My 16v build, continued

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ob wan
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Re: My 16v build, continued

Post by ob wan »

THANAS wrote:At least reply to PPJs post after asking for help and receiving a detailed list of things to check. Some people.
:oops: sorry ne'
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Re: My 16v build, continued

Post by ob wan »

Image

Image

pretty happy, but will post dyno graph when done
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Re: My 16v build, continued

Post by ob wan »

still looks a bit untidy but cosmetics will follow when all is done

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Re: My 16v build, continued

Post by ob wan »

PapaJo wrote:Check the indents where the 3 dogs sit inside the shift drum. When you select to 4th the drum should not push over too far to prevent the dogs from popping out. Check that. Looking at the indents inside the shift drum you will see they are not in the centre as one side is slightly shorter. The inner drum on the shaft and outer shift drum need to align and 3 dogs sitting in the indents and when shifting over to 3rd and 4th the dogs should not pop out.

The spring clips behind the dogs should be in opposite directions and the ends must not be starting and ending on the same dog.

Was the inner drum of the 3rd/4th gear removed and refitted the same way as that could offset the shift drum?

Does the syncro have a small lip where the dogs fit in to prevent them to move in the direction of the shift drum movement?

When all gears and selectir forks are installed, the gate must line up on all for the finger to move back and forward without needing sideway movement.
speaking of which, everything was assembled as per above, will the 5th gear alignment shaft influence the paddle location?
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Re: My 16v build, continued

Post by PapaJo »

Yes, it will for the 5th gear. You adjust the tube threaded part next to the 5th gear that sits around the rod and adjust it that the gate is aligned for all the selector forks. Thereafter you lock the tube on the splines with the little lock plare to prevent the tube from turning and adjusting itself causing scratching or jumping out of 5th gear.
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Re: My 16v build, continued

Post by ob wan »

but that won't affect 4th to 3rd shifting?
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Re: My 16v build, continued

Post by PapaJo »

ob wan wrote:but that won't affect 4th to 3rd shifting?
No. 3rd and 4th is on their own selector fork. With selector drum removed and looking into the casing all the gates need to line up for the finger to pass without pushing the gate over to find it. Another thing to check is if the ends of the selector fork that fits in the drum and pushing over to the teeth on the gears had minimal play. If the ends are worn thin it will cause play and drum not engaging properly on the gear teeth.
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Re: My 16v build, continued

Post by ob wan »

soon as I'm finished with my current project i'll strip the box out and open it up again, think you might be spot on with the wear on the forks...

what is the difference between the syncro rings (the brass ones I assume)? I noticed they have different part numbers stamped but appear to be the same size

btw, thanks again for all the info PPJ
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Re: My 16v build, continued

Post by PapaJo »

Different part numbers due to having fine grooves on the inside taper and others are smooth on the taper. The fine grooved ones wear off and causes play on the syncro. When syncro is on gear taper it should not have a gap smaller than 1mm between the bottom of the syncro and the teeth on the gear. I will check for pictures showing the difference.
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Re: My 16v build, continued

Post by ob wan »

next mod

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Re: My 16v build, continued

Post by ob wan »

no more valve cover breather, was a waste of filler rod..... so I welded in a piece of manifold

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no more oil all over the engine bay
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Re: My 16v build, continued

Post by ob wan »

bought a brand new ffz from Goldwagen! me sooooo happy, now to strip the current one to transfer the diff with arp's, i also have all my serpentine belt accessories aswell, when all that is done, then can i focus on the roll cage
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Re: My 16v build, continued

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new xlint 2.8mm diaphragm pressure plate is in, attached to the new ffz with arp diff bolts, just waiting on my refurbed rim then i shall post results
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Re: My 16v build, continued

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rim beyond repair, so i found a set of 15's and got given 2 brand new dunlop semi's for free, all i can say is WOW!!!!
nearly poo'ed myself with the new setup
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Re: My 16v build, continued

Post by ob wan »

finally have my serpentine belt setup on, need to post some pics but i drove over my phone
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Re: My 16v build, continued

Post by panic-mechanic »

Car so fast it killed your phone.
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Re: My 16v build, continued

Post by King8v »

Awesome build thus far :hurray: , i envy ppl that have the tools, time and know how to do all these things themselves. Makes life so much easier than having to deal with crunts who claim to be mechanics
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Re: My 16v build, continued

Post by ob wan »

King8v wrote:Awesome build thus far :hurray: , i envy ppl that have the tools, time and know how to do all these things themselves. Makes life so much easier than having to deal with crunts who claim to be mechanics
thanks

just a little update:

the clutch is awesome! very little to no shudder at pull away, slippage is completely gone, the pedal feels slightly harder but hardly noticeable

atf in the gearbox i think was a mistake, shifting is harder than expected (new FFZ)... any input?

semi's are the bomb!!! those things grip

now to fit the poly bushes...
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Re: My 16v build, continued

Post by panic-mechanic »

you don't put ATF in a manual box for a reason. Castrol BOT 402 or even engine oil does a better job.
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Re: My 16v build, continued

Post by Unobeat »

panic-mechanic wrote:Car so fast it killed your phone.
:lol: :lol: :lol:
THANAS wrote:Mix them together to create Shellstrol, and then mix that with Winstrol to create the ultimate, maximum performance oil for your engine.
panic-mechanic wrote:When I build engines and do stuff like this I do it when there is nobody else around, No distractions, No phone nothing so that you don't forget what you should be doing. It's the little things that make them run right. Anybody can slap a basic bottom end together. that is the easy bit. It's all the little things that makes these builds a success or not.
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Re: My 16v build, continued

Post by Unobeat »

King8v wrote:Awesome build thus far :hurray: , i envy ppl that have the tools, time and know how to do all these things themselves. Makes life so much easier than having to deal with crunts who claim to be mechanics
:iagree:
THANAS wrote:Mix them together to create Shellstrol, and then mix that with Winstrol to create the ultimate, maximum performance oil for your engine.
panic-mechanic wrote:When I build engines and do stuff like this I do it when there is nobody else around, No distractions, No phone nothing so that you don't forget what you should be doing. It's the little things that make them run right. Anybody can slap a basic bottom end together. that is the easy bit. It's all the little things that makes these builds a success or not.
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Re: My 16v build, continued

Post by missioner »

panic-mechanic wrote:you don't put ATF in a manual box for a reason. Castrol BOT 402 or even engine oil does a better job.
Regular HP 80W-90 gear oil is the best. Any brand preference is irrelevant, just get a decent quality one.
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Re: My 16v build, continued

Post by panic-mechanic »

Bot 402 is a full synthetic sae 75w85 oil which basically eliminates that cold 2nd gear scratch that golf link boxes are so fond of.
It is the only castrol product that I use and it is really that good.
There are lots of guys in the racing community that uses engine oil and swears by it.
But NOBODY recommends ATF in a golf gearbox.
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Re: My 16v build, continued

Post by ob wan »

changed it to 75w90 that i had here and it's much better now...
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Re: My 16v build, continued

Post by ob wan »

so the rev counter started going crazy and when stopping at a robot, the water level beep goes off....
removed the dizzy cap and found it flooded with oil, got new dizzy shaft seal for R60 @ GW, hope this solves the problem
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