The detailing advice thread

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Rsi huntered
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Re: The detailing advice thread

Post by Rsi huntered »

lawrence wrote:
Dhir-DKR wrote:howzit guys,

I love washing and polishing my car but the only downside is the swirls, which are killing me.

I have adopted two bucket, wash mitt and mircofibre cloth processes for the last year.

I use meg deep crystal polish with meg carnuba wax. I also found a turtle wax polish for black paint, which i also tried.

I have even purchased scratch x 2.0 to remove marks and swirls.

My questions are:
- can swirls be taken out without a machine?
- If i had to purchase a machine, would the shield 1 from game suffice?
- Are the polishes and wax okay for my application? ( i did find the meg to shine a great deal more than the turtle wax)

Ideally i would like to learn how to detail on my own, so that my car can always be in pristine condition.
Thanks in advance :hi:
Someone who wants to learn to look after their car.... oh yeah :troll:

I see you are in Durban bud - why don't you come through and see me and I can try and give you some tips first hand - it will be a LOT easier than trying to type out all the advice... shoot me a PM and we can set something up if you are keen :thumbup:

Some quick things to think about though....

Are you pre-washing? In other words, are you trying to remove as much dirt as possible from the car BEFORE you touch it
I see you are using 2 buckets - are you using grit guards with them?
How big an area are you washing before rinsing out your mitt?
Do you wash any particular panels first or do you wash the car in a haphazard fashion?
What are you using for drying?
Do you make use of a drying aid or quick detailer during the drying process?

Yes swirls CAN be taken out by hand.... but it is HARD work :fear: A dual action machine is a lot more efficient at doing so though - but DO NOT look at a Shield ORBITAL polisher (the cheapy for like R300) - that will NOT fix swirls and will probably impart more into your paint.

For the most part, shine does NOT come from the wax, but instead from decontaminating and correcting the paint - wax should primarily be used for protection and if it visually enhances the paint, so be it...

:thumbup:
^^^^^^
I would honestly tell the person no cause if he tries to take it out by hand he will fair away from detailing for the rest of his life and go back to the back yard gangsters :lol: :lol: thats why i said no honestly :grin:

wished i could of spent a weekend when you detailing a car :grin: was suppose to meet you on the detailing day however we had a death in the family :cry: so couldnt make that one.
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Re: The detailing advice thread

Post by Rsi huntered »

Mbuzi wrote:
Rsi huntered wrote:Thanks Lawrence and Dietermk4.....

Will take a drive to Crazy Detailer.

and correct Lawrence i want to try and not make to much contact on the paint until i do the full detail :thumbup:

hahaha unfortunately we cannot use Hose pipe in the complex anymore :grin: now have to use bucket system.
I want to try out something this weekend. Get those 20L buckets with taps on the side, pour water and connect the HP there. I can imagine the water flowing from the tap, obviously without too much pressure vs normal tap. But I think this can work, besides, my HP is still under warranty in case something bad happens :fear:
Please film this and if you could put some dramatic back ground music :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
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Re: The detailing advice thread

Post by Rsi huntered »

Hi guys

Menzerna Pads: With SF4000

if I use the yellow pad for the SLIGHT cut will I still have to use the black pad there after or will it work its magic with that pad?
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Re: The detailing advice thread

Post by lawrence »

Rsi huntered wrote:Hi guys

Menzerna Pads: With SF4000

if I use the yellow pad for the SLIGHT cut will I still have to use the black pad there after or will it work its magic with that pad?
That short answer is it depends on the paint. Some paints react better to finishing with a softer pad, some with a harder pad. The only way to see if you are getting the results you want, is to conduct a test spot.

Start with the least aggressive.

SF4000 and the black pad. Make 8 overlapping passes using the cross hatch method, in a section about 2 pads wide x 3 deep. Wipe off the polish residue, inspect the paint. If you are happy, great.

If not, switch to the yellow pad. Repeat. If you happy, great

If not switch to the white pad

If none of that is working, try switching to PF2300 starting with the black pad.

