Dicktator ignition help.

[PapaJo]

I will try and do that as i disconnected the ecu and tried fitting the std ecu and short loom to see if it can start but no luck as the spark is also a no show here hence why im wanting to move over the the dictator.

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Your issue might be the TP100 then as you said it did become very hot before. It does get hot though and needs to be firmly mounted to a flat steel surface to get rid of the heat. They usually come mounted on an aluminium base to help getting rid of heat.

What you can do is return wiring as it was before cutting wires to install. Take distributor out of the block, switch car on and turn distributor by hand and check if toy get any spark. If not, the TP100 might be toast.

[Ryanmd]

Did that test. New tp100 was fitted already as there is spark when its tested as said with dictator ecu connections removed.

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[PapaJo]

Did that test. New tp100 was fitted already as there is spark when its tested as said with dictator ecu connections removed.

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Ok, now then it means that wiring to the Dicktator for spark needs to be checked as the distributor and TP100 does give you spark when connected without the Dicktator.

The signal wire from distributor (green with white trace, the middle wire on the plug at the distributor) has to be cut close to the TP100 plug end and then the wire coming from the distributor side is then connected to the green wire on pin 1 on Dictator to get the trigger pulse into the ecu. Cut this about 10 cm from the TP100 end as it its easier to join wires at the TP100 end, than running one wire to distributor and other back to TP100. The yellow with black trace (ignition 1 output from Dicktator) from pin 6 on ecu plug is then connected to short piece of wire at the pin 6 wire from TP100, this is then giving the coil pulse from Dicktator through to TP100.

The rest of your TP100 wiring stay exactly the same as it was before. It is just the signal wire to pin 6 on the TP100 that is cut and feed into the Dicktator and back to the TP100.

[Ryanmd]

Thanks. Noted. So the closer the yellow/black is to the tp100 the better it is for it to pulse? Also do i have to shield those two wires perhaps?

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[Ryanmd]

I have tried all this but was not able to make the video tho. Removed it to refit std ecu but still have no spark. All i would like to do us test the ecu to confirm if its at fault or not to be able to move forward now.

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[PapaJo]

Thanks. Noted. So the closer the yellow/black is to the tp100 the better it is for it to pulse? Also do i have to shield those two wires perhaps?

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The answer to both your questions are NO. It just makes it easier to join wires at the TP100 end as you will be running the yellow black trace wire to the TP100 and it makes your wiring easier.

[PapaJo]

I have tried all this but was not able to make the video tho. Removed it to refit std ecu but still have no spark. All i would like to do us test the ecu to confirm if its at fault or not to be able to move forward now.

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I see you are in Cape Town. Take your ecu to the shop where you bought it and ask them to test it for you.

If they cannot assist, you need to seek a shop in Cape Town area that can assist you to check out your wiring.

Suggest you get in contact with Thanas or Pynoxim on the forum as they are in Cape Town area and could possibly assist or direct you to someone.

[Ryanmd]

Thanks. I will def look into it. Apreciate the advice

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[Ryanmd]

Good day guys. So i managed to get car going and tuned with std dictator but I have a ping and was advised to lower compression. I understand there several ways of which i could go about it but i am trying to go with the inexpensive one. This means two head gaskets (metal). Im finding them abit expensive so i was wondering if I am able to use the normal gasket instead of metal?
The guy who tuned the car said my compression ratio is well above the 10:1 estimate given the mods. Please advise if this could work long term or not.

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[Jetta2]

Did this tuner strip the motor down, measure things like the precise bore, precise stroke, compression height of the pistons, deck height of the block, combustion chamber volume, piston dome volume, etc and then calculate what the compression ratio actually is?

If not, rather go use a tuner that knows what they are talking about and what they are doing with regards to tuning.

Measurements needed to determine the CR:

Cylinder bore diameter
Crankshaft stroke length
Head gasket bore diameter
Head gasket compressed thickness
Combustion chamber volume
Piston dome volume
Piston deck clearance volume

There is NO way to say what CR a motor has just by guessing. It does not matter who you are or how much experience you have with motors, if those measurements are not done, there is ZERO chance of thumbsucking a compression ratio.

