Mk4 rear door lock opens neither central nor with inside handle

[VAG Fan]

Hi all,

Some time ago, the lock on my Mk4's right rear door sporadically stopped working on the central locking. Sometimes I had to lock and/or unlock it by hand. But subsequently, the standard mechanical unlocking (pull the inside handle once to unlock and another time to open the door) also stopped working. If I pull on the inside handle, the pin moves up, but as soon as I release the handle, the pin falls back. I cannot hold it up by hand; it just springs back as soon as I release the handle.

So there's no way of opening the door.

1) Before I try to remove the door panel (with the door closed), do you have any suggestions on how I could unlock and open the door?
2) Has anyone ever removed a Mk4 rear door panel with the door closed?

Any help or suggestions would be much appreciated, thank you.

[VAG Fan]

Bump, hoping for any help.

[panic-mechanic]

Have no experience with that so sadly can offer no advise.

[VAG Fan]

Thanks, and no probs... IfWhen I find a solution, I'll post some feedback here.

[EX-DOHCTOR]

Your only option at this point is to remove the door panel from the inside. You'll need to strip off the usual hardware, like door handles etc and then try to unclip the panel screws and lift the door panel up and out.

I am assuming that the electric window still works? It's easier (only slightly so)with the window down.

Behind the door panel is the regulator panel, IIRC that is pop-riveted to the internal door frame, but you should have access to rods that open the door.
If not, you then have to drill out the rivets and remove the regulator panel, before you do that, put the window back up.

Once you've got the door open, use wide masking tape or duct tape to hold the glass in the up position.

It's easier with a second person helping.

Is this your daily?
Do you have a replacement lock and associated hardware on hand?

I only ask because with out the replacement kit, you can no longer close and lock the door with the old lock out.

[EX-DOHCTOR]

Actually another option is to take it to VW and let them sort it. Ultimately the quickest and easiest - but definitely not the cheapest.

[VAG Fan]

Hey, Dohc, thanks for the detailed reply.

Your only option at this point is to remove the door panel from the inside. You'll need to strip off the usual hardware, like door handles etc and then try to unclip the panel screws and lift the door panel up and out.

I figured as much. Hardware I should be able to figure out, but my biggest challenge, at this stage, is to get to the 2 torx screws at the bottom of the door panel. I'll have to use the other door as a sample.

I am assuming that the electric window still works? It's easier (only slightly so)with the window down.

Yes, the window is the one thing that still works. Thanks for the heads-up.

Behind the door panel is the regulator panel, IIRC that is pop-riveted to the internal door frame, but you should have access to rods that open the door.
If not, you then have to drill out the rivets and remove the regulator panel, before you do that, put the window back up.

Very valuable info! I really hope that once I get to the rods, I'll be able to open the door. If the fault is inside the lock itself, and it's jammed locked, that would leave me in a bad place.

Once you've got the door open, use wide masking tape or duct tape to hold the glass in the up position.

It's easier with a second person helping.

*sigh* The story of my life...

Is this your daily?
Do you have a replacement lock and associated hardware on hand?

I only ask because with out the replacement kit, you can no longer close and lock the door with the old lock out.

This is my daily indeed. But I still have my old Audi for a backup. (At this rate, I'll never sell it.)
Hmmm. At this stage, I have no spares, kit or hardware. I'm hoping, against all hope, that the lock can somehow be opened and is not irreparable. The original problem was probably in the micro-switches, and I should have repaired those while the lock was still working. But later, something obviously came undone, or jammed, for the internal, manual unlocking mechanism to have failed. I must confess I haven't even thought of a replacement kit. Do you have some details - who keeps it, price class?

You're right in your P.S., VW is the quickest and easiest (the classic adage: "Quick, cheap and proper... you can choose any two") - but between my wallet and my pride, that option is, at this stage, still disallowed.

[EX-DOHCTOR]

You should still be able to get all the hardware new from VW. Last time I got pricing, and that was a number of years ago, the door lock mechanism itself was quite pricey (IIRC R3500). Have your vehicle VIN with you when you call them.

Scrap yards will have parts a plenty. Condition will always be unknown though.

There used to be brilliant place in Pretoria Gardens, think it was called City Used Spares or City Used Auto.
They used to let you go with some one to the back to point out the parts you need off a donor vehicle and then they would strip the part off.
I don't have a number for them though.

Otherwise there is Bishops in Edenvale and Cartique in Boksburg.

Bishops normally strips vehicles as soon as they arrive so there should be plenty stock readily available from them.

[EX-DOHCTOR]

http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswagen/ ... y_carrier/

[VAG Fan]

Wow, what a gem - I now remember having seen the workshop-manuals webpage many moons ago, but I had completely forgotten about it.

I just had a look through the whole section on getting to, and removing, the lock.
http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswagen/ ... /removing/

But eish, things have certainly come a long way from a Mk 1. If I can figure out how that "spreader pin" works that holds the window pane to the regulator mechanism, then things should hopefully work out.

Still, that whole procedure is written for an open door. It remains to be seen whether I can actually open the door.

Thanks a stack, this is a very good start.

[Edit: PS: I remember City Used Spares from many years ago, hunting for a carb for my Mk 1 before converting it to a new Keihin, but I'm not sure whether they're still around.]

[EX-DOHCTOR]

Yeah, this whole process with the door closed is a whole different ball game.

It can be done, just be careful, doesn't take much for that door card to bend and you don't want those white stress crack in the door card plastics, or broken panel screws.