GT Series turbos...All you need to know.

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Rabbit222
VAG Cafe
Posts: 19036
Registered for: 19 years 2 months
Car Make: Audi
Car Model: RS3
Membership No: 675
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GT Series turbos...All you need to know.

Post by Rabbit222 »

Hi Guys,

This info was forwarded by Zubair. There has been apparently quite a lot of interest in the GT turbo and he has requested I put all this info into this thread. Thanks Zubs.

DOCUMENT# INS -PRO-016-A
ADVANCED TUNING PRODUCTS, INC Page 1 of 14


Procedure: Installation of the ATP Eliminator Series turbo hardware kit for the Transverse Mounted FWD (Front Wheel Drive) 1.8T VW/Audi/Seat Models
Golf/Jetta/Beetle/TT/Leon etc. Years 1998 through 2005.
Parts Checklist (Bill Of Materials):

1. Turbocharger unit with integral waste gate - Eliminator Series (GT2X, GTRS/GT2871R)
2. Coolant Feed Line assembly (GTRS/GT2871R) / Coolant bypass hose (GT2X)
3. Oil Feed Line
4. Gasket, nuts, and studs (Turbo to Downpipe)
5. Coolant Return Line assembly (Only on GTRS/GT2871R)
6. Compressor outlet connection pieces (To stock intercooler hose)
7. 8mm Metric Bolt, to replace lower manifold to cylinder head stud (Only on GTRS/GT2871R)
8. Oil feed adapter (at oil filter housing)
9. Spacer kit for shifter bracket
10. Oil return gasket and bolt/nuts/studs
11. Manifold to turbo bolts/gaskets and gasket
12. Compressor inlet adapter kit (to use with stock inlet hose)

Optional upgrade equipment:
1. Large diameter turbo inlet hard pipe kit (Required for over 200WHP).
2. 3” Stainless Downpipe.
3. Larger injectors and ECU programming (fueling kit)

Some Notes regarding this turbo application:
The “Eliminator” series of bolt-on turbochargers has been designed to be both installation friendly and user friendly. The most basic use of this kit is to replace a defective K03 or K04 turbo without any modifications to the main components in the engine bay. The following procedure outlines the steps for installing the base turbo hardware kit which allows you to
keep all stock supporting components. With the basic install, all emissions related components are retained. Refer to the supplementary documents to install the optional upgraded inlet pipe, racing test pipe, injectors, and ECU chip. Make no mistake though, this turbo is capable of 300+ HP in its stealth-like form and can blend into the engine bay a stocker.

Installation Tip #1 – Using a vehicle lift, securely place vehicle on lift so that bottom of engine components are accessible. In absence of a vehicle lift, use tall ramps, if possible. If jacks
stands are to be used, make sure vehicle is securely planted before getting under the vehicle.

1. Drain fluids (both coolant and oil):
While it’s not completely necessary to do so, draining both fluids is highly recommended.
During turbo removal, since both oil and coolant fittings have to be disconnected, there is a
high chance of oil coolant mixing. In addition, the new turbo will like to see fresh fluids
running through its veins.

