The 1.8T Dumpvalve Question. READ HERE BEFORE POSTING!!!!
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- panic-mechanic
- Panic's Place
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The 1.8T Dumpvalve Question. READ HERE BEFORE POSTING!!!!
Ok then once more. The management system on the polo gti, Golf 4 gti and all the ones using the same motor is a system that measures The volume/mass of air going throught the intake pipe - in other words it has a MAF (Mass airflow meter). It then adds fuel for that amount of air that has passed the intake. Now if you back off the throttle - the current BOV - Recirculating valve will pass the air from in front of the Throttle body - back to in front of the turbo to be recirculated because fuel has been added for it. The reason for the BOV/Recirculating valve is to drop the pressure between the turbo compressor side and the now closed Throttle body so it can increase turbo life and reduce wear. - Ok so far?
NOW - if you blow that air off to atmosphere - which non recirculating BOV does - which gives you the funky whoosh sound - then the management has added fuel for air which does not reach the motor - making it go rich for a moment. This constant rich for a moment situation causes small amounts of extra fuel to run down the sleeve everytime you lift your foot off the throttle after boost and in the long run it cuases bore wash - which means increased wear on your sleeves and shorter engine life. It also sometimes can be the cause of backfiring in those motors - which means unburnt fuel finding it's way into the exhaust and burning there - also not a healthy situation.
Ok so if you bought this car new and you do it early in it's life and you sell it by 100 000 km you might not notice this but at some point the next owner is going to have a kaput motor while the others are still going nicely.
Oh and if somebody tells you the lambda sensor will correct this - tell him to shove it up his arse - lambda sits in the exhaust and will see that rich spike by the time you have your foot on the throttle already again and well after the fuel has washed down the sleeve already - then it will go and try to make it leaner - so now you are under full power again and the management pulls back the fuelling making it lean for a moment - ALSO and even a worse thing. The raw fuel in the exhaust will also kill the catalytic converters in short itme if you care about such stuff.
But hey - it sounds tit
NOW - if you blow that air off to atmosphere - which non recirculating BOV does - which gives you the funky whoosh sound - then the management has added fuel for air which does not reach the motor - making it go rich for a moment. This constant rich for a moment situation causes small amounts of extra fuel to run down the sleeve everytime you lift your foot off the throttle after boost and in the long run it cuases bore wash - which means increased wear on your sleeves and shorter engine life. It also sometimes can be the cause of backfiring in those motors - which means unburnt fuel finding it's way into the exhaust and burning there - also not a healthy situation.
Ok so if you bought this car new and you do it early in it's life and you sell it by 100 000 km you might not notice this but at some point the next owner is going to have a kaput motor while the others are still going nicely.
Oh and if somebody tells you the lambda sensor will correct this - tell him to shove it up his arse - lambda sits in the exhaust and will see that rich spike by the time you have your foot on the throttle already again and well after the fuel has washed down the sleeve already - then it will go and try to make it leaner - so now you are under full power again and the management pulls back the fuelling making it lean for a moment - ALSO and even a worse thing. The raw fuel in the exhaust will also kill the catalytic converters in short itme if you care about such stuff.
But hey - it sounds tit
Stephan van Tonder - Jhb - Putfontein Benoni
'05 Audi A6 3.0L TDI Avant
'09 Touareg 3l TDI
'13 VW CC 2l tdi (repair project)
'05 Touareg v10
Perfect Power dealer. I do dyno tuning.
'05 Audi A6 3.0L TDI Avant
'09 Touareg 3l TDI
'13 VW CC 2l tdi (repair project)
'05 Touareg v10
Perfect Power dealer. I do dyno tuning.
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Erm,I don't get the above,so what you saying is that its a resounding no?