Unless you are working on super soft paint, I cannot see the yellow pad with SF4000, worked properly, needing to be followed with SF4000 on a black pad. :thumbup:

Hell for most people, even FG400 on a white menzerna pad would finish down well enough.... but detailers aren't most people :lol:
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Re: The detailing advice thread

Post by Rsi huntered »

lawrence wrote:
Rsi huntered wrote:Hi guys

Menzerna Pads: With SF4000

if I use the yellow pad for the SLIGHT cut will I still have to use the black pad there after or will it work its magic with that pad?
That short answer is it depends on the paint. Some paints react better to finishing with a softer pad, some with a harder pad. The only way to see if you are getting the results you want, is to conduct a test spot.

Start with the least aggressive.

SF4000 and the black pad. Make 8 overlapping passes using the cross hatch method, in a section about 2 pads wide x 3 deep. Wipe off the polish residue, inspect the paint. If you are happy, great.

If not, switch to the yellow pad. Repeat. If you happy, great

If not switch to the white pad

If none of that is working, try switching to PF2300 starting with the black pad.

Unless you are working on super soft paint, I cannot see the yellow pad with SF4000, worked properly, needing to be followed with SF4000 on a black pad. :thumbup:

Hell for most people, even FG400 on a white menzerna pad would finish down well enough.... but detailers aren't most people :lol:
^^^^^ glasses required :lol: :lol:

Thanks Lawrence : its VW paint :oops: so i dont think the Black pad would do much :lol: with SF4000(but i will try it first :lol: )

Just inspected my paint work this weekend and fell in love cause i only saw a few SPOT that had swirls(and only one panel that the paint is not as smooth)but a buff will sort that out, so prefer not using anything aggressive on it thus SF4000 with yellow pad to brighten up the paint work.
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Re: The detailing advice thread

Post by zane.mk1 »

So after having my new car for a couple of months now, I thought it good to give her a nice detail.

Paint still looks really good, minimal swirls & RIDS.

So will basically be an enhancement & protection detail.

Just waiting on some goods from CD and will get cracking next week.
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Re: The detailing advice thread

Post by lawrence »

zane.mk1 wrote:So after having my new car for a couple of months now, I thought it good to give her a nice detail.

Paint still looks really good, minimal swirls & RIDS.

So will basically be an enhancement & protection detail.

Just waiting on some goods from CD and will get cracking next week.
:hurray:

Don't forget pics
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Re: The detailing advice thread

Post by Kiran »

HI guys, so I won this glossworx shampoo decided to try it out on my brothers Honda, pretty impressed with it, foams up quite nice smells great feels smooth on the paint when washing, imo feel its better than megs gold class shampoo

any one else got experiences with glossworx, was my first time using it

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Re: The detailing advice thread

Post by dynamic »

Hi gents,

What is the best to use when trying to remove some old grime in and around badges/lettering? Some sort of spray to loosen old dirt in hard to get to spots that wont harm the paint?
And could you point me to a few products for engine bay cleaning, without me having to hose down my coilpacks ;)


Thanks
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Re: The detailing advice thread

Post by lawrence »

Kiran wrote:HI guys, so I won this glossworx shampoo decided to try it out on my brothers Honda, pretty impressed with it, foams up quite nice smells great feels smooth on the paint when washing, imo feel its better than megs gold class shampoo

any one else got experiences with glossworx, was my first time using it

Image
I have tried the following Glossworx products:

Glass cleaner - Good
Wash n wax - Its ok, but these are not products I typically use
Tire Shine - for those who like their tires very shiny, this is a better alternative to something like Megs Endurance
Leather Cleaner - Its a good medium strength cleaner - prefer using APC
Leather Conditioner - As leather conditioners go its ok, but most modern leather does not require conditioners
Silky Shine Dressing - works ok, but prefer Carchem Tire and trim gel
dynamic wrote:Hi gents,

What is the best to use when trying to remove some old grime in and around badges/lettering? Some sort of spray to loosen old dirt in hard to get to spots that wont harm the paint?
And could you point me to a few products for engine bay cleaning, without me having to hose down my coilpacks ;)


Thanks
Unfortunately there is no simple spray on and wipe away type product that is going to undo years of built up grime in and around your badge. Instead it needs a multi-pronged attack.

