Anyway, for those of you that are interested, here are some pics of my progress:
The first step was to source a fuel injection head and this I did in the form of a complete 2002 Polo 1.6 head.
This is what the head looked like when I got it.
And this is what it looked like after I cleaned it up a bit.
The stock cam is in very good condition and notice that although the Polo head is hydraulic, it has 5 cam caps as appose to the usual 4.
The next step was to source a fuel injection tank... this one comes from a 2005 VeloCiti 1.6i, so it is still pretty new.
Then it was a case of lifting the rear of the car as high as we could get it and then dropping the rear axle so we could swap the tanks.
Along with the tank I also got the fuel lines from the same car. The fuel lines from the fuel injected Citi's are almost twice as big as the carb fuel lines. If you are using the fuel injection tank, these lines are a must.
The fuel gauge sender on the new tank is exactly the same as the old one, so the sender plug is a straight fit.
All that was left to do was route the power wires for the fuel pump. These I routed through the same grommet as the fuel gauge sender wires.
Once that was done, I turned my attention towards stripping the head off the old motor to check what the bores looked like. Initially the condition of the bores was going to be the deciding factor as to what size motor I was going to build.
After the head was off, it was time to lift the bottom end and gearbox out of the engine bay. For this I used a 1-ton engine hoist that I rented for R75. Because I didn't put the head back on, I used a tow strap to wrap around the engine and lift it out.
After lifting the motor out, I couldn't just leave it hanging there
so I needed to find a place to put it. So I got our trusty old wheelbarrow, put one of my sister's old tyres in and lowered the engine onto it. I then set about seperating the bottom end and gearbox, and removing the flywheel and clutch assembly.
Although I am changing them, the flywheel, clutch plate and pressure plate don't look too bad considering they have endured almost 170k kms of abuse.
While on the clutch / flywheel gearbox side of things, I managed to source an FZZ box complete with driveshafts and mountings. This box has 800km on it and the only reasons I got it was because it is new and I managed to sell my old DGG for the same price I paid for the FFZ.
Ok at this stage I was pretty much set on doing a 1900cc conversion so I went and got what I thought was a decent 1800 crank. Turns out it was one of the cast cranks and not a forged one like I wanted. Obviously this was not good enough so I sold it the next week for the same price I paid for it. No harm, no foul.
Then it was time to strip the bottom end and remove the old crank and pistons so the block could be sent to the engineers.
The old crank, big ends and mains were also in good condition considering how hard I drove the poor motor.
As with most things concerning cars, cleaning is always a necessity. There was alot of light brown build-up in the sump, so I thought it would be a good idea to clean it.
Then it was time to start sourcing the rest of the parts I needed. I managed to get the new type Citi Golf downpipes / branches for nothing. I will use this for now until I get a proper branch fitted.
By this stage and after doing lots of research, I decided that going 2.0 would be simpler and maybe better than going 1900, so I set about sourcing a 2.0 forged crank, which are apparently pretty rare and rather pricey. I managed to pick this one up for a really good price and it is in perfect condition. The big end and main journals are all standard and all they needed was a polish.
Here you can see a forged 1800 crank (top) and and my forged 2.0 crank (bottom).
I then bought Golf 3 GTi pistons because I though they would be correct, but it turns out the compression height of the pistons is too high so they would have stuck almost 3mm out the block. Plus the gudgeon pin size is 21mm and my conrods use 20mm gudgeon pins so they wouldn't have worked anyway.
Just to be on the safe side I sent the head in to have the valve guides and stem seals replaced. I opted to buy the valve stem seals from VW because they were cheap enough... R14 each.
At the same time I also bought a Victor Reinz bottom gasket set and head gasket. Apparently Victor Reinz is the OEM stuff that VW uses, so that is why I chose it.
So after finding out that the Golf 3 GTi pistons weren't going to work, I took them back and swapped them for a set of KS Kombi 2.6 pistons. I was also told that I would be lucky if I found KS big end and main bearings, so I guess I must be REALLY luck because I managed to find KS big ends and KS mains with the seperate thrust washers which are apparently better than the integrated ones.
I then ordered a new 210mm SACHS clutch kit, 210mm flywheel, Febi 2.0 oil pump, flywheel bolts, conrod bolts and nuts and obviously head bolts from Nico at Goldwagen.
I have only recently gotten around to mounting the fuel pump. I think I was delaying it because I had no idea where I was going to mount it. But I took a good look at it yesterday and found a good place to mount it... it is bolted onto the body, in between the fuel tank and the edge of the chassis by the right rear door.
On Friday I got all my stuff back from the engineers (Kempton Automotive) and this is the work they did for me:
1) Bore the block from 81mm to 82.5mm
2) Replace valve guides, valve stem seals and skim the head
3) Check crank and polish the journals
4) Machine the fuel pump lobe and distributor gear on the intermediate shaft
5) Clearance the block to allow the 2.0 crank to swing
6) Skim the old 200mm flywheel (my mistake)
7) Dummy assemble and the block and CC (check the compression ratio)
8 ) Check the small end bearings
Luckily the mods to the block were minimal, although the distributor gear on the intermediate shaft looks rather narrow now, but apparently it works.
And the compression ratio worked out to be 10:1 which is perfect.
The head after coming back from the engineers... clean.
The 82.5mm bored block with the 2.0 head gasket in place.
The machined intermediate shaft... notice the distributor gear.
That is all I have for now. I will take more pics when I start assembling the motor. Tomorrow the rotating assembly is going for balancing.
Thanks for a good laugh!!! 