1. Using a 19mm wrench, undo oil drain nut on oil pan and allow oil to drain completely.

2. Disconnect the coolant hose leading from turbo to back of the engine block and allow coolant to drain completely.

2. Begin basic removal:
1. Using flathead screwdriver, remove the engine cover from top of valve cover on engine.
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2. Begin removing components connected to the stock compressor outlet pipe (stainlesspipe).
3. Unscrew hose clamp holding diverter valve/BOV to stainless pipe.
4. Disconnect N75 signal hose (small black hose) from stainless pipe.
5. Unscrew two brackets holding stainless pipe to engine (10mm bolt head)
6. Remove large rubber elbow from stainless pipe and turbo connections
7. With all components unbolted, pipe should be free to pull aside (this allows easy access to pull and replace the turbo).
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8. Prepare all turbo exhaust parts for removal.
Installation Tip #2 – Using a spray on penetrating oil (such as liquid wrench lubricant), saturate
all the exhaust nuts/bolts (turbo to manifold & turbo to down pipe) and allow it to sit. This will
allow any rusted hardware to come loose without breaking. 5 minutes of preparation can save a
lot of hours in nut/bolt extracting!
9. Remove the Nuts (17mm) holding downpipe to the turbo.
10. Remove the 2 (5mm) allen head bolts holding the oil return line to the stock turbo.
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11. Unbolt the coolant lines from the turbo and unbolt coolant line at the back of the engine
block. Note: It is necessary to unbolt the turbo to manifold bolts to allow the turbo to sit
low enough to access the allen bolt holding the oil/coolant lines to the stock turbo
12. Install the coolant return hose assembly as shown (longer 24” hoses assembly) to back
of engine block (replacing stock hose).
Installation Tip #3 – Notice the connection between aluminum machine banjo and 45 degree fitting is ¼” NPT (pipe thread) which requires the use of Teflon tape or thread sealant.
a. Install other end to hose on side of engine if GT2X to terminate the coolant
bypass hose assembly.
b. If GTRS or GT2871R, Install the shorter 12” coolant hose to back of engine block
and install the other end of this hose to coolant port on the eliminator turbo(facing engine block) using same banjo assembly once the turbo is on.
c. If GTRS or GT2871R, Install the longer 24” coolant hose to the back port on the eliminator turbo (facing firewall) and run that hose into the side of the engine as shown above.
d. Either GTRS/GT2871R or GT2X, when running into the coolant feed hose on the side of the engine as shown above, cut away the original hose and slip on barb terminator provided.
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13. Bolt on the new eliminator turbo as shown using new bolts, gaskets, and washers provided.
Note: GTRS/GT2871R Requires the removal of the bottom left manifold to head exhaust stud and replacing it with the (1) single allen bolt provided.
To remove the stud, remove the nut and then grab the stud with a larger pair of pliers and unscrew until removed.
[If installing a high flow manifold, please swap out the new manifold prior to bolting on the new eliminator turbo]
14. Grab black coolant pipe firmly and pull up and bend upwards 1” and towards the compressor outlet nozzle leaving enough clearance only for the outlet hose.
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15. Notice new position of black coolant pipe (sits 1” higher and further left closer to top of compressor housing on new turbo)
16. Oil feed line install.
a. Screw oil 1.8T oil feed fitting into original feed source on oil filter housing.
b. Attach 90 degree end of the oil feed line into end of the fitting.
c. Attach straight end of oil feed line straight into the turbo 90 degree(already attached to turbo)
DOCUMENT# INS -PRO-016-A
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17. Use compressor outlet pieces provided to construct the outlet adapter (to stock
compressor outlet hose).
18. Slide pieces together: 2” stainless coupler to stock 90 degree rubber and connect other end of 2” stainless coupler to newly cut short elbow (other end into GT2X turbo). Clamp down all hoses with clamps provided.
