VW Microbus 2.6i

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PeterJ
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VW Microbus 2.6i

Post by PeterJ »

Howzit Guys, I am going to change the cam belt on my Microbus 2.6i engine. I have searched the internet for information on this engine, no luck. Any help with this will be greatly appreciated. I would like to know where to find the timing marks and any tips, do's and don'ts that will help me in doing this job without any major problems.
Thanks and Regards,
Peter.
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Re: VW Microbus 2.6i

Post by panic-mechanic »

timing marks are on the crank and the cam. Turn it till it lines up on TDC - check the others that they make sense or even make your own with a paint marker. put it back exactly the same way and you should be fine.
Stephan van Tonder - Jhb - Putfontein Benoni
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Re: VW Microbus 2.6i

Post by missioner »

Did my Audi 5 cyl cambelt today. Too easy.

Cam sprocket mark is behind the sprocket, same as a Citi golf, lines up with the edge of the valve cover.
Vibration damper and lower timing cover are also marked, you should be able to see them through the flap the number plate is mounted to. There is also a zero on the flywheel that should be visible though a thumb sized hole in the bell housing below the distributor.

The proper beesh is to open the crank bolt, its tight, really tight and has threadlock on it. Pneumatics do nothing. You will need a properly long breaker bar and a reliable way to lock the motor. The Audi has a hole that exposes the ring gear that I could wedge with a chisel to loosen the crank bolt, i cant remember if the T3 has the same amenities available. VW made a tool that holds the vibration damper for this purpose.

Belt was R180, idler roller R320 and water pump was R550. Barring mishap it should take around 3 hours.

Get the expansion bottle higher than the radiator to bleed the cooling system. There is a nipple on the radiator that must be opened for this behind the grille. Hose pipe running into the bottle helps make it easier.

I last did a Transporter 3 cambelt about 18 years ago so my memory may be fuzzy on some details, remember that the belt is tensioned by the waterpump, so it's best to replace it with a new part. If you reuse it, at least replace the O-ring to avoid coolant leaks. Use grease not silicone sealer on the O-ring.

Torque the crank bolt to 150Nm and use fresh threadlock. Camshaft sprocket is 45-55Nm, again threadlock.

Check tension of the belt by turning the longest span with your thumb and forefinger. It must rotate 90°, not more and not much less.

Hope that covers it.

'87 Golf 1 Olde Skewl OEM+
PeterJ
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Re: VW Microbus 2.6i

Post by PeterJ »

Thankyou very much Stephan, this has helped me a lot.
Cheers,
Peter.
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Re: VW Microbus 2.6i

Post by missioner »


PeterJ wrote:Thankyou very much Missioner, this has helped me a lot.
Cheers,
Peter.
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Re: VW Microbus 2.6i

Post by VAG Fan »

One thing to add to Missioner's post. Perhaps just double-check on the torque specs of the crank bolt for that specific engine, and then make sure what class of bolt you need for that torque.

My Audi (AAR, 2309 cc) is specced not at 150 Nm, but much higher, at 450 Nm. (Yes, you read correctly, four hundred and fifty Newton metres.) At M18, this requires a class 12.9.
I think it all depends on the type and size of vibration damper installed.
Mark R.
- - - - - - - - - -
2004 VW Golf TDI, type 1J, AHF, 317k (2016-current) --- daily
1990 VW Fox, type 16, HM, 304k (2005-current) --- spare runaround
Previous:
1992 Audi 500 SE, type C4, AAR (2001-2020) --- nice while it lasted
1983 VW Golf GTS, type 17, FR (1992-2005) --- most fun car I've ever had
1978 Audi 100 GLS 5E, type 43, WC (1991-92) --- died in the side of a Rekord who cut me off
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Re: VW Microbus 2.6i

Post by RikusFouche »

Hi, I want to know if it is possible to chip the 2.6i engine? If so, which one?
willem maas
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Re: VW Microbus 2.6i

Post by willem maas »

timing
Last edited by willem maas on Fri Jun 18, 2021 8:02 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: VW Microbus 2.6i

Post by willem maas »

VW Microbus 2.3i, 2.5i & 2.6i: Setting the timing:
1. Spark plug wires:
Trace piston #1 spark plug wire to the distributor cap.

Remove piston #1 spark plug, and rotate the crank by hand to position #1 piston to TDC with the rotor pointing roughly to where #1 cylinder is on the distributor cap. With piston #1 at TDC there should be a mark on the back of the camshaft pulley lining up with the top of the camshaft cover (where the back of the pulley is towards the front of the vehicle). If the line is not matching piston #1 at TDC, the timing belt might be on wrong.
The rotor should point to a mark on the distributor housing when piston #1 is at TDC.

2. Camshaft pulley:
There is a mark on the back of the camshaft pulley that must align with the top of the cylinder head / camshaft cover when piston #1 is at TDC.