But I really really want that psssshhht pshhhht wooosssh sound,it makes me the envy of everyone and makes me feel like I have a bigger d@ck
Maybe if I fit two in,the problems or issues experienced will go away
But I really really want that psssshhht pshhhht wooosssh sound,it makes me the envy of everyone and makes me feel like I have a bigger d@ck
Maybe if I fit two in,the problems or issues experienced will go away
Ex '02 Citi.Com 20VT K04
Ex '12 GTI 6 Candy White,Manual,Revo STG 2, 250whp 460nm KAR pump fuel only.
'80 MK1 L 2Dr 8V Throttles
'92 CTI 16VT 240whp @ Panic 0.3 bars boost.
'12 GTI 6 Candy White DSG 14.4 @ 160km/h Tarlton Stock Std.
Zubair Aka Boost Junkie
ZUB-AIR-RESEARCH
Boost Developments
Ex '12 GTI 6 Candy White,Manual,Revo STG 2, 250whp 460nm KAR pump fuel only.
'80 MK1 L 2Dr 8V Throttles
'92 CTI 16VT 240whp @ Panic 0.3 bars boost.
'12 GTI 6 Candy White DSG 14.4 @ 160km/h Tarlton Stock Std.
Zubair Aka Boost Junkie
ZUB-AIR-RESEARCH
Boost Developments
- panic-mechanic
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It kind of means that if you care for your car don't fit it. If you don't give a rat's arse then go right ahead and fit it.
Stephan van Tonder - Jhb - Putfontein Benoni
'05 Audi A6 3.0L TDI Avant
'09 Touareg 3l TDI
'13 VW CC 2l tdi (repair project)
'05 Touareg v10
Perfect Power dealer. I do dyno tuning.
'05 Audi A6 3.0L TDI Avant
'09 Touareg 3l TDI
'13 VW CC 2l tdi (repair project)
'05 Touareg v10
Perfect Power dealer. I do dyno tuning.
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@panic:
i wouldn't have any interest in fitting a non-recirculating, but i'm curious about one thing...
shane at topsport had a golf 2 VR6 turbo (on factory injection iirc) when his non-recirculating dump valve opened the ecu would go mental and the car would cut out, to bypass this issue he fitted an auxilary air valve from a k-jet motor - and it worked.
willie duplooy had the same issue, also on a golf2 VR6 turbo and fitted the idling stabilizer from the 2E to allow for air to bypass when the throttle was closed
i'm not saying it's a fix - i'd rather leave well alone, but curious as to your opinion?
i wouldn't have any interest in fitting a non-recirculating, but i'm curious about one thing...
shane at topsport had a golf 2 VR6 turbo (on factory injection iirc) when his non-recirculating dump valve opened the ecu would go mental and the car would cut out, to bypass this issue he fitted an auxilary air valve from a k-jet motor - and it worked.
willie duplooy had the same issue, also on a golf2 VR6 turbo and fitted the idling stabilizer from the 2E to allow for air to bypass when the throttle was closed
i'm not saying it's a fix - i'd rather leave well alone, but curious as to your opinion?
- pluto
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Re: The 1.8T Dumpvalve Question. READ HERE BEFORE POSTING!!!
Cheers for that Panic , finally !panic-mechanic wrote:Ok then once more. The management system on the polo gti, Golf 4 gti and all the ones using the same motor is a system that measures The volume/mass of air going throught the intake pipe - in other words it has a MAF (Mass airflow meter). It then adds fuel for that amount of air that has passed the intake. Now if you back off the throttle - the current BOV - Recirculating valve will pass the air from in front of the Throttle body - back to in front of the turbo to be recirculated because fuel has been added for it. The reason for the BOV/Recirculating valve is to drop the pressure between the turbo compressor side and the now closed Throttle body so it can increase turbo life and reduce wear. - Ok so far?