19. Reinstall all hose connections and brackets from stainless pressure pipe to engine:
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20. Use the Shifter Bracket Spacer Kit to Space bracket 1” higher as shown above.
21. Proper steps for shifter cable unbolting and length adjustment:
a. Carefully unclip the retainer clips to release the (2) cable ends.
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b. Remount the shifter bracket onto the top of the tranny using the (3) spacers and longer bolts as shown:
c. Once the shifter bracket is remounted with the spacers, re-install the shifter cable ends into the shifter mechanism and re-install the retaining clips.
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Important Notes for adjusting cable length if necessary to compensate for the spacer installation:
1. Make sure shifter is in Neutral by making sure white tab is on the center as shown:
2. When slipping the cable end back on to the shift level, make sure that the lever doesn’t get pulled in either direction due to altered cable length.
i. If too short and lever appears pulled slightly , then lengthen the
cable end slightly to retain 100% neutral once cable end slips on.
ii. If too long and lever appears to be pushed forward slightly, shorten
the cable end slightly to retain 100% neutral once cable end slips
on.
3. To adjust the cable end length, refer to diagram below.
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22. Reinstall the top of oil return line into the bottom of the new turbo.
23. If you have an optional “Large Bore Inlet Pipe for the Eliminator series” ready, follow the
separate instructions and install it now, or install the Factory Stock Inlet Hose using the following adapter piece provided:
a. Connect first (3) 90 degree elbows as shown (shorten leg at turbo):
DOCUMENT# INS -PRO-016-A
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b. Back to the top of the engine bay, install the 2” stainless coupler to end of 90
degree soft elbow from below.
c. Install 2.25” to 2” transition hose to stainless coupler.
24. With airbox and MAF pipe in original location, run the stock inlet hose into new connection as show:
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25. Re-install downpipe onto turbo with new studs and gaskets provided.
Note: Installation of eliminator hardware is complete. Proceed to filling fluids and follow startup procedure carefully.
Pre - Startup Process
1. Fill fluids (both coolant and oil):
1. Make sure oil drain plug has been re-installed on oil pan.
2. Fill engine with new oil to proper level. Oil type and capacity can be found in the car owner’s manual.
3. Fill coolant system with factory specified coolant type.
2. Circulate the oil through the turbo WITHOUT starting the engine!
Option #1: Remove the ECU from the car.
Option #2: Disconnect all the injector connectors from the injectors and disconnect all the connectors from the coil packs.
1. Once one of the above options has been met, proceed to crank the engine (as though trying to start it) for 10 seconds at a time for 3 minutes.
2. If ECU was previously removed, reinstall now. Re-install injector connectors and coil pack connectors and engine will start.
3. Allow engine to idle and observe for leaks. If any leaks are detected, shut down the car and fix. Repeat steps 1 through 3 as necessary.
4. Once there are no leaks found, allow engine to idle for 15 to 20 minutes for proper warmup.
Note: During warm up idle, all the oil residue from installation will burn off. During this time, there will be light smoking due to the burn off. If there is heavy, cloudy white smoke or any foreign mechanical sounds observed, shut the car down and contact your nearest dealer.
3. Test Driving:
1. An upgraded turbo vehicle should never be driven without both a boost gauge and an air
fuel monitoring device. If you do not have both installed, do not drive the car!
2. Install any supporting programming and/or injectors as necessary and follow the software
manufacturer’s specifications during the drive.
3. During the driving, monitor that boost levels never exceed the software provider’s limits
and air/fuel ratio does not go lean. Anything over 12:1 A/F under wide open throttle is considered lean.