[Ryanmd]

Well no not as u detailed it, Lol. But given the mods could it be? Because with my std ecu(polocup) it also pinged prior to fitting and tuning dictator. Could it be that compression is just to high for normal pump fuel or is it just a bad tuner? I'd preferably stick to one decent guy than have to many hands work on the car aswel. But if i need to get another tuner then i would if he is at fault and not advising me correctly. This is also why i reached out to u guys here for some insight moving fwd.

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[PapaJo]

Did this tuner strip the motor down, measure things like the precise bore, precise stroke, compression height of the pistons, deck height of the block, combustion chamber volume, piston dome volume, etc and then calculate what the compression ratio actually is?

If not, rather go use a tuner that knows what they are talking about and what they are doing with regards to tuning.

Measurements needed to determine the CR:

Cylinder bore diameter
Crankshaft stroke length
Head gasket bore diameter
Head gasket compressed thickness
Combustion chamber volume
Piston dome volume
Piston deck clearance volume

There is NO way to say what CR a motor has just by guessing. It does not matter who you are or how much experience you have with motors, if those measurements are not done, there is ZERO chance of thumbsucking a compression ratio.

Fully agree with comments from Jetta2.

@Raynmd,

You did post this about your motor setup on previous page,

“Current setup it golf 2litre 8v head with 276h cam,bottom end is 1.8kjet with caravelle piston conversion and 2litre steel crank.”

In that setup it is very likely that compression is above 10:1 compression ratio and only way to know exact compression ratio as mentioned by Jetta2.

If could also be that tuner did not set timing correctly for your setup. If you can post a snapshot of your current timing map and explain at what rpm you are getting the ping, we can get an idea whether it is maybe just timing related.

[Ryanmd]

Noted. Will try and gather more info. I kinda forgot sizes of some things. Will try and get hold of the guy who did the engineering work.

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[Ryanmd]

Did this tuner strip the motor down, measure things like the precise bore, precise stroke, compression height of the pistons, deck height of the block, combustion chamber volume, piston dome volume, etc and then calculate what the compression ratio actually is?

If not, rather go use a tuner that knows what they are talking about and what they are doing with regards to tuning.

Measurements needed to determine the CR:

Cylinder bore diameter
Crankshaft stroke length
Head gasket bore diameter
Head gasket compressed thickness
Combustion chamber volume
Piston dome volume
Piston deck clearance volume

There is NO way to say what CR a motor has just by guessing. It does not matter who you are or how much experience you have with motors, if those measurements are not done, there is ZERO chance of thumbsucking a compression ratio.

Fully agree with comments from Jetta2.

@Raynmd,

You did post this about your motor setup on previous page,

“Current setup it golf 2litre 8v head with 276h cam,bottom end is 1.8kjet with caravelle piston conversion and 2litre steel crank.”

In that setup it is very likely that compression is above 10:1 compression ratio and only way to know exact compression ratio as mentioned by Jetta2.

If could also be that tuner did not set timing correctly for your setup. If you can post a snapshot of your current timing map and explain at what rpm you are getting the ping, we can get an idea whether it is maybe just timing related.

When tuning i heard him mention timing is at 15degree with timing light.

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[PapaJo]

Is that 15 degrees at idle? 1000rpm or 15 degrees where you hear the ping? For idle 15 degrees are a bit high.

[Ryanmd]

From 3k rpm onwards and when i crank to start it has ping.

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[Ryanmd]

I will dial in tomorrow and take pics of the maps for u guys.

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[missioner]

Another reason for the pinging is when the piston is very slightly touching the cylinder head.

This happened on my 1.9l motor. I made a miscalculation on piston protrusion on the squish pad.

Your motor is basically custom built and must have had all the clearances checked before hand.

Just realised you said you have a short block 2.0l, that means the mp3 and no4 conrods could be touching the block and or the intermediate shaft at the distributor gear end.

[PapaJo]

From 3k rpm onwards and when i crank to start it has ping.

