Brake pressure issues

[Kyle28rsa]

So today i tried bleeding the brake system starting from furthest point to closest, as the brake peddle goes right to the floor even when the car is off

When bleeding the breaks i noticed that a weak stream comes out of the nipples on the rear drivers and front passengers side.

I dont see any leaking of fluid anywhere so i can only think of one thing, to change the master cylinder.

Just want to know if there is anything else i can look at before going that option

Car is a golf 1

[PapaJo]

Check the brake lines for any nicks or dents that prevents full bore flow through brake pipes.

You will also need to troubleshoot by removing pipes from connections at end points to check corrosion inside those pipe closing the pipe bore, especially if this car is an old model where the brake fluid might not have been flushed at regular intervals and forms rust inside these pipes.

[Kyle28rsa]

Check the brake lines for any nicks or dents that prevents full bore flow through brake pipes.

You will also need to troubleshoot by removing pipes from connections at end points to check corrosion inside those pipe closing the pipe bore, especially if this car is an old model where the brake fluid might not have been flushed at regular intervals and forms rust inside these pipes.

I might have seen one of the steel pipes coming from master cylinder bent slightly. If this is the case then that could be the reason for the loss of pressure at the two wheels.

But if the pipes are bent. Would that still cause loss of pressure at the break peddle?

[PapaJo]

Check the brake lines for any nicks or dents that prevents full bore flow through brake pipes.

You will also need to troubleshoot by removing pipes from connections at end points to check corrosion inside those pipe closing the pipe bore, especially if this car is an old model where the brake fluid might not have been flushed at regular intervals and forms rust inside these pipes.

I might have seen one of the steel pipes coming from master cylinder bent slightly. If this is the case then that could be the reason for the loss of pressure at the two wheels.

But if the pipes are bent. Would that still cause loss of pressure at the break peddle?

Loss of pressure on pedal side is likely caused by a leaking or bad master cylinder.

[Kyle28rsa]

Check the brake lines for any nicks or dents that prevents full bore flow through brake pipes.

You will also need to troubleshoot by removing pipes from connections at end points to check corrosion inside those pipe closing the pipe bore, especially if this car is an old model where the brake fluid might not have been flushed at regular intervals and forms rust inside these pipes.

I might have seen one of the steel pipes coming from master cylinder bent slightly. If this is the case then that could be the reason for the loss of pressure at the two wheels.

But if the pipes are bent. Would that still cause loss of pressure at the break peddle?

Loss of pressure on pedal side is likely caused by a leaking or bad master cylinder.

Thanks PapaJo. Ok so that can be the only cause of less of pressure at the peddle. Bent or blocked lines wont affect the peddles pressure

[missioner]

I would go with a new master cylinder.

For gits and shiggles replace the rear wheel cylinders while you are at it.

Use a good quality DOT4 brake fluid. It has a better service life compared to DOT3. If nothing else is available DOT3 will work fine.

Once all is said and done make a point of replacing the brake fluid every 2 to 3 years. Brake fluid is hygroscopic and over time stops protecting the internals of the brake system from corrosion. Eventually the rust eats the cylinders and the seals allowing the fluid to bypass back to the reservoir. Spongy pedal and ineffective brakes.

Be pedantic about cleanliness when you do the job, It's safety critical that it's done correctly.

[Kyle28rsa]

I would go with a new master cylinder.

For gits and shiggles replace the rear wheel cylinders while you are at it.

Use a good quality DOT4 brake fluid. It has a better service life compared to DOT3. If nothing else is available DOT3 will work fine.

Once all is said and done make a point of replacing the brake fluid every 2 to 3 years. Brake fluid is hygroscopic and over time stops protecting the internals of the brake system from corrosion. Eventually the rust eats the cylinders and the seals allowing the fluid to bypass back to the reservoir. Spongy pedal and ineffective brakes.

Be pedantic about cleanliness when you do the job, It's safety critical that it's done correctly.

Thanks for the input missioner. Did i complete flush of the break fluid already. Used original toyota dot4 fluid. I checked the rear cylinders while checking for faults. Was no leaks by the boots and pressure was nice and strong when i put pressure on it.

Ill change the MC and will give an update on the results