, bigger injectors and marginally lower compression. (Priced at R15k, but you get variants like the AUM/ARY which are cheaper around R13k).
If you decide on the s3/tt BAM/AMK engine (165kw/154kw) then the same applies like the 132kw motors...
The mk5 gti 6 speed box does not just fix as well, the ones that fit properly using the mk2 16v mount bracket is from the Touran, next question is why do you want the 6 speed box?
Hope that helps
YES it helps a lot..Thanks Jashan.
Mr Honda
Civic 150i turbo
Civic B20 turbo
Accord 2.4 Exec
Airwave 1.5vtec
Civic 150i turbo
Civic B20 turbo
Accord 2.4 Exec
Airwave 1.5vtec
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Re: 1.8T 20v swap
Go for the BAM motor since money isn't an issue.hondatrix wrote:Killerwatt wrote:What are your plans for the motor? Are you gona keep the stock turbo on there?
If you can find an older 1.8t with the external water pump then this will simplify fitment a whole lot.
Honestly a long ratio 5speed will be just fine. G5 box does not have a hole for speedo sensor on it so its not gona be the best bet.
But if you really want 6speed then the 02m box will be fine.
I might swap the turbo out, but leave most stock, under 1bar boost. Can get AGU very cheap, so this will be the way we will go I think. I can always play with heads and cams etc..Don't want a race car, just need something that will GO when I want it to go.
Thanks for the info.
Current
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'11 Ford Bantam
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'06 Polo 1.9tdi 96kw
'07 Audi A3 2.0FSI
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'71 Leyland Mini 1000 Stationwagen
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'85 BMW 518i
'09 VW Citi GTS
'86 VW Citi Sport 1800
'85 BMW 318ı e30
'89 Toyota Corolla 1.6 GL 16V
'82 Alfa Romeo Alfetta 2000l
'85 Alfa Romeo 159i GoldLeaf
'84 VW MK1 GT
'07 Ford Bantam
'11 Ford Bantam
WESBANK Modıfıed mk1 replıca
SOLD
'07 Audi A4 B7 1.8T
'06 Polo 1.9tdi 96kw
'07 Audi A3 2.0FSI
'97 VW Citi Chico 2.0i
'71 Leyland Mini 1000 Stationwagen
'84 Ford Sierra XR6
'96 VW Citi Chico 2.0
'85 BMW 518i
'09 VW Citi GTS
'86 VW Citi Sport 1800
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Re: 1.8T 20v swap
VWicked wrote:Hi
So I just finished this type of conversion in my mk2 GTi.
Few things I have learnt and can share:
Engine wise -
If you use APU/AEB (external water pump), you will need to change oil filter housing as its as a slant and hits front mount. The old one from your existing motor will work. The turbo will also sit smack on the rear engine mount so you would need and AGU type manifold - but this is the cheapest motor out there (R10k at some places). The rest is fine, 3 pin coils etc will work with most management systems
If you use AGU (which is a 110kw motor with k03 turbo), easiest to fit and get working, coils are 3 pin and like above will work with most systems (Priced atleast R12.5k).
if you use the 132kw motors like AUQ (which I did), there are a few things. The coils are 4 pin and have internal ignitors and are fired positive, so you need a management that fire's positive (dicktator fires negative, perfect power fires positive but you may need a booster circuit of sorts) - option is to change to AGU coils which are 3 pin and then fire it with an external coil amplifier like tp100 or blue fire. Bare in mind that AGU coils are easily R2000 and can offset the budget massively. The other option which i went for was to use the mk4 2.0 coil and 16v leads, works fine but still added cost. Another issue is the throttle body which is drive by wire, so you need to source an mp9 or any throttle that can be cable driven that bolts to the intake - added work comes when you need to make a bracket to hold the cable. The benefit you get if you plan to leave it stock is the slightly bigger K03s turbo, bigger injectors and marginally lower compression. (Priced at R15k, but you get variants like the AUM/ARY which are cheaper around R13k).
If you decide on the s3/tt BAM/AMK engine (165kw/154kw) then the same applies like the 132kw motors...
The mk5 gti 6 speed box does not just fix as well, the ones that fit properly using the mk2 16v mount bracket is from the Touran, next question is why do you want the 6 speed box?
Hope that helps
What gearbox did you use?
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Re: 1.8T 20v swap
Hey bud, my car is an original 2.0 16v so I already have all cable shift in there so it all worked out great. However on my other car I plan to stay rod shift on turbo just going to rebuild the box, rod shift boxes are great and you don't need the cable shift really.
Have you had your bottle of Hatorade today?
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1994 Caddy 1800 Sport
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1994 Caddy 1800 Sport
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Re: 1.8T 20v swap
I like this post jash
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Re: 1.8T 20v swap
So all in all how much will 1 of these conversions cost.
I know some guys in jhb a few years back when the 2l8v motor was 3500 they said the conversion cost like 10k this is if you already have a dgg or ffz gearbox. Polo's with injection systems already on the car and this includes a remap of the ecu.
