How do I determine reliability (74kw polo)

[CarLoss]

Hi all so I’ve just purchased a clean 74kw polo comfortline with FSH and I basically just want to know if I should start tinkering with it.

Previous owner was an old person very meticulously maintained car (only used shell helix hx7 10w 40) cambelt done at 120k and clutch shortly after. It’s sitting on 180k now. I heard mixed views on the 74kw turbos some guys say they’re weak some say they have software for ages. Car was originally from Cape Town (does this actually make a difference since the turbo doesn’t work as hard as at altitude)? Some say as long as it’s under 1.3 bar it will be fine as long as you keep the right oil (how do i even verify the tuner will abide by this)

Basically will loading software pretty much instantly kill my turbo if this is the case i rather let it die on its own then upgrade to a BV39 or “should I be fine”

Also what maintenance should I be looking at at this mileage? Should I just replace the cambelt for peace of mind or do I have to do water pump rollers and tensioners all together even though they were done at 120k?

Other than that car drives perfectly fine interior fan is a bit loud and it pulls to the left a bit (could be a tiger wheel jobbie)

Would appreciate any input thanks

[Callum229]

I've got the 77kw engine.

I think it's the same though if not very similar.

You have a gem there. Expect turbos to last from 150 000kms to 250 000 or so depending on how it was driven.

Yes loading software would definitely give a short life to the turbo. I'm waiting for mines to die then I can upgrade to a hybrid set up. Rather tune it one time with a bigger turbo or a hybrid then strain your old one, last thing you want is for it to blow and cause a mess.

The belt life is 120k kms, the tensioner at the same time, waterpump and rollers. If it was done and you have the receipts as proof then safe to say you can go till 240 000kms without any issues.

Some other maintenance items, change fuel filter, check suspension bushings, wheel bearings usually go out around this mileage too. Make sure you use 505.01 spec engine oil. Change gearbox oil as well. Dual mass flywheel also tends to go out around 150 000 kms but I'm sure the clutch and flywheel was changed as well.

Also clean EGR and intake manifold as those tend to get gunked up.

Either then that, these cars tend to run forever especially if serviced on time, treated right and not abused.

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[CarLoss]

I've got the 77kw engine.

I think it's the same though if not very similar.

You have a gem there. Expect turbos to last from 150 000kms to 250 000 or so depending on how it was driven.

Yes loading software would definitely give a short life to the turbo. I'm waiting for mines to die then I can upgrade to a hybrid set up. Rather tune it one time with a bigger turbo or a hybrid then strain your old one, last thing you want is for it to blow and cause a mess.

The belt life is 120k kms, the tensioner at the same time, waterpump and rollers. If it was done and you have the receipts as proof then safe to say you can go till 240 000kms without any issues.

Some other maintenance items, change fuel filter, check suspension bushings, wheel bearings usually go out around this mileage too. Make sure you use 505.01 spec engine oil. Change gearbox oil as well. Dual mass flywheel also tends to go out around 150 000 kms but I'm sure the clutch and flywheel was changed as well.

Also clean EGR and intake manifold as those tend to get gunked up.

Either then that, these cars tend to run forever especially if serviced on time, treated right and not abused.

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Hi thanks for the reply, makes sense, what is the difference between hybrid or putting a bigger one completely. Do I have to remove the manifold completely or is there some sort of product i can use to clean it

[CarLoss]

I do feel a slight shudder when i release the clutch, blipping the throttle takes it away is that normal

[Callum229]

Hybrid is taking the same turbo, putting bigger vanes, stronger bearings, etc. Only to make small power, I would say up to 120kw. There are tuners that can chip with the original turbo and produce similar power but it puts a lot more strain on the turbo and drastically reduces the life of it.

You would need a bigger turbo if you want more power then that, but you might have to upgrade injectors to the 96kw sportline injectors which are expensive or even bigger ones, plus intercooler and piping, so can get expensive fast.

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[Callum229]

Do you have a receipt showing that the flywheel and pressure plate(which is one piece) was changed? Or was it just the clutch only? If not, the flywheel might be on its way out. It could also be a warped pressure plate.

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[CarLoss]

Ah ok so which is the cheaper option between by
Hybrid and a bigger one?

Ah cr@p i think the seller’s caught me out there, they said clutch but doesn’t mean flywheel as well. The shudder is very slight but it’s still there should I just ignore it

[Callum229]

Hybrid is cheaper.