First, when you are washing your car, spray the area liberally with some decent APC, let it sit, then agitate with a brush.

Then once dried, apply some Autofinesse Tripple quite liberally over the badge and into all the little corners

Let it sit a bit, then start cleaning out the badge using q-tips - I get these ones from Dischem which have a bamboo 'stick' instead of the normal plastic type ones, so it is much stiffer, and the tips themselves come with one 'sharp/pointed' end, making it easy to get into the corners.

Then wipe away with a clean MF towel

Repeat if necessary

Its a process and takes a bit of time, so don't rush it... :thumbup:
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Re: The detailing advice thread

Post by dynamic »

lawrence wrote:
dynamic wrote:Hi gents,

What is the best to use when trying to remove some old grime in and around badges/lettering? Some sort of spray to loosen old dirt in hard to get to spots that wont harm the paint?
And could you point me to a few products for engine bay cleaning, without me having to hose down my coilpacks ;)


Thanks
Unfortunately there is no simple spray on and wipe away type product that is going to undo years of built up grime in and around your badge. Instead it needs a multi-pronged attack.

First, when you are washing your car, spray the area liberally with some decent APC, let it sit, then agitate with a brush.

Then once dried, apply some Autofinesse Tripple quite liberally over the badge and into all the little corners

Let it sit a bit, then start cleaning out the badge using q-tips - I get these ones from Dischem which have a bamboo 'stick' instead of the normal plastic type ones, so it is much stiffer, and the tips themselves come with one 'sharp/pointed' end, making it easy to get into the corners.

Then wipe away with a clean MF towel

Repeat if necessary

Its a process and takes a bit of time, so don't rush it... :thumbup:
Thanks! I will give that a try
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Re: The detailing advice thread

Post by lawrence »

dynamic wrote: And could you point me to a few products for engine bay cleaning, without me having to hose down my coilpacks ;)Thanks
Sorry - missed that...

You can use APC (All Purpose cleaner) - just not something like Clean Green which will stain any aluminium etc in the bay - instead look at some Carchem APC from Crazy Detailer. Dilute it to the correct ratio (1:5 is a good starting point for a dirt engine bay). Then you will need a couple of MF towels and a few brushes.

Spray the APC into your MF towel or brush using a foaming trigger head (you can get the bottles from Crazy Detailer)
Wipe/brush a small section clean
Use a clean damp MF to wipe away the foam before it settles back onto the surface you are cleaning
Dress the engine bay afterwards
Done
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Re: The detailing advice thread

Post by dynamic »

lawrence wrote:
dynamic wrote: And could you point me to a few products for engine bay cleaning, without me having to hose down my coilpacks ;)Thanks
Sorry - missed that...

You can use APC (All Purpose cleaner) - just not something like Clean Green which will stain any aluminium etc in the bay - instead look at some Carchem APC from Crazy Detailer. Dilute it to the correct ratio (1:5 is a good starting point for a dirt engine bay). Then you will need a couple of MF towels and a few brushes.

Spray the APC into your MF towel or brush using a foaming trigger head (you can get the bottles from Crazy Detailer)
Wipe/brush a small section clean
Use a clean damp MF to wipe away the foam before it settles back onto the surface you are cleaning
Dress the engine bay afterwards
Done
:hurray: Thanks
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Re: The detailing advice thread

Post by Mbuzi »

dynamic wrote:
lawrence wrote:
dynamic wrote: And could you point me to a few products for engine bay cleaning, without me having to hose down my coilpacks ;)Thanks
Sorry - missed that...

You can use APC (All Purpose cleaner) - just not something like Clean Green which will stain any aluminium etc in the bay - instead look at some Carchem APC from Crazy Detailer. Dilute it to the correct ratio (1:5 is a good starting point for a dirt engine bay). Then you will need a couple of MF towels and a few brushes.