Cheers
This is interesting.
Also when doing a 20v conversion is the normal gearbox's like dgg or ffz compatable with the motor?
I know some guys in jhb a few years back when the 2l8v motor was 3500 they said the conversion cost like 10k this is if you already have a dgg or ffz gearbox. Polo's with injection systems already on the car and this includes a remap of the ecu.
Cheers
This is interesting.
Also when doing a 20v conversion is the normal gearbox's like dgg or ffz compatable with the motor?
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Re: 1.8T 20v swap
would budget around R25-30k depending on what the car has already and how much you can do yourself. No two ways about it, mp9 is not going to work so that also hurts budget. In essence its like this:
Motor - R12-15k
Service (depending what you do but atleast do cambelt and waterpump) - R2k
New clutch (ffz box etc will work and you going to remove box so don't be cheap and skimp here) - R2k do fly bolts etc as well.
management system and incl tuning (depends what you want but you need 60-2 type system) - R3-5k
cooler and boost pipes and intake (depends what you have lying around and what you build it out of and who builds it) - R1k - R4k
downpipe and perhaps exhaust - R2-3k
adhoc (for **** you have over looked above or just general **** that you didn't do above, like in my case coils didn't work. also things like water pipes to work, aftermarket diverter valve, lambda, boost gauge..) R3-5k
Mine will come in just under R20k but it was due to my hoarding over the years that helped me out. The engine I got had the std mk4 cooler and I built my own boost pipes using the standard stuff and modding it and adding some exhaust pipe and silicone bends. My car was already on aftermarket management and I had a variety of stuff like old water pipes from previous cars which I played around with to work. The clutch on my car was replaced 3000 km before as well and I had random pieces of straight pipe which I built an exhaust from which saved cash. I still want to fit an aftermarket dv but at R700 plus for now the std one will do and sounds decent when not plumbed into the intake.
Hope that story helps, but pm me if you want to meet and see the car to discuss further
Motor - R12-15k
Service (depending what you do but atleast do cambelt and waterpump) - R2k
New clutch (ffz box etc will work and you going to remove box so don't be cheap and skimp here) - R2k do fly bolts etc as well.
management system and incl tuning (depends what you want but you need 60-2 type system) - R3-5k
cooler and boost pipes and intake (depends what you have lying around and what you build it out of and who builds it) - R1k - R4k
downpipe and perhaps exhaust - R2-3k
adhoc (for **** you have over looked above or just general **** that you didn't do above, like in my case coils didn't work. also things like water pipes to work, aftermarket diverter valve, lambda, boost gauge..) R3-5k
Mine will come in just under R20k but it was due to my hoarding over the years that helped me out. The engine I got had the std mk4 cooler and I built my own boost pipes using the standard stuff and modding it and adding some exhaust pipe and silicone bends. My car was already on aftermarket management and I had a variety of stuff like old water pipes from previous cars which I played around with to work. The clutch on my car was replaced 3000 km before as well and I had random pieces of straight pipe which I built an exhaust from which saved cash. I still want to fit an aftermarket dv but at R700 plus for now the std one will do and sounds decent when not plumbed into the intake.
Hope that story helps, but pm me if you want to meet and see the car to discuss further
Have you had your bottle of Hatorade today?
1992 Golf Mk2 GTi VR6
1994 Caddy 1800 Sport
1992 Golf Mk2 GTi VR6
1994 Caddy 1800 Sport
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Re: 1.8T 20v swap
VWicked
Posted: Fri Sep 13, 2013 2:25 pm
Re: 1.8T 20v swap
would budget around R25-30k depending on what the car has already and how much you can do yourself. No two ways about it, mp9 is not going to work so that also hurts budget. In essence its like this:
Motor - R12-15k
Service (depending what you do but atleast do cambelt and waterpump) - R2k
New clutch (ffz box etc will work and you going to remove box so don't be cheap and skimp here) - R2k do fly bolts etc as well.
management system and incl tuning (depends what you want but you need 60-2 type system) - R3-5k
cooler and boost pipes and intake (depends what you have lying around and what you build it out of and who builds it) - R1k - R4k
downpipe and perhaps exhaust - R2-3k
adhoc (for s**t you have over looked above or just general s**t that you didn't do above, like in my case coils didn't work. also things like water pipes to work, aftermarket diverter valve, lambda, boost gauge..) R3-5k
Mine will come in just under R20k but it was due to my hoarding over the years that helped me out. The engine I got had the std mk4 cooler and I built my own boost pipes using the standard stuff and modding it and adding some exhaust pipe and silicone bends. My car was already on aftermarket management and I had a variety of stuff like old water pipes from previous cars which I played around with to work. The clutch on my car was replaced 3000 km before as well and I had random pieces of straight pipe which I built an exhaust from which saved cash. I still want to fit an aftermarket dv but at R700 plus for now the std one will do and sounds decent when not plumbed into the intake.
