Educate me about paint quality

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lawrence
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Re: Educate me about paint quality

Post by lawrence »

SayedMK1 wrote:What i meant was you'll have to asses the damage on the paintwork ,and use the best suited polish to correct the flaws or you could end up making it worse ,also depends what equipment you use or you could cause damage to the paintwork especially on the edges thats what i meant when i said "make sure you know what you are doing" . Ive seen your work Lawrence i dont have to teach you .. :thumbup: . Just pointing it out from my personal experience , I have ruined some good panels before . :lol:
Well yeah but this is not specific to Menzerna - it applies to ALL polishes, and that is why you will always here me harping on about the need to always use the least aggressive method to get the job done.

So for example if you were using Meguiars products you'd first do a test spot with something like M205 before jumping straight into a compound like M105 or M101. Likewise with Menzerna you'd test SF4000 before trying PF2300 before trying FG400 etc etc.

As for the edges, this is something that I see all too often (even in videos online of supposed 'pro' detailers) where not enough respect is given to raised body lines and sharp edges of the paint. Sure, properly taping up is time consuming and adds a bit of cost to the process, but I can assure you, it will only take you striking through an edge once, for you to appreciate that the effort spent on preventing such a situation is way less costly than fixing it once you've made a oopise.

Remember that when you get to a raised body line there are 2 factors at play which dramatically increase the probability of striking through.

Firstly, when the paint was sprayed gravity would have done its thing and the paint would be thinnest on the top of the ridge because, whilst still liquid, the paint would have flowed down off the ridge, so to start off with, paint on raised body lines is always thinner than anywhere else.

Secondly, if you run your pad over a raised body line, the polishing force is now no longer distributed over the entire face of the pad (which would have a certain area in contact with the paint), but instead is now concentrated into a very small area where the pad is making contact with the ridge.... this dramatically increases the effective cut and increase the chance of a strike through.

Also, don't for one minute think that its only rotaries that can do this.... it really didn't take much effort to intentionally strike through the edge of my practice bonnet using the Shield DA
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SayedMK1
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Re: Educate me about paint quality

Post by SayedMK1 »

lawrence wrote:
SayedMK1 wrote:What i meant was you'll have to asses the damage on the paintwork ,and use the best suited polish to correct the flaws or you could end up making it worse ,also depends what equipment you use or you could cause damage to the paintwork especially on the edges thats what i meant when i said "make sure you know what you are doing" . Ive seen your work Lawrence i dont have to teach you .. :thumbup: . Just pointing it out from my personal experience , I have ruined some good panels before . :lol:
Well yeah but this is not specific to Menzerna - it applies to ALL polishes, and that is why you will always here me harping on about the need to always use the least aggressive method to get the job done.

So for example if you were using Meguiars products you'd first do a test spot with something like M205 before jumping straight into a compound like M105 or M101. Likewise with Menzerna you'd test SF4000 before trying PF2300 before trying FG400 etc etc.

As for the edges, this is something that I see all too often (even in videos online of supposed 'pro' detailers) where not enough respect is given to raised body lines and sharp edges of the paint. Sure, properly taping up is time consuming and adds a bit of cost to the process, but I can assure you, it will only take you striking through an edge once, for you to appreciate that the effort spent on preventing such a situation is way less costly than fixing it once you've made a oopise.

Remember that when you get to a raised body line there are 2 factors at play which dramatically increase the probability of striking through.

Firstly, when the paint was sprayed gravity would have done its thing and the paint would be thinnest on the top of the ridge because, whilst still liquid, the paint would have flowed down off the ridge, so to start off with, paint on raised body lines is always thinner than anywhere else.

Secondly, if you run your pad over a raised body line, the polishing force is now no longer distributed over the entire face of the pad (which would have a certain area in contact with the paint), but instead is now concentrated into a very small area where the pad is making contact with the ridge.... this dramatically increases the effective cut and increase the chance of a strike through.

Also, don't for one minute think that its only rotaries that can do this.... it really didn't take much effort to intentionally strike through the edge of my practice bonnet using the Shield DA
Well said ! I agree with you on every point .Thanks for the useful tips :thumbup:
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