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Sounds more like it is a motor clearance issue inside your motor if you say it ping during cranking too.

I addition to missioners post on big end rod to block and intermediate shaft clearance and possibly squish pad on piston hitting the head.

What oil pump are you using? The 2L 2e oil pump with the cut down (thinned down) mid section of the oil pump shaft needs to be used to enable the no:4 conrod not to touch the oil pump shaft.

[missioner]

From 3k rpm onwards and when i crank to start it has ping.

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Sounds more like it is a motor clearance issue inside your motor if you say it ping during cranking too.

I addition to missioners post on big end rod to block and intermediate shaft clearance and possibly squish pad on piston hitting the head.

What oil pump are you using? The 2L 2e oil pump with the cut down (thinned down) mid section of the oil pump shaft needs to be used to enable the no:4 conrod not to touch the oil pump shaft.

I knew about the oil pump mount face also needing clearance and the intermediate shaft.

The oil pump drive also? That's quite a lot of machine work and lots of potential issues.

[PapaJo]

I think the easiest part to start is by dropping the sump and turn motor over by hand and look at the areas mentioned in previous posts to check for possible contact in the mentioned areas.

If no contact observed, I’m afraid it will mean stripping the head off and check the piston to head and piston to head clearances as well as measure and work out compression ratio.

[Ryanmd]

Good day. Yes those areas are cleared away. Intermediate shaft is cleared aswell as by the oil pump. I double checked prior to closing up as i requested engineers to assemble the block. What i did was i degreed the cam 2degrees -ve yesterday after clutch replacement so i will check when driving later today. This morning i didnt notice any pinging on startup.

Also with regards to what i mentioned about my conversion can u guys perhaps not workout detailed sizes as Jetta2 mentioned?

I used 2.6 carevelle pistons decked 0.5 below block top,std 1.8ev block and rods,2litre steel crank used and std 1.8 oil pump.

Does this help determine anything perhaps,or do i need to supply more info?

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[missioner]

What's strange is the piston height.

Short block 2.0l shouldn't need the pistons topped, it should work as is.

I'm with Jo on this one, drop the sump and look. I'm not convinced all your problems are over. Removing some timing from the cam shouldn't have any effect. This one is a head scratcher.

[PapaJo]

Good day. Yes those areas are cleared away. Intermediate shaft is cleared aswell as by the oil pump. I double checked prior to closing up as i requested engineers to assemble the block. What i did was i degreed the cam 2degrees -ve yesterday after clutch replacement so i will check when driving later today. This morning i didnt notice any pinging on startup.

Also with regards to what i mentioned about my conversion can u guys perhaps not workout detailed sizes as Jetta2 mentioned?

I used 2.6 carevelle pistons decked 0.5 below block top,std 1.8ev block and rods,2litre steel crank used and std 1.8 oil pump.

Does this help determine anything perhaps,or do i need to supply more info?

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The std 1.8 oil pump does not have the shaft machined down like the 2L 2e oil pump.

You say you could not hear any ping on startup this morning after -2 degrees on the camshaft pulley.

Was the head skimmed or is head still standard, bar the 276h cam?

[Ryanmd]

Good day. Yes those areas are cleared away. Intermediate shaft is cleared aswell as by the oil pump. I double checked prior to closing up as i requested engineers to assemble the block. What i did was i degreed the cam 2degrees -ve yesterday after clutch replacement so i will check when driving later today. This morning i didnt notice any pinging on startup.

Also with regards to what i mentioned about my conversion can u guys perhaps not workout detailed sizes as Jetta2 mentioned?

I used 2.6 carevelle pistons decked 0.5 below block top,std 1.8ev block and rods,2litre steel crank used and std 1.8 oil pump.

Does this help determine anything perhaps,or do i need to supply more info?

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The std 1.8 oil pump does not have the shaft machined down like the 2L 2e oil pump.

You say you could not hear any ping on startup this morning after -2 degrees on the camshaft pulley.

Was the head skimmed or is head still standard, bar the 276h cam?

Head skimmed 0.5mm port/flowed including intake.

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