NOW - if you blow that air off to atmosphere - which non recirculating BOV does - which gives you the funky whoosh sound - then the management has added fuel for air which does not reach the motor - making it go rich for a moment. This constant rich for a moment situation causes small amounts of extra fuel to run down the sleeve everytime you lift your foot off the throttle after boost and in the long run it cuases bore wash - which means increased wear on your sleeves and shorter engine life. It also sometimes can be the cause of backfiring in those motors - which means unburnt fuel finding it's way into the exhaust and burning there - also not a healthy situation.
Ok so if you bought this car new and you do it early in it's life and you sell it by 100 000 km you might not notice this but at some point the next owner is going to have a kaput motor while the others are still going nicely.
Oh and if somebody tells you the lambda sensor will correct this - tell him to shove it up his arse - lambda sits in the exhaust and will see that rich spike by the time you have your foot on the throttle already again and well after the fuel has washed down the sleeve already - then it will go and try to make it leaner - so now you are under full power again and the management pulls back the fuelling making it lean for a moment - ALSO and even a worse thing. The raw fuel in the exhaust will also kill the catalytic converters in short itme if you care about such stuff.
But hey - it sounds tit
Do you agree that it helps with the spool up as well so that lag is kept to a minimal ...
Shiver me Wastegates
Frieling Racing Chip tuning
Yashin@frc.co.za
082 805 9060
2013 TT-RS S Tronic
MK1 20VT BAM (Motronic ME 7.5 DBW)
Frieling Racing Chip tuning
Yashin@frc.co.za
082 805 9060
2013 TT-RS S Tronic
MK1 20VT BAM (Motronic ME 7.5 DBW)
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Now it all makes sense!
Shot PM
Shot PM
Current:
Mk4 GTI
---63mm ss exhaust and DP (decat)
EX's:
MK1 2door
---2.0 8V (2E)---736 kg's---102.6bhp atw's(K.A.R.)
94 chico 1300
89 1600 citi sport-slightly modded.
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not particularly the info i really wanted to hear, as i was hoping there was a way of showing off the tubo on this motor, but know i know why you cant just slap an atmospheric DV on these motor. Thank PM, you certainly are a pearl of wisdom.
Current: `18 Tiguan TSI 4motion
x: LSG MK7 GTI DSG
x: Audi A4 B7 1.8T
X:'08 Golf 5 GTI - White Rush
'05 Polo 1.9 TDI Sportline - Blue Boost
'05 Velociti 1.4i
There is a replacement for displacement, its called compressed air
x: LSG MK7 GTI DSG
x: Audi A4 B7 1.8T
X:'08 Golf 5 GTI - White Rush
'05 Polo 1.9 TDI Sportline - Blue Boost
'05 Velociti 1.4i
There is a replacement for displacement, its called compressed air
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Re: The 1.8T Dumpvalve Question. READ HERE BEFORE POSTING!!!
pluto wrote:Cheers for that Panic , finally !panic-mechanic wrote:Ok then once more. The management system on the polo gti, Golf 4 gti and all the ones using the same motor is a system that measures The volume/mass of air going throught the intake pipe - in other words it has a MAF (Mass airflow meter). It then adds fuel for that amount of air that has passed the intake. Now if you back off the throttle - the current BOV - Recirculating valve will pass the air from in front of the Throttle body - back to in front of the turbo to be recirculated because fuel has been added for it. The reason for the BOV/Recirculating valve is to drop the pressure between the turbo compressor side and the now closed Throttle body so it can increase turbo life and reduce wear. - Ok so far?
NOW - if you blow that air off to atmosphere - which non recirculating BOV does - which gives you the funky whoosh sound - then the management has added fuel for air which does not reach the motor - making it go rich for a moment. This constant rich for a moment situation causes small amounts of extra fuel to run down the sleeve everytime you lift your foot off the throttle after boost and in the long run it cuases bore wash - which means increased wear on your sleeves and shorter engine life. It also sometimes can be the cause of backfiring in those motors - which means unburnt fuel finding it's way into the exhaust and burning there - also not a healthy situation.
Ok so if you bought this car new and you do it early in it's life and you sell it by 100 000 km you might not notice this but at some point the next owner is going to have a kaput motor while the others are still going nicely.
