Hi Bud
It seems like the product was not shaken properly. Did you shake before use?
The CarChem iron remover does separate when standing for more than 3 hours, so its highly recommended to shake well before use.
Car is looking good btw
Hi Bud
ahhhh! . ..... that could be the problem cause I didn't shake it at allDjin wrote:Hi Bud
It seems like the product was not shaken properly. Did you shake before use?
The CarChem iron remover does separate when standing for more than 3 hours, so its highly recommended to shake well before use.
Car is looking good btw
Just want to try clear up something....NHB_R wrote:Question
Can i buff polish/wax off using the shield da polish machine?
Or only by hand?
If it can be done by machine too, what pads should be used?
Thanks
Sent from my iPhone
I agree with Pravin - the car is looking goodRsi huntered wrote:ahhhh! . ..... that could be the problem cause I didn't shake it at allDjin wrote:Hi Bud
It seems like the product was not shaken properly. Did you shake before use?
The CarChem iron remover does separate when standing for more than 3 hours, so its highly recommended to shake well before use.
Car is looking good btw
I also used bought the turtle wax exterior plastic solution and used it...... Very good product
and the optimum spray wax this is going to be my new go to protection going forward..... The results of this product is just amazing ( thanks to Lawrence for the heads up on the product )
and thanks for the compliment Pravin I'm loving that wet look on the cars 18 hours well spent
Hi budjippo wrote:So after reading Lawrence's Aventador post I was curious about wheel cleaning.
The wheels and tires are cleaned and dressed before the car is washed. Won't the soap and water affect the finish on the tyres?
Makes senselawrence wrote:Hi budjippo wrote:So after reading Lawrence's Aventador post I was curious about wheel cleaning.
The wheels and tires are cleaned and dressed before the car is washed. Won't the soap and water affect the finish on the tyres?
I washed the wheels before the car and dressed the tires later once the car was back in the garage.
Sorry if it wasn't clear in the write up
Yes there are. And I will try give you my opinion on them.GaVeN wrote:My question comes to a long lasting coating I can apply, that can help with some longevity.
Perhaps I am misunderstanding this, but if you do any form of paint correction (abrasive polishing) there will be NO wax or sealant left on the paint, hence no beading.GaVeN wrote:The waxes after some paint correction/"top-up" care just does not seem to keep that beading effect after say 5-6 washes
Yes you get ceramic (silica or sometimes called 'glass') based coatings, some use polymer based resins, like Opticoat, and some are simply marketed as a coating, when in fact they are simply just sealants. In terms of their hydrophobic properties, again generally speaking, coatings are superior to waxes and sealants, but as already mentioned this is not always the case - for example, Fusso Coat (a wax or sealant, not a true coating) beads like a mofo, Sonax's Polymer Net Shield (a sealant) beads just as ridiculously as some coatings) and, bear in mind that as already mentioned, beading is not necessarily a good thing (water spots).GaVeN wrote:I have seen a lot of ceramic coatings that repel water amazingly, and read up on a few other products.
I haven't yet used a Gyeon product I didn't likeGaVeN wrote:What can you guys recommend to try out? Gyeon Q2m seems to be an extremely good product for what I want.
Now, there is different products, for different steps(As I understand them).
Gyeon Q2m cure: For a quick way to protect for a good finish without full correction.
Gyeon Q2m prime: For protection after correction to provide the finish I'm after
Gyeon Q2m MOHS: Hard coating, that gives optimum protection, and has the best water repelant features.
Would I have to do the Prime, and then MOHS, or can MOHS be done after correction?
Would there be a need for a wax after correction, the Q2m, or can I apply straight after correction?
Any other similar products? Experience with something like this? Any do's/don'ts?
http://www.vwclub.co.za/forum/viewtopic ... 0&t=190224lawrence wrote:OK so let me preface this post by saying I am offering my opinions and am not looking to 'knock' anyone else's.... these are my view points on coatings, as anyone of my previous customers' will attest to - it is pretty much the same conversation I would have had with them regarding coatings during our 'pre-detail' chat.....
Cost per month of protection.Kyle wrote:Gyeon quartz is R795, and that is enough for two cars, which ive personally tested and proven. Yes it is more expensive than using a normal sealant, but more than a year later and it's still on my paint (Daily driven, parked outside in the sun/rain during the day at work)lawrence wrote:I would say that if/when the price drops to something more easily swallowed by our detailing market, then yes coatings may be more common than say hybrids or sealants, but I don't think they will ever replace them completely.... Also, they are not some magic bullet that means you no longer need to maintain your paint properly.... so as always, customer education is key if you truly want to 'do right' by the customer....Kyle wrote:But - I honestly do believe that coatings are the future.
Going through international threads, they hardly ever talk about applying sealants...
The water becomes very muddied when you have people promoting a coating as a 'maintenance free' invisible shield that will protect your paint from acid rain etc etc
I know you don't like the idea of a coating, but if you can offer someone superior protection, then why not?
I apply a wax over it for a little bit of extra shine, it's quite common practice
Gyeon Quartz R795 a bottle, 2 cars per bottle, R397.50/application. Let's work on the 12 months durability you have gotten (which is pretty much what the manufacturer claims) so that is
R33.12/month to protect.