Hope that story helps, but pm me if you want to meet and see the car to discuss further
do you have pics of the work done or a rides thread of the car?
Would be cool to see
- VWicked
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Re: 1.8T 20v swap
I need to take not really a pic guy once hands are dirty. Car has been running a month now and 2500 km's
Have you had your bottle of Hatorade today?
1992 Golf Mk2 GTi VR6
1994 Caddy 1800 Sport
1992 Golf Mk2 GTi VR6
1994 Caddy 1800 Sport
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Re: 1.8T 20v swap
Put up a few pics of both your cars when you get the chance.
Pics of Mk 2 GTi's never go amiss
Pics of Mk 2 GTi's never go amiss
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Re: 1.8T 20v swap
2006 E92 335i * Monica
2001 Audi S3 Quattro * Suzie-Q
1999 Jetta 3 20vt 181kw 390nm * Jet-Li
2006 Caddy 1.6 low and slow * Tossa-Caddy
2001 Polo classic 16v ABF Featured * BLUEmotion
1988 Bmw E30 2.9L - Written off
1991 MKII GTI - Sold
1989 MKII CSL - Sold
2001 Audi S3 Quattro * Suzie-Q
1999 Jetta 3 20vt 181kw 390nm * Jet-Li
2006 Caddy 1.6 low and slow * Tossa-Caddy
2001 Polo classic 16v ABF Featured * BLUEmotion
1988 Bmw E30 2.9L - Written off
1991 MKII GTI - Sold
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You clearly have more balls than me.
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Re: 1.8T 20v swap
Hmmm that would be epic
Have you had your bottle of Hatorade today?
1992 Golf Mk2 GTi VR6
1994 Caddy 1800 Sport
1992 Golf Mk2 GTi VR6
1994 Caddy 1800 Sport
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Re: 1.8T 20v swap
Motor that was in my 2 Door.
Stock Standard '89 Golf Mk2 VR6 (Sold)
Project "Merge" Mk2VR6 - The Build
'86 Golf Mk2 AGU 2 Door (Sold)
Project "Tudor" Mk2AGU -The Build
Project "Merge" Mk2VR6 - The Build
'86 Golf Mk2 AGU 2 Door (Sold)
Project "Tudor" Mk2AGU -The Build
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Re: 1.8T 20v swap
Just my 2c... The g5 gti 6speed box would also need drive shafts to be mAde up and if you plan on making some decent power the dual mass flywheel doesn't deal with it too well...
Last edited by Taz0 on Mon Sep 16, 2013 7:39 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: 1.8T 20v swap
Once going and set up right its a great daily drive.
I have the BAM engine with factory S3 harness , ecu , drive by wire and almost all else S3 engine and electronics wise in my mk1 .
Depends on what your budget is.
I say whichever 20Vt you get , drop the sump and pop off the valve cover. Give it a good inspection - and signs of age or rework means that the head should come off to be safe. While you are these give it a bit of a refesher and then you are good to go.
Way too many 20v engines floating around in less than sub standard condition - if it breaks , it breaks proper due to it being an interference engine.
Dont embark on the project and skimp , spend the cash where it should be spent and it will work really well.
Killerwat is correct , long ration mk4 GTI box is good enough and less complicated than the 6 speed 02m . 02J is plenty strong and can still be had for a decent price.
You can look for a Polo Gti (BJX) engine , it along with the Seat Ibiza Cupra were amongst the last to be built . You can run a AGU cable throttle on this as well as the AGU mechanical cam chain tensioner. The injectors are also easier to get hold of and of a newer technology when compared to the AGU
I have the BAM engine with factory S3 harness , ecu , drive by wire and almost all else S3 engine and electronics wise in my mk1 .
Depends on what your budget is.
I say whichever 20Vt you get , drop the sump and pop off the valve cover. Give it a good inspection - and signs of age or rework means that the head should come off to be safe. While you are these give it a bit of a refesher and then you are good to go.
Way too many 20v engines floating around in less than sub standard condition - if it breaks , it breaks proper due to it being an interference engine.
Dont embark on the project and skimp , spend the cash where it should be spent and it will work really well.
Killerwat is correct , long ration mk4 GTI box is good enough and less complicated than the 6 speed 02m . 02J is plenty strong and can still be had for a decent price.
You can look for a Polo Gti (BJX) engine , it along with the Seat Ibiza Cupra were amongst the last to be built . You can run a AGU cable throttle on this as well as the AGU mechanical cam chain tensioner. The injectors are also easier to get hold of and of a newer technology when compared to the AGU
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Frieling Racing Chip tuning
Yashin@frc.co.za
082 805 9060
2013 TT-RS S Tronic
MK1 20VT BAM (Motronic ME 7.5 DBW)
Frieling Racing Chip tuning
Yashin@frc.co.za
082 805 9060
2013 TT-RS S Tronic
MK1 20VT BAM (Motronic ME 7.5 DBW)