Oh and if somebody tells you the lambda sensor will correct this - tell him to shove it up his arse - lambda sits in the exhaust and will see that rich spike by the time you have your foot on the throttle already again and well after the fuel has washed down the sleeve already - then it will go and try to make it leaner - so now you are under full power again and the management pulls back the fuelling making it lean for a moment - ALSO and even a worse thing. The raw fuel in the exhaust will also kill the catalytic converters in short itme if you care about such stuff.
But hey - it sounds tit
Do you agree that it helps with the spool up as well so that lag is kept to a minimal ...
The dv for the 1.8t motor is a vacume opperated valve that will be
open under normal idel conditions or full closed throttle i.e when gear chainge and decellaration.
The air-mass meter will register the bypassed air on idel as this is when
the dv is open.Yes the dv is open when the gears are chainged etc but for brief moment in time so this will not effect the air-mass.The same goes for decleration as this is when the ecu shuts off the injectors and they don't inject any fuel.[thats why fuel consumption on mfa drops to zero]
Genrally when the atmospheric valve is fitted to the 132 kw motor it will affect the idel as the car has added fetuares that the 110kw motor does not have.This can also have a effect on the running of the car as the air-mass has new learnt values and sometimes has a tendancy to get confused thus sending it into limp mode.With a chip this can be sorted out with the usual power gains.
The 110kw motor is not as sensitive as the 132kw motor.It can affect idel at times but i have not seen them go into limp mode etc.The mapping for these motors are diff to that of the 132kw.Yes once again a chip will sort out the small issue with the usual power gains.
This is not set in stone but more of a guide line.The cars do differ from each other and some will be affected others won't be affected.
There is no set rule or path in this matter for anyone to follow.
It always boils down to what does the customer want and what is his choice.
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The SIMPLE way to get the sound:
Run a Forge 007 recirculating DV. This does the exact same job as the Stock DV but it hold boost better (Especially chipped boost levels) and last longer.
Then you buy an aftermarket intake..CAI or P-Flow intake or the like. The "PSSH" sound will be heard as there is no Airbox to muffle the sound anymore.
Done. No fault codes, no overfuelling etc.
Run a Forge 007 recirculating DV. This does the exact same job as the Stock DV but it hold boost better (Especially chipped boost levels) and last longer.
Then you buy an aftermarket intake..CAI or P-Flow intake or the like. The "PSSH" sound will be heard as there is no Airbox to muffle the sound anymore.
Done. No fault codes, no overfuelling etc.
Stuart
2006 Jeep Wrangler "Sarge"
1966 Splitty.
2014 KTM 1190 Adventure
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2006 Jeep Wrangler "Sarge"
1966 Splitty.
2014 KTM 1190 Adventure
No Mk1 ;(
"We've all been raised on television to believe that one day we'd all be millionaires, and movie gods, and rock stars. But we won't. And we're slowly learning that fact. So we build VDubs son..."
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Forge splitter DV/BOB
What about the forge DV/BOV combo. Will that do the job to give u that sound and also to protect the engine?
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Re: Forge splitter DV/BOB
Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesnt..... Its weird.jayangel wrote:What about the forge DV/BOV combo. Will that do the job to give u that sound and also to protect the engine?
Stuart
2006 Jeep Wrangler "Sarge"
1966 Splitty.
2014 KTM 1190 Adventure
No Mk1 ;(
"We've all been raised on television to believe that one day we'd all be millionaires, and movie gods, and rock stars. But we won't. And we're slowly learning that fact. So we build VDubs son..."
"Owning a MK1 varies between having sex to getting hit in the balls. Usually several times in one day."
2006 Jeep Wrangler "Sarge"
1966 Splitty.
2014 KTM 1190 Adventure
No Mk1 ;(
"We've all been raised on television to believe that one day we'd all be millionaires, and movie gods, and rock stars. But we won't. And we're slowly learning that fact. So we build VDubs son..."