Spray the APC into your MF towel or brush using a foaming trigger head (you can get the bottles from Crazy Detailer)
Wipe/brush a small section clean
Use a clean damp MF to wipe away the foam before it settles back onto the surface you are cleaning
Dress the engine bay afterwards
Done

:hurray: Thanks

Remember to cover any electrical components and/or lose wires :hurray:
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Re: The detailing advice thread

Post by amstel18 »

dynamic wrote:
lawrence wrote:
dynamic wrote: And could you point me to a few products for engine bay cleaning, without me having to hose down my coilpacks ;)Thanks
Sorry - missed that...

You can use APC (All Purpose cleaner) - just not something like Clean Green which will stain any aluminium etc in the bay - instead look at some Carchem APC from Crazy Detailer. Dilute it to the correct ratio (1:5 is a good starting point for a dirt engine bay). Then you will need a couple of MF towels and a few brushes.

Spray the APC into your MF towel or brush using a foaming trigger head (you can get the bottles from Crazy Detailer)
Wipe/brush a small section clean
Use a clean damp MF to wipe away the foam before it settles back onto the surface you are cleaning
Dress the engine bay afterwards
Done
:hurray: Thanks
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Re: The detailing advice thread

Post by NHB_R »

Question
Can i buff polish/wax off using the shield da polish machine?
Or only by hand?
If it can be done by machine too, what pads should be used?
Thanks


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Re: The detailing advice thread

Post by Rsi huntered »

NHB_R wrote:Question
Can i buff polish/wax off using the shield da polish machine?
Or only by hand?
If it can be done by machine too, what pads should be used?
Thanks


Sent from my  iPhone
you can buff by hand however a clean proper fibre cloth must be used to take out the residue..... i prefer polishing by machine and taking off by hand.

all the above will boil down to what you actually want to accomplish......

what exactly are you trying to do?
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Re: The detailing advice thread

Post by Rsi huntered »

Hi Guys,

can anyone advise on the CharChem Revolt?

I detailed my car last week and had an issue with the Carchem Revolt(not sure if this was an issue or just the application process i did)

i sprayed the Carchem Revolt on my car and noticed it was drying very quick on the paint and rims (has anyone had this experience?)

day conditions were :
Hot, Sliiigggght breeze and i did not use the revolt under the carport ..... (no direct sun light on the car, as it was in the shade)

reason why im asking is that i dont think the Revolt had enough time to work properly ( or does the Carchem one work faster than others?)
Last edited by Rsi huntered on Mon Jan 11, 2016 10:30 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: The detailing advice thread

Post by Deranged_9n3 »

Rsi huntered wrote:Hi Guys,

can anyone advise on the CharChem Revolt?

I detailed my car last week and had an issue with the Carchem Revolt(not sure if this was an issue or just the application process i did)

i sprayed the Carchem Revolt on my car and noticed it was drying very quick on the paint and rims (has anyone had this experience?)

day conditions were :
Hot, Sliiigggght breeze and i did not use the revolt under the carport ..... (no direct sun light on the car, as it was in the shade)
Could be caused bythe breeze .... Was the surface hot/cold before aplication ?
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Re: The detailing advice thread

Post by Rsi huntered »

Deranged_9n3 wrote:
Rsi huntered wrote:Hi Guys,

can anyone advise on the CharChem Revolt?

I detailed my car last week and had an issue with the Carchem Revolt(not sure if this was an issue or just the application process i did)

i sprayed the Carchem Revolt on my car and noticed it was drying very quick on the paint and rims (has anyone had this experience?)

day conditions were :
Hot, Sliiigggght breeze and i did not use the revolt under the carport ..... (no direct sun light on the car, as it was in the shade)
Could be caused bythe breeze .... Was the surface hot/cold before aplication ?
paint surface was cold as i rinsed the car with cold water, wiped down and applied the Carchem Revolt
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Re: The detailing advice thread

Post by Rsi huntered »

Deranged_9n3 wrote:
Rsi huntered wrote:Hi Guys,

can anyone advise on the CharChem Revolt?