If you go bigger turbo but push let's say 100 kW or so, you going to have some nice turbo lag. Hybrid takes your existing turbo and modifies it rather then buying a whole new turbo and manifold. Not to mention all the other parts you might have to upgrade and everything will be plug and play. However note, if you want big power, rather just go with a bigger turbo and slowly upgrade the rest of the components as you go along.

If it's slight, then ignore, but if it gets worse, it will have to be replaced, you should also hear a slight clanking noise in neutral. Try not to dump the clutch or shift hard and drive hard as if it's the dual mass flywheel on its way out, it will make the end of it come way sooner but safe to say, budget for a good clutch and flywheel replacement.

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[CarLoss]

Thanks yeah right now I’m not looking for big power (have to pay the thing off) but if my turbo goes I’ll do hybrid then probably go BT at some point in the future

Theres no sound at all from the clutch sounds normal

[Rourke]

Ah ok so which is the cheaper option between by
Hybrid and a bigger one?

Ah cr@p i think the seller’s caught me out there, they said clutch but doesn’t mean flywheel as well. The shudder is very slight but it’s still there should I just ignore it

Hey

I'm just wondering

do you not have the contact for the previous owner?

If u say he is old and cared for the car he will be able to tell you if he did the flywheel and pressure plate when he did the clutch, or am i wrong?

Noted that the clutch has a shudder on it now and that info might not help at all anyway.

If u do feel u need it sorted, I wonder if u can just take it to a clutch specilist to check it out for you. Might be cheaper to remove it and take the whole clutch,flywheel,pressure plate assembly in to have it checked.( I say this as there is no telling which 1 component is the culprit).
You dont want to buy all new expensive items just to find out yours was fine.

jm2c
cheers

[Rourke]

Hybrid is cheaper.

If you go bigger turbo but push let's say 100 kW or so, you going to have some nice turbo lag. Hybrid takes your existing turbo and modifies it rather then buying a whole new turbo and manifold. Not to mention all the other parts you might have to upgrade and everything will be plug and play. However note, if you want big power, rather just go with a bigger turbo and slowly upgrade the rest of the components as you go along.

If it's slight, then ignore, but if it gets worse, it will have to be replaced, you should also hear a slight clanking noise in neutral. Try not to dump the clutch or shift hard and drive hard as if it's the dual mass flywheel on its way out, it will make the end of it come way sooner but safe to say, budget for a good clutch and flywheel replacement.

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How much can this dual mass fly wheel assmbly cost about ?

i ask cos i remember on a navara I heard it can cost upto 12 000 just for the flywheel.

Also how does 1 determain if a diesel engine is healthy ? in terms of rings bearing and head wear. In a pertrol engine if it smokes white its oil burning from valve stem seals rings and black smoke and oil out the exhaust is rings etc .
So what is tell signs of wear on a diesel engine?
I might be high jacking ,but this could also help the OP.

Cheers

[Callum229]

Yep, 1.9 TDI's are incredibly reliable especially if they are looked after. So doing it in stages is perfect.

If it is a slight judder, I am sure that you can live with it, but if it gets worse, you have to check it before it damages something else.

Dual mass flywheel kits can cost from R3,5K for just the clutch or just the flywheel to around R7k for the set, the sportline TDI(96 KW) I know that the kits for that cost R12 000 or so. So yes it is expensive.

For a diesel engine note the following -

Blue smoke - Oil burning - Rings, valve stem seals, turbo seals
Black smoke - Overfuelling, leaking injectors, tuned engine, not enough air.
White smoke - Coolant burning, headgasket, leaking injectors, low compression, rings, low fuel pressure.

I found this that goes in more detail.

https://www.capitalremanexchange.com/ca ... -by-color/

Struggling to start - Cam or crank sensors, low compression, glow plugs.

A scan should also show up any faults. Usually though a bad engine will smoke blue or white constantly indicating something is seriously wrong.

[CarLoss]

Ah ok so which is the cheaper option between by
Hybrid and a bigger one?

Ah cr@p i think the seller’s caught me out there, they said clutch but doesn’t mean flywheel as well. The shudder is very slight but it’s still there should I just ignore it

Hey

I'm just wondering

do you not have the contact for the previous owner?

If u say he is old and cared for the car he will be able to tell you if he did the flywheel and pressure plate when he did the clutch, or am i wrong?

Noted that the clutch has a shudder on it now and that info might not help at all anyway.