Now compare that to Collinte 845. Its cost R250 for 473ml and (this is open to debate, so we can tweak the numbers if need be) I reckon at most you would use 25ml per application. So that is 18.92 application per car, or R13.21/application. This won't last you a year though.... but it should easily last 4 months (I have seen longer, but let's err on the side of caution)... so you will need 3 applications per year equating to R39.64 or
R3.30/month to protect
And this assumes that the detailer 'sells' the coating to the consumer at cost - the likelihood of that happening are open to debate. Of course then there is the application time that the detailer will charge, which will push the cost per application up significantly. So, if I was the consumer, to get 10 times the amount of money out of my pocket (probably more like 20 times once the application cost from the detailer is included), there has to be real VALUE in the coating.... where could that value come from?
Protective abilities?
A coating - has the capability to provide a harder (more scratch resistant) surface than some OEM paint jobs.....for example, if I owned a Subaru.... I'd probably coat it as they are notoriously soft and scratch if you look at them funny.....If I owned a Mercedes with their Cerami-clear clear coat, the increased scratch resistance becomes more of a moot point. And even more of a moot point if you actually look after your car (in terms of washing/drying) anyway.... see 'Maintenance' below.
There is no way that a - let's call it a 'wax' (what most people think of as 'carnuba or 'show car wax' or a 'boutique wax, but in reality is actually in this day and age is actually probably a hybrid - i.e. blend of 'wax' and 'sealant') - is going to offer more scratch resistance than a coating. Same for a sealant. The coating wins, hands down...
When it comes to its ability to protect from other hazards such as bird bombs, etching, chemical crap and things like (overseas) road salt etc...things like the Collinite range will come damn close at an absolute fraction of the price.
Self-cleaning abilities?
Generally speaking coatings, due to their highly hydrophobic nature, will tend to win here. There are however some LSP's such as Sonax PNS, Soft 99 Fusso, that offer ridiculously great water behavior so perhaps the coating is the winner, but not at a ratio of 1:10
Maintenance?
Coatings still need to be maintained - i.e. to have 'boosters' applied to them, which adds to the cost... You will still need to wash the car gently with decent tools and products, but you will often hear how the consumer is told 'this coating is a permanent barrier for your paint and you can wash it with sandpaper'<-- or course I am exaggerating but you get the idea....it still needs to be cared for.
Looks?
Again this is so subjective and unless you are entering a show n shine competition, in my opinion, is the least important quality to me of ANY LSP.... because the LSP is.... the.... last step PROTECTION.
But, you will hear that some provide a very glassy look, some like Modesta are raved about in terms of that wet look (but then we are not talking R400/application) some darken paint, some look like unicorns tears....blah blah blah.... beauty is in the eye of the beholder.... all I do know is if you are having to top your coating to improve the look of it, at the expense of its self cleaning abilities, you are negating the '10 times cost outlay'. Rather just find a 'beauty wax' at a fraction of the price.
Ease of 'repairs' to the paint?
Wanna fix anything on the paint the coating within the year that it is holding up, it has to be polished off - this will be more costly than polishing off a coat of wax/sealant and re-applying.
At the end of it's 1 year life cycle, the coating will need to be polished off to be re-applied. This means either the owner needs to invest in the time/tools/equipment to DIY it, or, he has to pay a detailer to do it for him. At the end of the 1 year, you could just re-apply another coat of 845. The coating loses IMO as the problem is exacerbated by coatings that tout 2 or more years worth of protection, as by that time, you car WILL need to be polished (I would think at least by the end of year 2, even the most careful of washing will result in enough wash marring / swirls etc that a polish is required) and at that point you simply polish off whatever protection the coating may have offered in years 3 or 4....
So ja, to summarize.... I still maintain that there is a very small market for coatings, even more so in the detailing climate that is South Africa.
Lambchop wrote:If you a detailer charging clients and you not offering coatings as an added option then you behind the times
How so.... I think if you are simply punting coatings because they are the 'latest greatest' thing (and I am not saying you are - we are taking 'in general') then you would be doing your customer a disservice by giving them something they don't necessarily need - they may, in which case, coat away....
Would I coat a customers car if that is what they wanted - of course. But with all of my customers, I try and guide them on how to best spend their money to get and keep their car looking how they want it to.... most of them do not see the ten or twentyfold increase in cost as 'money well spent'.... But hell, most people don't see the value in a detail, never mind a coating..... so like I said earlier, until the market is ready for it.... I don't think coatings are 'it'.....
I don't even wash my own daily drive that often....Lambchop wrote:I seriously don't have time to wax my car every 2-3 weeks.
A wax that only got me 2 or 3 weeks of durability would have no place in my garage that's for sure!!!!!
Perhaps you should try some Collinite
I have to disagree.... here is a thread about Collinite, DNA have some testing going on for their range (and all the review seems to be honest and unbiased), Solo is selling Gyeon stuff, Autofinesse are a sponsor selling their range, as are Crazy Detailer, who as you know are all about 'variety'. All of the detailers use all kinds of products....Lambchop wrote:I find this forum very one sided when it comes to products .... As the saying goes. Don't mock it till you have tried it ..