3. Flywheel:
There is a 0 mark on the flywheel that aligns with the bell housing when piston #1 is at TDC.

4. Crankshaft pulley:
When piston #1 is at TDC and the mark on the camshaft pulley aligns with the top of the camshaft cover, a mark on the crankshaft pulley should align with a mark on the bottom cover plate of the cambelt. Look through the opening behind the number plate. (The pulley is a harmonic dampener and has an inner rubber bushing which can deteriorate over time and will cause the pulley to slip so that the TDC mark no longer indicates true TDC. If this is the case, new marks should be made on the pulley or the pulley must be repaired).
With a 135mm pulley diameter, six degrees before TDC is equal to 7mm on the circumference of the pulley, so make a second mark 7mm to the right of TDC. (As the crank rotates clockwise, the mark arrives 6˚ before the TDC mark and spark is delivered).
2.3i engine: 6˚ before TBC = 7mm on the pulley and 3.4mm on the distributor housing.
2.6i engine: 9±1˚ before TBC = 10.6mm on the pulley and 5.1mm on the distributor housing.

5. Timing:
To set the timing, remove the connector from the diagnostic plug. Bridge pins 2 and 4 on the diagnostic plug. This will avoid the timing to fluctuate.
For the 2.3i engine, set the timing at 6 degrees BTDC at 900 rpm.
For the 2.5 & 2.6i engines, set the timing at 9±1 degrees BTDC at 850 rpm.
Refit connector to diagnostic plug.

6. Bosch Distributor:
(Bosch 023 752 2015 / Bosch 034 905 205h).There is a mark on the distributor housing where the rotor should point to when piston #1 is at TDC. The mark is next to the Hall Effect Sensor on the distributor housing.
If the original Bosch distributor is replaced with a non-OEM unit make sure that the position of the rotor, Hall Effect Sensor and Interrupter Plate corresponds with piston #1 at TDC. This will determine whether the replacement unit can be installed in the same position where the Bosch unit was removed from the cylinder head. When the rotor is installed on the distributor shaft it must point to the plug wire on the distributor cap which supplies piston #1 with spark.

7. Aftermarket replacement distributor:
The position of the hall Effect Sensor might differ from that of the original Bosch unit. The position of the TDC mark on the distributor housing might also differ. When the rotor points to the TDC mark on the distributor housing with piston #1 at TDC a lug in the interrupter plate is opposite to the Hall Effect Sensor with openings both sides. As the Interrupter Plate continues to rotate clockwise, the lug will pass opposite the Hall Effect Sensor which is slightly magnetized. As the lugs passes by the sensor, the magnetic field is disturbed. Each disturbance causes the Hall Effect Sensor output to switch. This in turn causes HT to flow through the rotor to supply spark to each piston.
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Re: VW Microbus 2.6i

Post by missioner »

RikusFouche wrote:Hi, I want to know if it is possible to chip the 2.6i engine? If so, which one?
Nope.

I doubt you will find anything that can "chip" the MP9 on a 2.6i.

Very rare choice for tuning, not many tuners would have taken the time to do any development to produce a solution. A T3 is an old vehicle now, if one exists it's based on old technology and is likely to be out of production.

One possible option would be a piggy-back like Dastek, give their head office a call in Centurion and ask them. At worst it costs you a call.
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VAG Fan
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Re: VW Microbus 2.6i

Post by VAG Fan »

I can't second that suggestion in good conscience. Personally I don't trust Dastek as far as I can throw a fried ECU.

Never mind piggy-backing a system onto the existing one, they couldn't even get the KE-Jetronic on my Audi's 2.3 engine to work properly - to the contrary, they ruined both the ECU and the fuel pressure regulator.
Mark R.
- - - - - - - - - -
2004 VW Golf TDI, type 1J, AHF, 317k (2016-current) --- daily
1990 VW Fox, type 16, HM, 304k (2005-current) --- spare runaround
Previous:
1992 Audi 500 SE, type C4, AAR (2001-2020) --- nice while it lasted
1983 VW Golf GTS, type 17, FR (1992-2005) --- most fun car I've ever had
1978 Audi 100 GLS 5E, type 43, WC (1991-92) --- died in the side of a Rekord who cut me off
- - - - - - - - - -
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Re: VW Microbus 2.6i

Post by missioner »

VAG Fan wrote:I can't second that suggestion in good conscience. Personally I don't trust Dastek as far as I can throw a fried ECU.

Never mind piggy-backing a system onto the existing one, they couldn't even get the KE-Jetronic on my Audi's 2.3 engine to work properly - to the contrary, they ruined both the ECU and the fuel pressure regulator.
Well then. There you go. That idea has gone out the window.

I have not heard great things about Dastek either, only suggested it as a *possible* solution based on my knowledge of the vehicle in question.

'87 Golf 1 Olde Skewl OEM+
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