Help with setting carb

[JVA]

I need some help with setting the replacement carb on my car. Trying to get it back to stock so I replaced the weber with one of those WAG ones goldwagen sells.
Now I can't seem to get it running properly. It runs but when I take my foot off the accelerator or come to a stop the car dies. It's also not running smoothly, stutters when accelerating. I'm not sure if i connected all the vacuum hoses correctly, I know the one on the back goes to the distributor but what about the one on the front? Also I think my timing might be a little off. I just want to get it running ok-ish for now, will have it tuned properly next week when I get time.

[UDC]

Did you connect the idle solenoid + at the back of carb
you also need to earth the carb, normal a cable from tappet cover to carb to complete the idle solenoid circuit.

[JVA]

Did you connect the idle solenoid + at the back of carb
you also need to earth the carb, normal a cable from tappet cover to carb to complete the idle solenoid circuit.

yeah it's earthed and the solenoid is connected, the solenoid "clicks" when I turn the ignition on so I think it's fine.

[freezaburn]

+1 on the idle solenoid and earth

The vacuum at the bottom front of the carb usually goes to the vacuum pump* on the side.

*Older models had this vacuum go onto the side of the air filter housing first which was controlled by a temp sensor inside to open/close the a vacuum flap at the end of the air inlet, to allow for hot air from the engine to ease cold starts. (Was completely removed in later models since SA weather is never that cold).

[megesh]

check base plate adapter for air leaks...

[JVA]

+1 on the idle solenoid and earth

The vacuum at the bottom front of the carb usually goes to the vacuum pump* on the side.

*Older models had this vacuum go onto the side of the air filter housing first which was controlled by a temp sensor inside to open/close the a vacuum flap at the end of the air inlet, to allow for hot air from the engine to ease cold starts. (Was completely removed in later models since SA weather is never that cold).

Is that the bigger one of the 2 vacuum pumps? There's a smaller one too on the side but I think that one is for the aircon idle up. I'll have a look at the wires, maybe there's a loose one somewhere and not making contact properly.

check base plate adapter for air leaks...

I don't think it's the base plate as I bought a new one with the carb, will check though..

[MarshallGTi]

maybe just bite the bullet and get it tuned now rather than next week. most mechanics will be able to set the timing and CO's

[JVA]

maybe just bite the bullet and get it tuned now rather than next week. most mechanics will be able to set the timing and CO's

I'm just too busy to get away from work at the moment.

[JVA]

ok heres a photo I just took..
I drew a red line where I connected the front nozzle to the pump on the side, the green one is for the aircon if I'm not mistaken? Should I plug it or can I just leave it like that?

The car idles, it's just that when driving and releasing the accelerator or stopping that it dies and I have to start it up again..

[JVA]

what size jets do these carbs come with?

[M3THANOL]

The one with the green question mark doesn't need to be connected and neither does the one with the red line if memory serves me correctly. There are two important ones, the vacuum line that goes to the second stage actuator(the black pipe that is connected in the picture). Then there is also a vacuum line that must go from the back of the carb(it is the nipple that is angled towards the passenger side) that needs to go to the vacuum advance on the dizzy. There is also a vacuum port that needs to be blocked off at the back of the carb, it is the nipple that faces straight towards the firewall.

[JVA]

The one with the green question mark doesn't need to be connected and neither does the one with the red line if memory serves me correctly. There are two important ones, the vacuum line that goes to the second stage actuator(the black pipe that is connected in the picture). Then there is also a vacuum line that must go from the back of the carb(it is the nipple that is angled towards the passenger side) that needs to go to the vacuum advance on the dizzy. There is also a vacuum port that needs to be blocked off at the back of the carb, it is the nipple that faces straight towards the firewall.

hmm ok I didn't see the second port on the back of the carb.. the angled one on the back is connected to the dizzy though. will have a look later and block off the second one if ti's open. thanks for the advise..
What's puzzling me is the jet sizes, how can they be the same for a 1600 and 1800 engine?

[M3THANOL]

these carbs are supplied with a general jetting, it works for a 1.3 to a 1.8. It was also a MAJOR annoyance for me when I still had my 1.6 carb motor, I couldn't seem to get the correct jetting, you have to buy an entire carb kit, they don't sell the jets alone.

[UDC]

did you connect the choke on the carb, when cold that could be the reason for it stalling, also check that the choke is fully closed if not in use

[JVA]

did you connect the choke on the carb, when cold that could be the reason for it stalling, also check that the choke is fully closed if not in use

no I must still connect the choke, will check if fully closed. But it does the same whether engine is cold or warmed up.

[UDC]

could be choke is slightly open and you closed the idle screw too much cause choke was compensating for the idle

[DCShoes]

Remove the pipe where you have the red line on your pic.
That vacume diaphragm is for the idle up on aircon models.

Where your green question mark is, is where that pipe should be going to.
It is the diaghragm that forces the choke plate open if the engine is about to stall.

So, where you have the "red" pipe now - take it off the pipe that has the red ring on it, and move it up to the pipe that has the green ring on it.

Everything else the other guys have said about the pipes at the back are correct.

[JVA]

Thanks for the help guys. Problem was with the wire coming through the firewall which I connected the idle solenoid to.. Seems like it wasn't supplying constant voltage or it was spiking or something. Connected it directly to the batteries positive with a toggle switch inside the care, runs perfectly now and I also have an anti theft device now.. lol

[VWXtremist]

Hi
I replaced mine with one of those as well "goldwagen".
Have you replaced / checked the "idling jet" ? Also at the back of the carb... there are to connectors for connecting your hose.. one is for aircon, and the other is the correct one... although...I will have to go chck wich is wich...

[smith]

Howzit guys okay so I brought one of those carbs too connected the positive and negative, my golf won't start its just turning any help pls it run before. Its the 1.8 motor

[panic-mechanic]

Did you try for a while? Remember the carb is empty so ot first needs to fill with fuel.

[Eldino]

Guys I also bought a wag carb need help setting the air fuel mixture and fast idle please.

[Eldino]

My choke is not in use should I keep it fully closed or slightly open

[VAG Fan]

If not using the choke, it should be fully retracted, in other words, the choke flap should be fully OPEN. Otherwise you're going to waste fuel. This just means that you have to "feed" the engine for a few seconds on a cold start.

Then make sure that the vacuum hoses and electrical connections are correct, as described above.
There are two screws at the back of the carb (firewall side). The angled one on the driver's side is the stop screw that regulates idle speed. The other one, in the back middle, is the mixture.
With the engine off, turn the mixture screw completely in, then turn it out by about 3 full turns. (Which is more or less where the factory should have set it.)
Start the engine, bring it to temperature, and get the idle speed reasonable using the idle speed screw.
Now turn the mixture screw in, until the idle JUST starts to drop, then turn it back out by about half a turn.
Now adjust the idle speed if necessary (about 800-900 rpm).
Re-check the mixture screw by turning in until the idle just dips, then turning back out by half a turn.
Basically you work to-and-fro between the two screws a few times.

That's the way I always did it, and it served me well.

[Eldino]

Ok thanks bra much appreciated. I will try that and come back to you.

I am also struggling with my exhaust manifold pipe flange the one with the 6 holes, it's leaking air. Can I replace it without taking my head of again?