I have a golf 4 tdi ahf engine. My diesel pump is leaking fuel. Can I replace the seals or do I need a new pump?

Northern Diesel in pretoria. Phone them. make an appointment. Drop car. Cry when you pay the bill.
But that is about the only people I would let touch it if it was mine.
Just check that it is not a loose bolt or nut on a pipe.
http://www.northerndiesel.co.za/DIESEL%20PUMPS.htm

panic-mechanic wrote:Northern Diesel in pretoria. Phone them. make an appointment. Drop car. Cry when you pay the bill.
But that is about the only people I would let touch it if it was mine.
Just check that it is not a loose bolt or nut on a pipe.
http://www.northerndiesel.co.za/DIESEL%20PUMPS.htm

Thanks Panic I called them the guy that strips the car is on leave for 2 weeks. They can only assist me for now if I can strip the pump and send it to them. Cost will be -+ R8k. Is it a hard job to strip?

There is no way that it will cost that much to fix a leak.
It can be as simple as a gasket or o-ring that needs to be replaced. Which wil not even cost you more than a R100
Just get someone who will be able to fit it for you.

I recall martin doing the seals on his jetta a while back.

Theres plenty diy's on the old ve motors so cant be too difficult to do. Certainly not 8k difficult

Sent from my D5503 using Tapatalk

8k was to replace all the seals and recalibrate

Seal kit is a few hundred bucks from Bosch. Series of diy videos on youtube. First one here: https://youtube.com/watch?v=VR44StvcXms
See http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/fuel- ... placement/ as well.
I bought the kit, but then the pump somehow stopped leaking.
There is a tamper proof bolt that has a triangular shape head. Can be removed by hitting a hex socket over it.
Calibration done via vcds. Not a R8000 job imo.

Ey some people in the automotive business take other people for a ride

Here's the link to martin's rides thread:

http://vwclub.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php ... p#p1983915

Thanks guys going to try the diy. Anyone has that anti tamper nut removal tool to lend me or know where I can buy it from

I had the same issue.

Seals shrunk due to using 50 ppm diesel.

Switched to 500 ppm and the leak is gone now.

If you prefer changing the seals then this can be done with the pump on the car as per the video link in posted already .

So I decided to do the DIY as I was away on leave. I followed the videos accurately except I did not mark the cover position on the pump ;(. Now car only swings and no start. I bled the injectors and fuel is flowing thru all four. What else can I check before I tow the car to a diesel place or is there anyone in the east rand that can assist me please

so did you make timing marks before stripping, set it all to tdc and set it exactly the same after?.
Have you installed the fuel pipes in the correct order?.

I am in the east rand but swamped with work. How much of a hurry?.

Stephan,

Why would the cambelt timing be out, requiring marks and TDC, if only the VE pump seals have been replaced? As far as I've been able to see on various videos, the pump stays in the car, and nothing is done on the cambelt / valve-train. It's only the cover (one seal) and the metering unit (another seal) that are removed from the VE pump. The metering unit needs to be positioned correctly when re-assembling, in order to get correct fuelling.

I'm really beginning to wonder how this job can cost R6k or more.

Yeah apparently he did not remove the pump.
I assumed he did as I would personally not like to do that with the pump in place.

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=218789

panic-mechanic wrote:Yeah apparently he did not remove the pump.
I assumed he did as I would personally not like to do that with the pump in place.

correct . Car is being towed to Stephan tonite . Thank you again Stephan for helping me in such short notice.

Ah, OK, I understand.

Car was with panic mechanic and the diagnosis is bad. I have a broken shaft in the diesel pump. So I need a new injector pump. Does anyone have one for sale or know of anyone selling one please let me kniw

SpikePCR wrote:Car was with panic mechanic and the diagnosis is bad. I have a broken shaft in the diesel pump. So I need a new injector pump. Does anyone have one for sale or know of anyone selling one please let me kniw

How did that happen? Wrong installation of the seals?

Ditto, was wondering the same thing.

Rudi46 wrote:

SpikePCR wrote:Car was with panic mechanic and the diagnosis is bad. I have a broken shaft in the diesel pump. So I need a new injector pump. Does anyone have one for sale or know of anyone selling one please let me kniw

How did that happen? Wrong installation of the seals?

Must be

Damn this is bad news. Will see if i can find something

Just do a quick search around junkmail ir gumtree. Those rotory style ve pumps dont acrually fail on a regular basis. Just prime the pump with 500ppm and some turbo injector cleaner/ lubricator. This will reseal those old seals...

Cass wrote:Just do a quick search around junkmail ir gumtree. Those rotory style ve pumps dont acrually fail on a regular basis. Just prime the pump with 500ppm and some turbo injector cleaner/ lubricator. This will reseal those old seals...

Thanks bud Panic Mechanic(Stephan) has been down with bronchitis and as soon as time permits he will get to the car. Will keep you guys posted.

Yeah sorry about the delay.
Only sort of back on my feet today again. Have been pretty much man down since wed last week.
Ideally when You do the rear section the pump must be sitting vertically in a workbench and the VW service manual for seal replacement also states this. Yet guys find removing the pump too much work and attempt it in the car. Personally I would never do that.
The issue is this. When You do the rear section here is what goes wrong. and if you refer to that link I posted earlier the guys describes it very well and how to test it afterwards.
quote from his post as his states it very clearly.
Start Quote


The head seal must be replaced on your car (the ALHs have longer unloaded return spring length) in the middle of an injection stroke 'on cam'. You can either remove the quantity adjuster and verify that the cam plate has ridden up on the 4 pressure rollers, or remove the plug on the hydraulic head that is centered between the injector lines. Using a probe (like a drill bit) you can turn the pump/engine over and feel when the plunger moves in and out.

The problem when the head seal is replaced with the pump 'off cam' is this. The pump is assembled vertically, and as such the only thing holding the parts in position when it is mounted horizontally in the car is pressure from the two large return springs you saw when you pulled the QA off. When the hydraulic head is backed out, pressure on the return springs is relieved, and if pressure on them is not maximized by being on cam, parts can drop down. Usually it's a shim of thickness .7-4.5mm, between the plunger and the cam plate.

When the pump is turned over after this has occurred, the shaft is loaded in a sideways manner, and the shaft will snap as it is driven into the head crooked.

End quote.
So basically this is what happened here - there is no pressure generated by the pump and there is no in out movement of the plunger which means the shaft is broken inside and it is not turning the cam.
Although the basic job is quite simple it comes with some caveats and guys that simply tell people to do this should mention those - not just say - hey it's a simple job you cannot get it wrong - pull a DIY.
Sometimes that costs you dearly if you miss a simple step or deviate from the factory manual.
In this case the manual states - remove pump.
Place upright - turn to top of stroke.
now do the seal.