I detailed my car last week and had an issue with the Carchem Revolt(not sure if this was an issue or just the application process i did)

i sprayed the Carchem Revolt on my car and noticed it was drying very quick on the paint and rims (has anyone had this experience?)

day conditions were :
Hot, Sliiigggght breeze and i did not use the revolt under the carport ..... (no direct sun light on the car, as it was in the shade)
Could be caused bythe breeze .... Was the surface hot/cold before aplication ?
Paint was cold.... i rinsed the car with tap water and and wiped down and immediately used the Carchem Revolt
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Re: The detailing advice thread

Post by Rsi huntered »

this was how it was coming on the rim when i did it..... i took the photo and removed it immediately.....

Image


but the end product came out good :lol:

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Re: The detailing advice thread

Post by NHB_R »

Rsi huntered wrote:
NHB_R wrote:Question
Can i buff polish/wax off using the shield da polish machine?
Or only by hand?
If it can be done by machine too, what pads should be used?
Thanks


Sent from my  iPhone
you can buff by hand however a clean proper fibre cloth must be used to take out the residue..... i prefer polishing by machine and taking off by hand.

all the above will boil down to what you actually want to accomplish......

what exactly are you trying to do?

Thanks,
Trying to not get tired by doing it by hand, lol...and to make it quicker.
Currently buffing off by hand.
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Re: The detailing advice thread

Post by Mbuzi »

NHB_R wrote:
Rsi huntered wrote:
NHB_R wrote:Question
Can i buff polish/wax off using the shield da polish machine?
Or only by hand?
If it can be done by machine too, what pads should be used?
Thanks


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you can buff by hand however a clean proper fibre cloth must be used to take out the residue..... i prefer polishing by machine and taking off by hand.

all the above will boil down to what you actually want to accomplish......

what exactly are you trying to do?

Thanks,
Trying to not get tired by doing it by hand, lol...and to make it quicker.
Currently buffing off by hand.
What polish are using? Some polishes can only be applied per panel and buffed off immediately. If you follow manufacturers instructions, buffing alone doesn't make hands tire easily.


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Rsi huntered
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Re: The detailing advice thread

Post by Rsi huntered »

Mbuzi wrote:
NHB_R wrote:
Rsi huntered wrote:
NHB_R wrote:Question
Can i buff polish/wax off using the shield da polish machine?
Or only by hand?
If it can be done by machine too, what pads should be used?
Thanks


Sent from my  iPhone
you can buff by hand however a clean proper fibre cloth must be used to take out the residue..... i prefer polishing by machine and taking off by hand.

all the above will boil down to what you actually want to accomplish......

what exactly are you trying to do?

Thanks,
Trying to not get tired by doing it by hand, lol...and to make it quicker.
Currently buffing off by hand.
What polish are using? Some polishes can only be applied per panel and buffed off immediately. If you follow manufacturers instructions, buffing alone doesn't make hands tire easily.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
^^^^^^ this and .......

i think the only polish you will be able to use by had is an AIO product(which is not that hard just a little time), however this will NOT take out any of your swirls and depending on how bad your swirls are with distinguish what polish and pad combo to use...... :thumbup:

im gona give you an example of what i did last week :

1. washed
2. Iron out
3. rinsed out
4. dried
5. clayed
6. prepped car with tapping
7. checked paint work and how much swirls
8. since my car was brand new and minimal swirls ( only had little more swirls on b-pillars and a few portion of the body) i used a various combos on different parts of the paint ( since i was not aiming for 100% correction as its my daily i tried to preserve my clear coat)

my combo was , yellow pad and Menz PF2500, followed by black pad and SF4000 but majority of the car was used Menz SF4000 yellow and black pad to remove the sligggghtttt.... marring/swirls) then protected with a Menzerna Powerlock and left to cure about 18Hours
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