golf 1 head

[wesley ZA]

hi there..

i just need some advice before i go on any further.. my car blew the headgasket last month (i presume) there was no water in the oil but water or condensation build up was present on the top part of the motor... where the cam is and breather pipes.. i wasnt sure what went wrong so i pulled the head and decided the best route is to replace the headgasket and tappet gasket and so on.. also done stem seals while the head is off...

my questions is:
1) when re installing the head gasket do i need to put something on the gasket or can i dry install it?
2) what timing marks do i need to look for when resetting the timing?

this is my first time doing it so i just want to make sure before i screw something up!

thanx

[UDC]

no need to put anything on the head gasket, just get a good gasket, Victor Reinz or Elring and new head bolts if you can. Make sure both surfaces are clean and flat and install gasket in the correct direction/right side up....usually marked on the gasket or the writing facing up.

timing is fairly easy but set vehicle on TDC first before opening anything, then find all your timing marks, clean and mark them clearly, use tippex or white paint, also make a note of the tension on the belt.....see link below for timing marks.....this site had plenty pics on this but photobucket is not helping anymore so i cannot find any local posts but it is the same procedure.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.p ... p=85307558

[wesley ZA]

thanx!!

yeah i made a rookie screw up.. took head off without marking the timing positions...

[wesley ZA]

i checked the link out and i did notice all the marks are the same on my car also... so this really helps alot!

[UDC]

just ask questions if you get stuck....also dont forget head bolt torque settings 40nm the 60nm then 90degree then another 90degree

[wesley ZA]

where can i get new head bolts? goldwagen? as i have read its recommended to replace them... also seen guys say the last 90 feels sketchy... so im scared shitless the last thing i need is to strip something

[AlexTDi]

where can i get new head bolts? goldwagen? as i have read its recommended to replace them... also seen guys say the last 90 feels sketchy... so im scared shitless the last thing i need is to strip something

Elring head gasket and new head bolts from Goldwagen, just make sure you clean out the bolt holes properly to make sure there's no dirt or oil in there.
It might make a cracking type noise in the final 90 but it's nothing to worry about.

[panic-mechanic]

Whenever there is a blown headgasket get the head skimmed to clean as it was probably warped. Head gaskets don't just blow for no reason.

[missioner]

Whenever there is a blown headgasket get the head skimmed to clean as it was probably warped. *Head gaskets don't just blow for no reason*.

Agreed.

Have the radiator checked for flow and leaks. Otherwise replace it. New can be had for under R700.

Also have a close look at the water pump and both plastic flanges on the head. These are a known issue for water leaks. I normally just replace them when doing a head on a Citi as they are quite cheap and it's less headache.

Somewhat overlooked but also important are the Welsh plugs on the back of the block. If there are any "snail trails" of rust or dried coolant running down the block replace all three immediately. As they are not easy to inspect with the car on the ground, and tend only to leak when the engine is hot with the coolant evaporating before it drips on the floor, these can be a major cause of coolant loss and cause your hard work to come undone very fast.

Finally always make sure the 8mm pipe on the top of LHS of the radiator is clear and flowing nicely. Blow through the rubber hose that goes to the expansion bottle to see if it's clear as well. If these two are blocked air will stay trapped in the radiator and cause an airlock. This prevents the radiator from working and the car boils again.

[wesley ZA]

this is the thing i dont think the head gasket failed... i found a whitish sludge on the tappet cover and on the oil cap... when i pulled the breather pipe off some water came out... but it was clear water... cleaner than my tap water... no water went in the oil.. oil was very clean... i checked the block and welsh plugs... didnt see any antifreeze trails... i did found some oil on the pistons because of that i replaced the valve stem seals... no antifreeze was found on the pistons or valves... a friend told me it might have been just tappet cover gasket leaking so it build up condensation.

car never overheated once.. didnt boil once... never had any coolant issues.

but i took the head in to get skimmed and so on so that part is done.
im going too flush the radiator anyway and clean all the pipes.. i have some pics of the tappet cover but not sure how to post it.. i know if your oil is grayish then water got into it.

i got the head back from skimming so when i start my car again just hope i did everything correctly.

[panic-mechanic]

The sludge found on top is becuase of evaporation and short distances. It is usually found in cars that does the daily grind in such short distances that they never heat up properly.

[wesley ZA]

i stay 4km from work takes me about 10min to get to work and back home... the fan starts spinning always when i park at home... oh well might have been nothing wrong at least new gaskets and stem seals... the head has been reconned and skimmed so... wil have happy driving for a few years again haha... thanx for all the help and advice it really did help! u guys are awesome

[caddy club]

isn't there a gasket sealant spray that you can use and spray the gasket before fitting just for a better seal

[panic-mechanic]

Spanjaard copper gasket maker if you fell you have to use something
http://spanjaard.biz/product/copper-gasket-sealer/

[caddy club]

yes that's the one thanks Panic