If u do feel u need it sorted, I wonder if u can just take it to a clutch specilist to check it out for you. Might be cheaper to remove it and take the whole clutch,flywheel,pressure plate assembly in to have it checked.( I say this as there is no telling which 1 component is the culprit).
You dont want to buy all new expensive items just to find out yours was fine.

jm2c
cheers

Funny enough I drove it again this morning after complaining yesterday and guess what the shudder is gone, installed a new Sony head unit today and it completely transformed the sound setup would highly recommend. Other than that I’m really enjoying it been hooning around and still sitting at 6.3/100km also hit a pothole and wrecked a tyre so transfered the spare onto the rim lol.. really having fun with the boost, will decat on the weekend and respray the standard 5 bar rims gloss black

[Callum229]

Are you only removing the cat?

Do you mind sending me a video via PM or on this thread after you get it done? I want to do mines as well but not sure how loud it will get and whether your turbo will whistle.

Any idea how much it would cost too? As I want a new downpipe made, not use the existing one and just chop the cat off as I want to save my old cat incase I ever need it.

It does get addictive, torque feels amazing. When not hammering it, expect around 4 to 5l per 100km on the freeway.

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[VGTI]

Previous owner was an old person very meticulously maintained car (only used shell helix hx7 10w 40)

Make sure what oil the Toppie used cause this one is not correct... You need the Shell Helix HX7 AV 5W30

My Clutch and Turbo are still the stock units fitted at the factory. After 408000km they are still fine.

It don't baby the car but I also don't abuse it.

[Callum229]

Wow, 408 000 kms. That is insane. Do you have the 96kw or the 74?

Recommended oil from VW is Castrol Edge 5w 30 505.01 but any oil which meets that spec is fine.

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[VGTI]

Wow, 408 000 kms. That is insane. Do you have the 96kw or the 74?

Recommended oil from VW is Castrol Edge 5w 30 505.01 but any oil which meets that spec is fine.

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I have a 96

The normal Shell HX7 10W40 is VW505.00 and not VW505.01

The HX7 AV is VW505.01

[CarLoss]

Previous owner was an old person very meticulously maintained car (only used shell helix hx7 10w 40)

Make sure what oil the Toppie used cause this one is not correct... You need the Shell Helix HX7 AV 5W30

My Clutch and Turbo are still the stock units fitted at the factory. After 408000km they are still fine.

It don't baby the car but I also don't abuse it.

He used 10w40 is that fine, i warm it up but when it’s warm i send it then cool it down about 5km from destination. That mileage is insane what major maintenance have you done

[CarLoss]

If the car has been using 10w40 instead of 5w40 is that a bad thing, should i change it at the next service?

[Callum229]

Nope that's fine.

The 10 is the flow at cold temp, because we don't even get that cold or freezing temps, it should be fine. The only thing you should be worrying about is the end number must either be a 40 or a 30 and it must meet VW spec 505.01.

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[VGTI]

The biggest issue with the oil is the shear qualities. The PD engines drive the injectors off the camshaft. So the oils have to be VW505.01 spec.

If you don't use the correct oil it can lead to pre mature wear on the cam lobes.

I would change it at the next service yes or even sooner.

My car has had no major work, only replaced a leaky Intercooler and Tandem Pump. Those were R2500 and R3300.

The rest were all normal maintenance.And very little at that!

[Callum229]

100% correct.

If it isn't 505.01 spec oil, change as soon as you can.

I had a family member use my car, I asked him to buy and change the oil for me, 5w 30 with spec 505.01. He bought oil that was recommended by the salesman(R300 oil, I should have been suspicious), put it in and the car was smoking blue. Apparently the mech that put the oil said the car is low on compression and thus oil burning(Starts immediately, has plenty of power). I was furious as it never burned oil, and he left it like that for a month(Apparently low compression isn't an issue). When I saw the car, that is when I discovered that the car was smoking.

He used Shell 5w30 HX5 for GASOLINE engines. I kid you not.

Ever since that my car always smokes blue when cold. So always try and use the correct oil. Wrong oil can destroy a perfect engine.

[Unobeat]

100% correct.

If it isn't 505.01 spec oil, change as soon as you can.

I had a family member use my car, I asked him to buy and change the oil for me, 5w 30 with spec 505.01. He bought oil that was recommended by the salesman(R300 oil, I should have been suspicious), put it in and the car was smoking blue. Apparently the mech that put the oil said the car is low on compression and thus oil burning(Starts immediately, has plenty of power). I was furious as it never burned oil, and he left it like that for a month(Apparently low compression isn't an issue). When I saw the car, that is when I discovered that the car was smoking.

He used Shell 5w30 HX5 for GASOLINE engines. I kid you not.

Ever since that my car always smokes blue when cold. So always try and use the correct oil. Wrong oil can destroy a perfect engine.

Double agree about using oil spec as it takes care of the motor.