You can look at any of the options at Crazy Detailer http://www.crazydetailer.co.za/index.ph ... kmdjj47011 Of the ones available, I have used the Mothers Power Metal which is really great as well as the Menzerna Polishing Cream (which is more aggressive than the Mothers option). I have not used the Autoglym stuff.Rsi huntered wrote:Howzit guys.....
What metal product would you suggest using on an Harley Bike......
There is alot of chrome and less paint.
any suggestions in something decent.
thanks Lawrence..... will try out the option one above also need to stock up on Shampoo to will get this stuff ontimelawrence wrote:You can look at any of the options at Crazy Detailer http://www.crazydetailer.co.za/index.ph ... kmdjj47011 Of the ones available, I have used the Mothers Power Metal which is really great as well as the Menzerna Polishing Cream (which is more aggressive than the Mothers option). I have not used the Autoglym stuff.Rsi huntered wrote:Howzit guys.....
What metal product would you suggest using on an Harley Bike......
There is alot of chrome and less paint.
any suggestions in something decent.
Or you can look at Pristine Detailing. http://www.pristinedetailing.co.za/meta ... xhtml.html I have not tried the M1 polish they have.
Another option which is readily available at places like Game/Builders Warehouse/Makro/Midas etc is Meguiars NXT All Metal Polish
And lastly Autosol works pretty well too.
Why make things easy for yourself when you can make them incredibly difficult and complicated.
Why make things easy for yourself when you can make them incredibly difficult and complicated.
Thanks alot.......got it..... i read it as only for the door.....lawrence wrote:Well Mike's suggestion of 6 pads is broken down as:
1 for the bonnet
1 for the roof and boot lid
2 for driver's side - i.e. 1 for driver's front door and front fender, and one for driver's side rear door and rear fender
2 for passenger side - i.e. 1 for passenger's front door and front fender, and one for passenger's side rear door and rear fender
Make sense?
Remember its about the AREA you can cover with 1 pad....so he has tried to break the car up into 6 equal sized areas (very roughly of course), and it doesn't necessarily take into account the different sized (diameter) pads you will need (which will be determined by the shape of the panel - concave panels don't allow larger diameter pads to make contact with all the paint properly, an A-pillar is very difficult to polish with a large pad, a front bumper has to many sharp body lines to efficiently polish it without running over these raised edges etc etc).
The more work you try make the pad do, the more heat builds up, the more polish will 'clump together', exacerbating the heat issue, and it spirals out of control until the foam pad separates from its velcro backing, rendering it useless.... and of course, all the while the finish you get with the pad gets worse and worse as more 'residue' [spent polishing oils/lubricants and abraded paint] scours the paint....
Lambchop wrote:If you a detailer charging clients and you not offering coatings as an added option then you behind the times
I don't even wash my own daily drive that often....Lambchop wrote:I seriously don't have time to wax my car every 2-3 weeks.
I have to disagree.... here is a thread about Collinite, DNA have some testing going on for their range (and all the review seems to be honest and unbiased), Solo is selling Gyeon stuff, Autofinesse are a sponsor selling their range, as are Crazy Detailer, who as you know are all about 'variety'. All of the detailers use all kinds of products....Lambchop wrote:I find this forum very one sided when it comes to products .... As the saying goes. Don't mock it till you have tried it ..
Happy to see you still think of me Lawrence [/quote]Lambchop wrote:Lambchop wrote:If you a detailer charging clients and you not offering coatings as an added option then you behind the times
How so.... I think if you are simply punting coatings because they are the 'latest greatest' thing (and I am not saying you are - we are taking 'in general') then you would be doing your customer a disservice by giving them something they don't necessarily need - they may, in which case, coat away....
Would I coat a customers car if that is what they wanted - of course. But with all of my customers, I try and guide them on how to best spend their money to get and keep their car looking how they want it to.... most of them do not see the ten or twentyfold increase in cost as 'money well spent'.... But hell, most people don't see the value in a detail, never mind a coating..... so like I said earlier, until the market is ready for it.... I don't think coatings are 'it'.....
I don't even wash my own daily drive that often....Lambchop wrote:I seriously don't have time to wax my car every 2-3 weeks.
A wax that only got me 2 or 3 weeks of durability would have no place in my garage that's for sure!!!!!
Perhaps you should try some Collinite
I have to disagree.... here is a thread about Collinite, DNA have some testing going on for their range (and all the review seems to be honest and unbiased), Solo is selling Gyeon stuff, Autofinesse are a sponsor selling their range, as are Crazy Detailer, who as you know are all about 'variety'. All of the detailers use all kinds of products....Lambchop wrote:I find this forum very one sided when it comes to products .... As the saying goes. Don't mock it till you have tried it ..
Hi bud, not sure about any shops here in CPT that stock it but CD stock it:iLy wrote:Anyone know where I could get Shield Heavy Duty vinyl and plastic cleaner from here in Cape Town?