"Owning a MK1 varies between having sex to getting hit in the balls. Usually several times in one day."
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Re: The 1.8T Dumpvalve Question. READ HERE BEFORE POSTING!!!!
thats one question answered, now for another one... ive recently boght a 2001 gti 110kw. had it 3 weeks now, and ive done alot of research on the agu motor.
2001 MK4 GTi. Stock.
For now...
For now...
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Re: The 1.8T Dumpvalve Question. READ HERE BEFORE POSTING!!!!
Daster!Daster! wrote:thats one question answered, now for another one... ive recently boght a 2001 gti 110kw. had it 3 weeks now, and ive done alot of research on the agu motor.
Please don't hijack this post, start another one with your question...
Thanks
Nic
Current Garage:
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Roxy: 2015 VW Golf R
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Daily Drive: 2014 VW Touareg 3.0 V6 TDi R-Line
Project Fes: 1982 VW Golf GLS 1.5
Project FeO: 1966 VW Type 2 Transporter Kombi Split Window
Previous Garage:
Roxy: 2015 VW Golf R
Vagon: 2005 Audi B6 A4 1.8T (140kw) Avant
Project XXXX: 1967 VW Type 3 Variant (Squareback)
Project Betty: 2005 Polo 1.9 TDI (PD130) Sportline
Weekend Warrior: 1993 Volkswagen Caddy 2.0 16v ABF on ITB's
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Re: The 1.8T Dumpvalve Question. READ HERE BEFORE POSTING!!!!
Guys,
From experience I can tell you that short cuts to very expensive machinary in the short term lead to very expensive lessons in the long term.
Tuners will tell you may things with regards to factory turbo cars, however the better ones will advise against short cuts that lead to little or no power gains. The question that you ask has been asked by many G4 GTi and Audi S3 owners and the answer is that if you want to make an adjustment by adding on a BOV or induction kit what are the benefits, the truth is that value for moneywise you may actually lose power or do some irreparable damage to your precious toy.
Topsport Developments has developed a kit for the G4 GTi and they have one driving around that makes a very reliable 170kw (at the wheels), in the short term the cost of the upgrade may seem like a lot however in the long term the grin factor is second to none (gets better with NOS).
Give them a call to see what they have. 011 397 46 48
"Its not the big that eat the small, its the FAST that eat the slow"
From experience I can tell you that short cuts to very expensive machinary in the short term lead to very expensive lessons in the long term.
Tuners will tell you may things with regards to factory turbo cars, however the better ones will advise against short cuts that lead to little or no power gains. The question that you ask has been asked by many G4 GTi and Audi S3 owners and the answer is that if you want to make an adjustment by adding on a BOV or induction kit what are the benefits, the truth is that value for moneywise you may actually lose power or do some irreparable damage to your precious toy.
Topsport Developments has developed a kit for the G4 GTi and they have one driving around that makes a very reliable 170kw (at the wheels), in the short term the cost of the upgrade may seem like a lot however in the long term the grin factor is second to none (gets better with NOS).
Give them a call to see what they have. 011 397 46 48
"Its not the big that eat the small, its the FAST that eat the slow"
In my world it's not the BIG that eat the SMALL, it's the FAST that eat the SLOW!!!!!
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Re: The 1.8T Dumpvalve Question. READ HERE BEFORE POSTING!!!!
ok i had a uno turbo some time back and it also had a recurculating DV, but then i added a normal DV to the intake pipe and put a "T" piece from the vacum of the intake and hooked up both the DV and it worked fine......no prob so i will be getting my MK4 GTI soon and will see if the same can be done andbody tried this......
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Re: The 1.8T Dumpvalve Question. READ HERE BEFORE POSTING!!!!
I'm looking at trying the Forge Splitter DV.
Been reading reviews etc from the UK and guys are well impressed.
