Mechanical feul pump to electric feul pump

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ChrisC20
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Mechanical feul pump to electric feul pump

Post by ChrisC20 »

Hi guys,

New to the forum. I recently bought a 1995 VW Golf MK1 1.3, and was wondering if its possible and if its a good idea to change from the standard mechanical feul pump to an electric one.
Any advice welcome.


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Jetta2
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Re: Mechanical feul pump to electric feul pump

Post by Jetta2 »

If the mechanical one is working properly, leave it alone.
Don't fix what ain't broke.
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ChrisC20
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Re: Mechanical feul pump to electric feul pump

Post by ChrisC20 »

Okay thanx.
What I do get, and will fix it soon, is in the morning I let it idle for about 2 minutes before driving to work. As soon as I go to 2nd gear and give it petrol, I have to push the pedal quit slowly otherwise it makes a “sluk” like its not getting any feul or maybe floods? It doesn’t shake, just wants to cut off the engine.
Any advice where I should start looking? Carb, feul pump?
Timing is correct thought and doesn’t do this when its at running temp.


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Re: Mechanical feul pump to electric feul pump

Post by ICE King »

Yes it's possible but not needed in your case, The mechanical fuel pump is not expensive so would suggest changing it anyway.
Check for leaks by carb base plate , Clean carb with carb cleaner.Also check that air filter is clean
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Re: Mechanical feul pump to electric feul pump

Post by amstel18 »

Your problem with the "sluk" you get is the accelerator pump on the carb. Not the mechanical pump.
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VAG Fan
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Re: Mechanical feul pump to electric feul pump

Post by VAG Fan »

Agreed. A faulty pump would lead to other symptoms. The hesitation on acceleration is an incorrect mixture, to lean or too rich.

One would have to
... measure whether the accelerator pump injects the correct amount (seeing that this occurs on acceleration)
... check the operation of the manual or automatic choke (seeing that this only occurs with a cold motor)
... check the baseplate of the carb for any air leaks.

P.S.: try to drive away directly after starting. It saves fuel and is actually less wear on the engine, because it heats up faster.
Mark R.
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2004 VW Golf TDI, type 1J, AHF, 317k (2016-current) --- daily
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Previous:
1992 Audi 500 SE, type C4, AAR (2001-2020) --- nice while it lasted
1983 VW Golf GTS, type 17, FR (1992-2005) --- most fun car I've ever had
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ChrisC20
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Re: Mechanical feul pump to electric feul pump

Post by ChrisC20 »

Choke doesn’t work. The guy I bought it from used an incorrect wire (not cable!) for it to work. It slipped out. Its too thick to pull the choke anyway.
I will check the accelerator pump.


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Re: Mechanical feul pump to electric feul pump

Post by Bad Ash »

ChrisC20 wrote:Choke doesn’t work. The guy I bought it from used an incorrect wire (not cable!) for it to work. It slipped out. Its too thick to pull the choke anyway.
I will check the accelerator pump.


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The choke cable is very cheap at goldwagen. Less then R100. Get the choke working as its important on a cold engine. Once it reaches operating temperature the hesitation should stop. If it doesnt fix the issue then you can check if its fuel related.
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Re: Mechanical feul pump to electric feul pump

Post by ChrisC20 »

Thanx.


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ChrisC20
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Mechanical feul pump to electric feul pump

Post by ChrisC20 »

Make yourselves ready for a stupid question...

I had only worked on Beetle carbs before. I have a ‘63 1500 beetle. Those are so straight forward.

Anyway, stupid question... what does the accelerator pump look like?
If I’m facing the grill, where is it possitioned? Left, right, front, back...

Edit: is it a screw that I adjust?

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ChrisC20
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Re: Mechanical feul pump to electric feul pump

Post by ChrisC20 »

I think I found the problem. The Carb was sitting very loose on the base plate. So I tightend it down. No more hesitation on acceleration.
Although I would replace the base plate, because there is still alot of play on the carb. It feels like its sitting on a rubber?

I would eventually change to a Weber 36DCD carb.


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Re: Mechanical feul pump to electric feul pump

Post by VAG Fan »

The base plate must be elastic to accommodate some movement and damp vibrations. [Edits added in square brackets] [It actually consists of... ] two plates (one bolting onto the carb, the other onto the manifold) [and they] are encased (or cast) in rubber. So what you're feeling, is quite normal and intentional.

Concerning the choke, with our South African temperatures, even in winter a choke is really only needed for start-up. I always push mine back immediately after starting, as I drive away. In fact, I ran a Keihin carb on my Mk1 for quite some time without having its choke connected at all, and the only problem was a slightly hesitant cold start and a low idle speed while the engine warmed up.

The accelerator pump is a plunger (with a little rubber bellows) that is operated by an actuating lever. Depending on the carb, the injection quantity is typically adjusted either by bending the lever [or by bending a stop tab] or by turning a spring-loaded adjustment nut on the actuating lever.
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2004 VW Golf TDI, type 1J, AHF, 317k (2016-current) --- daily
1990 VW Fox, type 16, HM, 304k (2005-current) --- spare runaround
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1992 Audi 500 SE, type C4, AAR (2001-2020) --- nice while it lasted
1983 VW Golf GTS, type 17, FR (1992-2005) --- most fun car I've ever had
1978 Audi 100 GLS 5E, type 43, WC (1991-92) --- died in the side of a Rekord who cut me off
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turboprop101
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Re: Mechanical feul pump to electric feul pump

Post by turboprop101 »

Hello Guys
So if you were to change from the mechanical pump..... What electric pump should you buy ?
I was told by the man at Autozone to go for a 3.6 psi HUCO 133000 pump.
This I did now I suffer from overfueling. I now bought a valve to try and restrict flow......

Any advice or ideas ?????
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