Happy Motoring!
Last edited by Rabbit222 on Mon Jan 22, 2007 1:35 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Rabbit222
VAG Cafe
Posts: 19036
Registered for: 19 years 2 months
Car Make: Audi
Car Model: RS3
Membership No: 675
Location: Centurion
Contact:

Post by Rabbit222 »

"Upgrading to a bigger turbo has never been easier"
Enter the “K03/K04” Eliminators
The eliminator product is very easy and straight forward to use. It is basically a higher flowing, direct replacement turbo that goes right into the stock turbo location. You do not have to change the turbo system around. Basically, you just "eliminate" the K03 or K04 that you have and "bolt-on" the new Garrett GT based unit. We've designed the higher flowing Garrett unit to sit in the original location to achieve a subtle visual effect. We wanted the Garrett GT turbo to look OEM once it's integrated into the turbo engine bay. It uses most of the OEM gaskets and mounting points. This means the flange that mounts the turbo to the manifold is stock appearing and the flange that mount to the downpipe is the same as stock. So, you don't have to change out your exhaust manifold or downpipe if you do not want to. If you already spent $1000 on company X's 3" downpipe for your stock turbo, you can still keep it and it will fit with your new turbo. At least now, the new turbo will let you take full advantage of it. Your stock or custom front mounted intercooler will still work with the new turbo, without any "reconfiguration" of the piping work.
Each Eliminator hardware package consists of:
• Garrett GT Turbo of choice (within the offered range)
• ATP proprietary cast and machined exhaust housing to fit each application
• Appropriately matched wastegate and mounting bracket
• All necessary oil/coolant lines and fittings to make the installation easy
• All new OEM or better grade gaskets and fasteners for installation
• All hardware prepped for installation along with an installation manual
Once the Eliminator hardware is installed, you will have a foundation for a high HP powerplant. The Eliminator turbo is capable flowing up to 200% more air than the stock turbo. This means, you can now run higher boost levels to achieve much higher HP and Torque without running out of air. Most stock K03 turbos are rated at 200HP max and will usually overspin and "blow up" when taken beyond that point. The K04 unit flows more than the K03, but is only rated at 240HP and will encounter reliability issues above that HP range. The Garrett GT based Eliminators are rated anywhere between 260HP (on the small, quick spooling end), all the way to 400HP (on the larger, I want to brag about end). For customers who want to take full advantage of the strength and power dynamics of the little 1.8T, these new turbos can unleash the beast from within the engine. The uniquely sturdy iron block coupled with the high flowing 20V cylinder head makes the 1.8T a serious hotrod when mated with the right turbocharger.
What are the benefits of going with the "Eliminators" over conventional "Turbo Kits"?
1. Ease of installation - By taking advantage of the existing engine layout, the eliminator occupies a space that is a little larger than stock, but does not require a complete reconfiguration of the engine bay. By using many of the same mounting points as "stock", the installer can be familiar with the process quicker, making for an overall easier install. Most conventional "turbo kits" are completely re-invented with 100% new parts requiring a lot more disassembly and reassembly work. The installation technician's familiarity with the conventional "turbo kit" is often limited to prior experience of the same kit and installation quality can be effected by the amount of experience he has with that kit. By making the installation process very similar to the original part, the installation technician has an immediate jump on installation quality.
2. Reliability of the system - Even though the factory stock K03 and K04 turbo units themselves are known to fail often, the connection points utilizing factory fasteners (e.g. turbo to manifold bolts, turbo to downpipe bolts, oil return line, etc.) are 100% reliable, often lasting for 100Ks miles if untouched. By replacing the weakest link (the factory K03/K04 turbo) with the more reliable Garrett unit and by retaining the reliable factory connection points along with OEM gaskets and fasteners, we are able to offer a system that is overall more reliable than stock. Since most conventional "turbo kits" replace 100% of the factory connection points, gaskets, and fasteners with all "aftermarket" pieces, the ability for the system to "hold" itself together can only be indicated over time. Historical data shows that the most common "turbo kit" issues has to do with fasteners and gaskets.
3. Simplicity - The eliminators represent the epitome of keeping things simple. By only replacing the weak link of the turbo system (the factory turbo), the customer can retain the things that have been properly engineered from the factory and use it with the new turbo.
4. Cost - The Eliminator series upgrade kits cost far less than any comparable "turbo kit" that is capable of the same HP range. The lower cost of the Eliminators is only a side effect of literally "eliminating" the unnecessary elements of a typical "turbo upgrade". The typical "turbo kit" frivolously replaces and rearranges everything under the engine bay with all new parts in order to bolt up the new turbo. Since each and every replacement part comes at a cost, the overall cost adds up quickly, hence the reason for the expensive price tag of other turbo kits. The Eliminator series retains parts of the system that has been proven to be factory reliable and couples that with a powerful proven race bread turbo from the Garrett GT line. The resulting "package" can be hard to beat in terms of cost and overall value.
Other benefits:
Stock appearing and emissions friendly - If you are looking for flash, this setup is not for you. This system is really a Wolf in Sheep's clothing. Once the eliminator hardware is installed, it is very hard to detect visually. Through many of our "field tests", these turbos have easily slid through the radars of emissions tech undetected. These are adequate replacements for factory units in both emissions output testing and most visual compliance tests.
Serviceability - Because the eliminators only occupy mostly the original space designed for the turbo within the engine bay, the technicians will be more receptive of handling an engine with this type of upgrade. There is a less chance "scaring" away your usual service technician who normally would be visually overwhelmed by a "big turbo kit" with all new parts in a re-arranged engine bay.
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Does the Eliminator kit provide a complete "tuned" solution that will support the higher HP levels? No! Our commitment with each eliminator hardware kit is to provide the customer with 100% of the parts for an easy installation to build the "hardware" foundation for the high HP powerplant. The "high HP powerplant" can only be realized by supplementing the eliminator hardware with the proper "software" and/or "fueling solution" in order to support the higher boost/airflow generated by the eliminator series turbos. There is an array of ways to build the proper fueling solution for a "turbo kit" that can range from a piggyback fuel computer all the way to a fully programmable stand-alone ECU box.
We have successfully worked with TurboTec to build "Mika Tuned Fueling Kits" for many of the eliminator applications. Each fueling kit consists of an extensively recalibrated ECU reprogram for your stock ECU, matched to the proper injector set along with some supporting installation components. Please inquire about these "fueling kits" separately.

Other enhancements:
The Eliminator series, just like any other turbo will respond well to "enhancement" modifications. Restrictive catalytic converters and small downpipes can rob the turbo of its potential. Just like any other turbo, upgrading the exhaust flow and relieving backpressure before and after the exhaust system will result in a quicker spoolup as well as a wider torque band and higher peak HP.
Don't forget the turbo inlet hose! The turbo also has to inhale well in order to generate big HP. One downfall of the eliminators is it is often shipped with a "reducing" inlet adapter. This allows the factory inlet hose to connect to it easily. By removing the "restrictive" inlet adapter, you can unleash a great deal of potential built into the turbo. Don't be surprised if 30 to 40 WHP HP and 1000 rpms earlier spoolup is achieved with an upgraded inlet pipe. This has been proven many times over on many dyno sessions.
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