How to fix a poor hall sender connection

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Mozart101
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How to fix a poor hall sender connection

Post by Mozart101 »

Hi guys, I'm Sydney and I drive a Citi :bang:

I'm having troubles with my hall sender connection (harness with connector to tp100). The connection is not there when when the connector is plugged in and seated against the dizzy (as it should be) but it works when pulled out slightly. The problem with this is that sometimes as you are driving or when the vehicle is idling the connector can be jolted out of place and the car will die.

Can anyone assist with maybe a permanent fix or diy repair that isn't too expensive. Your help is always appreciated.
Thanks.
175SBU
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Re: How to fix a poor hall sender connection

Post by 175SBU »

Please send picture.


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Jetta2
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Re: How to fix a poor hall sender connection

Post by Jetta2 »

Cable tie.
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Mozart101
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Re: How to fix a poor hall sender connection

Post by Mozart101 »

175SBU wrote: Fri Apr 27, 2018 8:12 am Please send picture.


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@175SBU, I'm not able to attach pictures or upload, any help on doing that? Basically it seems the connector (with 3 wires from tp100) is not reaching low enough to make good contact with the 3 pins from dizyy (hall sender pins).
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Re: How to fix a poor hall sender connection

Post by Mozart101 »

Jetta2 wrote: Fri Apr 27, 2018 8:48 amCable tie.
I thought of that but that's the problem, when it's seated against/tightly against the dizzy the car won't start.
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Re: How to fix a poor hall sender connection

Post by 175SBU »

Is the clip still there?
Can you not maybe cable tie against the water pipe?

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Re: How to fix a poor hall sender connection

Post by 175SBU »

Or maybe be around the dizzy?


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Mozart101
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Re: How to fix a poor hall sender connection

Post by Mozart101 »

175SBU wrote: Fri Apr 27, 2018 11:06 am Is the clip still there?
Can you not maybe cable tie against the water pipe?

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Thanks for the pic. Yes the clip is still there. I will try to cable tie it to the water hose and let you know if I have any luck.
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Re: How to fix a poor hall sender connection

Post by 175SBU »

Awesome and good luck.


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Re: How to fix a poor hall sender connection

Post by panic-mechanic »

why not cut the plug off and get a new one that works right.
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Re: How to fix a poor hall sender connection

Post by PapaJo »

panic-mechanic wrote: Fri Apr 27, 2018 6:29 pm why not cut the plug off and get a new one that works right.
Or go to a GW near you and buy the whole harness with the TP100 and distrubutor plug, if your haness is nit in good condition. Then you remove old and replace with new one.
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Re: How to fix a poor hall sender connection

Post by 175SBU »

Was about to post and mention that i asked GW this morning and they mentioned that the harness is 250 🦌🦌


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Re: How to fix a poor hall sender connection

Post by PapaJo »

One more thing to check. The plugsitting on the distributor has a hole at the bottom where a plastic pin is locking it on the metal casing to prevent movement of the plug in casing. As the plug in casing is moving when not fixed, it can cause the trigger blade to shave the wires on the inside of the distributor. This can cause misfires or shorting out the signal pulse.
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Re: How to fix a poor hall sender connection

Post by Mozart101 »

panic-mechanic wrote: Fri Apr 27, 2018 6:29 pm why not cut the plug off and get a new one that works right.
Hi panic, thanks for the ideas guys. So this weekend I did try a new plug and I still had problems. Went over the wiring with a test light and a multimeter and everything checked out. Until I tried starting the car...no dash lights nothing...(it was the fuse next to the battery). Got the car running but I don't have the battery light on my display and dashboard illumination is dead. Fuse panel looks good, no blown fuses.

My current temporary solution regarding this plug situation is to plug it directly to the three pins coming from dizzy. seems to good for now until I find permanent solution.

P.S. any ideas on the latest emerging problem of no battery light on the dash and no dash illumination. All other electrics are working.
By the way, it's a '06 citi rhythm, new spec dash.

Thank you guys for your advice. It really helps and it is appreciated.
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Re: How to fix a poor hall sender connection

Post by PapaJo »

There should be a thin blue wire connected to the thin pin on the back of the alternator.

As for the dash lights not working, it can be a few things like the little black box, bad connection on plug at the cluster or a missing earth. Difficult to identify straight away.

Explain more on the 3 pin plug temporary solution you have done.

Was this all working before you started encountering the distributor issue?
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Re: How to fix a poor hall sender connection

Post by Mozart101 »

PapaJo wrote: Mon Apr 30, 2018 8:20 pm There should be a thin blue wire connected to the thin pin on the back of the alternator.

As for the dash lights not working, it can be a few things like the little black box, bad connection on plug at the cluster or a missing earth. Difficult to identify straight away.

Explain more on the 3 pin plug temporary solution you have done.

Was this all working before you started encountering the distributor issue?
Hey PapaJo, thanks for the tip about the blue wire on the alternator I will check that.
Yes all of this was working before and until the fuse next to the battery was knocked out of position. I have put that fuse in properly and car starts, does everything except giving me dash illumination. I can barely make out my cluster at night. With the key on I just tested to see if any fuses were blown or not making good contact and I discovered that when I was testing continuity on one of the fuses the fuel gauge would shut off and the fuel buzzer would sound. Just going to check that fuse panel and make sure there are no shorts in it.

About the 3 pin plug temporary solution. Well the whole thing is a plug (3 wires from tp100) and a socket (with three pins at dizzy). I removed the socket end of it exposing the 3 pins from dizzy and jammed the plug straight on to the 3 pins. It's holding for now but gotta get a more permanent solution.

This is so frustrating :bang: :bang:
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Re: How to fix a poor hall sender connection

Post by PapaJo »

Get that plug sorted or replaced. You don’t want to short circuit things. Do it right abd forget about tge problem.
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Re: How to fix a poor hall sender connection

Post by Mozart101 »

PapaJo wrote: Tue May 01, 2018 8:30 pm Get that plug sorted or replaced. You don’t want to short circuit things. Do it right abd forget about tge problem.
Thanks PapaJo, I think that's the best solution. I'm wondering if the socket end found on the dizzy is sold separately or it's a single unit with the dizzy.
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Re: How to fix a poor hall sender connection

Post by 175SBU »

I comes as a harness complete.


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Re: How to fix a poor hall sender connection

Post by PapaJo »

175SBU wrote: Wed May 02, 2018 8:11 am I comes as a harness complete.


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Tp100 plug and distributor plug is all on a full harness and costing around R250 at GW. You can buy the hall sender separate and then strip down your distributor and fit or spend a few Rand more and buy a new distributor. Get everything new and forget about the issue.
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