Backed up with logs etc and all seems good:)
Been reading reviews etc from the UK and guys are well impressed.
Backed up with logs etc and all seems good:)
http://www.bunkerracing.co.za
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Re: The 1.8T Dumpvalve Question. READ HERE BEFORE POSTING!!!!
Split R works good on some cars, ( i have no problem with mine ) but some ain't liking it, especially the drive by wire G4 and A3's etc etc they keep on getting limp, if u do a search u will see that the AGU engine codes (drive by cable) are the ones that normaly dont have a prob.
My 2c
My 2c
-8L A3 1.8T FRC
-B7 A4 2.0T FRC
-B7 A4 2.0T FRC
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Re: The 1.8T Dumpvalve Question. READ HERE BEFORE POSTING!!!!
So I got AUM engine, reckon it won't dig it so much?
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Re: The 1.8T Dumpvalve Question. READ HERE BEFORE POSTING!!!!
The chance's are good that it wont like it, but u will never know if u don't try , there are some success story's of drive by wire cars, but more of them don't like it. I took a chance because my DV was on its way out, and if the Forge valve did not work the Split way, i could just put it to full divert. But mine work's fine in split modeBos wrote:So I got AUM engine, reckon it won't dig it so much?
-8L A3 1.8T FRC
-B7 A4 2.0T FRC
-B7 A4 2.0T FRC
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Re: The 1.8T Dumpvalve Question. READ HERE BEFORE POSTING!!!!
Right, will see when it comes time to purchurize such a part
Thanks
Thanks
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Re: The 1.8T Dumpvalve Question. READ HERE BEFORE POSTING!!!!
Excuse my ignorance on the subject BUT I need a question answered that relates to this topic.
I am in the process of turbo charging the 2.0 running factory management with a dastek piggy back so it will still have the MAF and I will e using a recirculating DV. Am I correct if I install the DV between the IC and TB and recirc it back to the intake BETWEEN the MAF and Turbo?
and then where can I get a good quality recirculating DV that will do boot levels of 0.6 - 0.9 bar ?
I am in the process of turbo charging the 2.0 running factory management with a dastek piggy back so it will still have the MAF and I will e using a recirculating DV. Am I correct if I install the DV between the IC and TB and recirc it back to the intake BETWEEN the MAF and Turbo?
and then where can I get a good quality recirculating DV that will do boot levels of 0.6 - 0.9 bar ?
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Re: The 1.8T Dumpvalve Question. READ HERE BEFORE POSTING!!!!
OK so i have another question
i have a GTI 110Kw
i am planning the following
Bigger turbo (T3/T4) with manifold
From Mount Intercooler
63mm exhaust
Going to be running a Piggy back Chip ( not sure which one yet)
This will take away the fueling and timing function from the ecu
In this case it would be OK to fit a BOV ?
i have a GTI 110Kw
i am planning the following
Bigger turbo (T3/T4) with manifold
From Mount Intercooler
63mm exhaust
Going to be running a Piggy back Chip ( not sure which one yet)
This will take away the fueling and timing function from the ecu
In this case it would be OK to fit a BOV ?
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- Car Model: A3 8L 1.8T, A4 B7 2.0T
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- Location: Centurion
Re: The 1.8T Dumpvalve Question. READ HERE BEFORE POSTING!!!!
Yup, ones your airmass is out of the equation its all good to go ....
-8L A3 1.8T FRC
-B7 A4 2.0T FRC
-B7 A4 2.0T FRC
- Abnormal
- Lieutenant-Colonel
- Posts: 4371
- Registered for: 20 years
- Membership No: 848
- Location: JHB
Re: The 1.8T Dumpvalve Question. READ HERE BEFORE POSTING!!!!
I dont think a piggy back would remove the airmass meter from the eqution. My understanding is that the piggy back mearly receives input from the ecu and then changes the output based on the programming. So the ECU would still be taking a reading from the airmass meter
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